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Thankfully, genuine mahogany wood stands up well to anything nature can throw at it okay, almost anything. No guarantees in the event of a tornado. Being made up of mostly heartwood, mahogany is naturally dense and highly resistant to rot and decay. Furthermore, genuine mahogany wood is highly resistant to shrinkage thanks to its nearly ratio of radial to tangential shrinkage.

With resistance against both physical stress and natural elements, mahogany for boats is a smart choice if you aim to maintain the structure and quality of your boat decking for decades to come. Looking beyond practicality, Wood Used For Boat Construction Oil the most exciting part of using mahogany wood for boats is the luxe feel that it creates. The timeless elegance of genuine mahogany decking is guaranteed to give a classic, refined look that will be the subject of envy and admiration on the waterways.

Further, mahogany readily accepts stains, finishes and oils � making it easily customisable to your preferred aesthetic. Genuine mahogany wood is notoriously easy to work with, both with hand and machine tools.

For this reason, mahogany is an ideal material to cater to the more finicky specifics of boat building. You can also rest easy knowing that genuine mahogany sourced from Green World Lumber is sustainably sourced from environmentally friendly. Contact us today to discuss genuine mahogany wood solutions for your boat. Have A Question? Blog Contact Us Gallery. Request Quote. Toggle Nav. After this the strongback is superfluous. The plywood is epoxy coated, faired, and fiberglassed.

All the unit operations of epoxy use have been employed so far. There are a number of tricks that can make the epoxy work go easier. For example, the plywood frames could have been coated and sanded even prior to cutting from 4x8 sheets. Plywood planking should have been coated and sanded on the inside before the planking is attached. Some designs use molded chines rather than chine logs. Here, biaxial tape would be ideal to attach adjacent planking.

It is important to remember that there is no one right way to do most anything except for correct mix ratios! Build it in your head first and you'll think of a lot of short cuts that work. In a way this uses plywood in hull construction in almost the reverse order of the frame, stringer, planking building method.

Here the panels are cut to the correct shape and wired together with soft copper wire through small holes cut in adjoining planking edges. Sometimes a frame or two are used to facilitate in the bending and joining of the panels.

Once wired together the joints are glued by applying large epoxy fillets to the inside edges. The wire is removed and the outside edges are taped with glass cloth and epoxy. Several bulkheads are added and stringers may be glued to the interior panels to increase stiffness. This construction method, also called sewn seam construction, lends itself very well to small boat construction where the internal structure of frames and stringers Wood Used For Boat Construction Office are not necessary.

Lately several large production boats 56 feet have been built on the West Coast using this method. The commercial builder of one of these made his own plywood on a 10 by 60 foot vacuum table.

Interestingly, many huge fiberglass boats are partially constructed using this method bows and sterns are still made in a standard fiberglass mold. Some designing skill is required to take a three dimensional concept and reduce it to a two dimensional drawing that can be laid out on plywood so that edges meet when the panels are cut and sewn together.

The first time builder should purchase plans rather than suffer the frustration involved in ruining several sheets of plywood "trying to get it right. Often, there are also ads for kits where the panels are already cut. Epoxy coating and perhaps even fiberglassing the panels prior to assembly will save lots of time in this construction method.

Learning to make the "no sand" interior fillets described is a must. Removing the copper wire can be tricky. Some builders fillet right over it and then cut it off flush on the outside. Here it becomes part of the boat. We heard of one builder who hooked the wire up to a car battery for a second or two and then pulled the red-hot wire out with a pair of pliers.

We like the idea of making small fillets using Quick Cure 5 and wood flour, or alternately using SilverTip EZ-Fillet wood flour putty every six inches along the inside seam. After a few minutes the wires can easily be removed and the regular fillet applied. Talk to your plans designer and see what he recommends.

Many people believe that traditional lapstrake construction makes the most beautiful boat of all. They long for a more modern method that produces a light, strong boat without the maintenance problems of the traditional lapstrake boat.

Basically, plywood is cut to the proper shape and one edge of each plank is beveled. These planks are attached to temporary mold frames and permanently attached to the stem and transom. The boat is usually built upside down with the very bottom planks applied first. Successive planks are laid on these with about a half inch overlap.

The laps are epoxy glued. Planking continues in this fashion to the gunnels. The result is a lightweight, stiff boat. The stiffness comes from the doubling at the laps combined with the bent planks.

So far, only small boats have been built using this method. A chief aesthetic advantage of this style is that it allows for more roundness in the finished hull than other plywood methods. A possible disadvantage is that it is more tedious than sewn seam construction. We can't conceive of building a boat in this method without epoxy coating and fiberglassing the plywood panels prior to cutting the planks.

The boat would be impossible to fiberglass once assembled. Doing it first means that except for the cut plywood edges the boat is essentially "epoxied" before it is even assembled. We'd seal these after assembly and use fillets to round them into the adjacent planks. There are several books available on glued lap construction. Check in the various boating magazines to find them. Buy a good design.

As much as in stitch and glue construction, cutting and beveling the planks is critical to achieving good results. Strip planking has been used to construct boats with lengths from eight feet prams to huge power and sailboats. The most common strip planked boats built today are canoes in the fifteen to eighteen foot range. Strip planking readily allows the builder to make compound curved hulls even in shorter lengths. Strip planking is simply the edge gluing of long strips over temporary mold frames.

Most often these are male mold frames although some advantage is possible using female mold frames. The strips are cut somewhat longer than the boat so that they are long enough to be bent around the curve of the mold. Larger boats use scarfed strips to achieve the proper length.

Western red cedar is often used to build canoes and smaller boats. It is lightweight and attractive lending itself well to bright finished hulls. Redwood, Alaskan yellow cedar, Sitka spruce, and fir are also used.

Several companies are now marketing veneer faced end grain balsa strips. This material shows promise for boats over twenty feet. It is lighter than solid material for a given thickness.

It is also weaker and much more expensive. Because it is weaker more exotic fiberglass fabrics must be used to build strength. This further adds to the cost of using this material and adds enough additional weight to largely offset its lower density when used for smaller boats. In larger boats where lightweight is the ultimate goal and the money is there to buy it, balsa strip is worth considering. In a way the smaller strip planked boats may be thought of as wood cored fiberglass composite boats, as the sheathing is structural.

Here the strips are thin and edge contact area is low enough that the strips need the structural reinforcement of cloth on the inside as well as the outside. As boats get larger strip thickness and glue surface area increase. The overall strength coming from the glued edges begins to predominate and the structural importance of the sheathing becomes less important.

Still, most builders of large strip plank boats use a healthy layer of reinforcing material on the outside of the hull. Some large strip planked boats use a double layer of diagonal veneer planking see section on cold molding. Except for scarfing and edge gluing not much epoxy is used in strip planking until the hull is completed.

One neat trick when canoe building is to use Quick Cure to glue the butt ends to the side strips when closing the "football". The outside of a strip-planked boat is faired and fiberglassed before taking the hull off a male mold. In female molding the inside may be fiberglassed and ribs molded in place prior to demolding the hull.

Since the sheathing is an important structural part of strip plank boats the designer's recommendations should be followed when selecting sheathing materials. The term "Cold Molding" was coined to differentiate the process from hot molding.

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