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31.01.2021Author: admin

Boat building - Wikipedia

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This introduction discusses why these changes have taken place and what is expected in the future. It provides an overview of the different types of wood frame constructions and the various issues that arise with these projects including environmental impacts as well as solutions and high level strategies to consider.

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Its abrasion resistance varies according to the hardness and density of the wood and it can deteriorate if fresh water or marine organisms are allowed to penetrate the wood. Woods such as Teak , Totara and some cedars have natural chemicals which prevent rot whereas other woods, such as Pinus radiata , will rot very quickly. The hull of a wooden boat usually consists of planking fastened to frames and a keel.

Keel and frames are traditionally made of hardwoods such as oak while planking can be oak but is more often softwood such as pine , larch or cedar. Plywood is especially popular for amateur construction but only marine ply using waterproof glues and even laminates should be used. Cheap construction plywood often has voids in the interior layers and is not suitable to boat building as the voids trap moisture and accelerate rot as well as physically weaken the plywood.

Varnish and Linseed oil should not be used on the exterior of a hull for waterproofing. Only boiled linseed oil should be used on a boat and only in the interior as it has very little water resistance but it is very easy to apply and has a pleasant smell.

Note that used linseed rags should not be left in a pile as they can catch fire. A valuable year-old waka Maori canoe caught fire in New Zealand in June when restorers left rags piled overnight.

Raw linseed oil is not suited to boats as it stays damp and oily for a long time. Mildew will grow well on raw linseed oil treated timber but not on boiled linseed oil. With tropical species, extra attention needs to be taken to ensure that the wood is indeed FSC -certified. Before teak is glued the natural oil must be wiped off with a chemical cleaner, otherwise the joint will fail. Cold-moulded refers to a type of building one-off hulls using thin strips of wood applied to a series of forms at degree angles to the centerline.

This method is often called double-diagonal because a minimum of two layers is recommended, each occurring at opposing degree angles. The "hot-moulded" method of building boats, which used ovens to heat and cure the resin, has not been widely used since World War II; and now almost all curing is done at room temperature. Either used in sheet or alternatively, plate [18] for all-metal hulls or for isolated structural members.

It is strong, but heavy despite the fact that the thickness of the hull can be less. The material rusts unless protected from water this is usually done by means of a covering of paint.

Modern steel components are welded or bolted together. As the welding can be done very easily with common welding equipment , and as the material is very cheap, it is a popular material with amateur builders. Also, amateur builders which are not yet well established in building steel ships may opt for DIY construction kits. If steel is used, a zinc layer is often applied to coat the entire hull. It is applied after sandblasting which is required to have a cleaned surface and before painting.

The painting is usually done with lead paint Pb 3 O 4. Optionally, the covering with the zinc layer may be left out, but it is generally not recommended. Zinc anodes also need to be placed on the ship's hull. Until the mids, steel sheets were riveted together. Aluminum and aluminum alloys are used both in sheet form for all-metal hulls or for isolated structural members.

Many sailing spars are frequently made of aluminium after The material requires special manufacturing techniques, construction tools and construction skills. Aluminium is very expensive in most countries and it is usually not used by amateur builders. While it is easy to cut, aluminium is difficult to weld, and also requires heat treatments such as precipitation strengthening for most applications.

Galvanic corrosion below the waterline is a serious concern, particularly in marinas where there are other conflicting metals. Aluminium is most commonly found in yachts and power boats that are not kept permanently in the water. Aluminium yachts are particularly popular in France. A relatively expensive metal used only very occasionally in boatbuilding is cupronickel. Arguably the ideal metal for boat hulls, cupronickel is reasonably tough, highly resistant to corrosion in seawater, and is because of its copper content a very effective antifouling metal.

Cupronickel may be found on the hulls of premium tugboats , fishing boats and other working boats ; and may even be used for propellers and propeller shafts. Fiberglass glass-reinforced plastic or GRP is typically used for production boats because of its ability to reuse a female mould as the foundation for the shape of the boat.

The resulting structure is strong in tension but often needs to be either laid up with many heavy layers of resin-saturated fiberglass or reinforced with wood or foam in order to provide stiffness. GRP hulls are largely free of corrosion though not normally fireproof. These can be solid fiberglass or of the sandwich cored type, in which a core of balsa , foam or similar material is applied after the outer layer of fiberglass is laid to the mould, but before the inner skin is laid.

This is similar to the next type, composite, but is not usually classified as composite, since the core material in this case does not provide much additional strength.

It does, however, increase stiffness, which means that less resin and fiberglass cloth can be used in order to save weight. Most fibreglass boats are currently made in an open mould, with fibreglass and resin applied by hand hand-lay-up method. Some are now constructed by vacuum infusion where the fibres are laid out and resin is pulled into the mould by atmospheric pressure.

This can produce stronger parts with more glass and less resin, but takes special materials and more technical knowledge. Older fibreglass boats before were often not constructed in controlled temperature buildings leading to the widespread problem of fibreglass pox, where seawater seeped through small holes and caused delamination.

The name comes from the multiude of surface pits in the outer gelcoat layer which resembles smallpox. Sometimes the problem was caused by atmospheric moisture being trapped in the layup during construction in humid weather. Fast cargo vessels once were copper-bottomed to prevent being slowed by marine fouling. GRP and ferrocement hulls are classic composite hulls, the term "composite" applies also to plastics reinforced with fibers other than glass.

Just selecting wood to build with is an art, as there are numerous criteria to meet. The best wood should be cut only in winter to minimize the retention of moisture and microorganisms.

It should then be air-dried in a climate-controlled environment for as long as possible�many months at a minimum. The lumber should also be carefully milled to produce planks and pieces with the wood grain properly aligned to carry anticipated loads in the boat.

Even if you use the best fasteners silicon bronze screws and bolts are preferred, though Monel is technically superior what ultimately limits the strength of a plank-on-frame boat is not the wood it is made from, but the fasteners holding it together.

This weakness manifests itself in various ways. First, because they are made from many different pieces, and in particular because so many plank seams are permanently submerged, plank-on-frame boats are apt to leak. Many are continually taking on water when afloat, and normally the only variable is the rate at which water is coming aboard.

Invariably this increases when conditions get worse. I once sailed across the North Atlantic aboard a plank-on-frame schooner�one time we almost sank; the other time we did though, fortunately, this was in a river on the other side.

Plank-on-frame boats also often have deck leaks. The problem here is that wood in the deck is constantly swelling and shrinking as it gets wet and dries out. If the deck has open seams, all this expanding and contracting is apt to create gaps somewhere. Even with painted canvas covering the seams, or with a solid plywood deck sealed in epoxy, there are again many fasteners securing hardware, each offering a potential route for water intrusion.

Other structures sprouting from the deck�deckhouses, hatches, raised gunwales, etc. World-famous small-boat cruiser Larry Pardey waters the deck of his boat, Taleisin , to keep the planks swollen tight. Larry is a master boatwright he built Taleisin himself and maintains his boats scrupulously.

Finally, plank-on-frame boats can be a bear to maintain. All that wood, above the water and below, needs to be either painted or varnished on a regular basis. Leaks must be policed and stanched if possible. Moist areas in the structure must be sought out, constantly monitored for rot, and replaced if the rot gets out of hand.

Most, however, like Moitessier, would much prefer to just go sailing. Plank-on-frame boats still have a strong cult following and a relatively large number of older wooden yachts are sailed and maintained by devoted owners. But the most exciting wooden boatbuilding these days is done with composite wood-epoxy construction. The key ingredient is modern epoxy, which is not only a tenacious adhesive, but is also highly elastic and nearly impermeable to water.

Epoxy also protects the wood from hungry creatures that want to eat it. Furthermore, a wood-epoxy hull forms a one-piece monocoque structure that cannot leak unless punctured. In most cases, to improve abrasion and impact resistance, the hull and deck are also sheathed in one or more layers of fiberglass cloth. The result is a boat with many of the virtues of fiberglass, with the added benefits of built-in insulation, plus all the fuzzy romantic feelings inspired by a genuine wood finish.

There are many ways to construct a wood-epoxy boat. One could, for example, build a wood-epoxy plank-on-frame vessel, but this would be labor intensive and the boat would be needlessly heavy and thick. In practice, there are three basic approaches�strip-plank construction, sheet plywood construction, and so-called cold-molded construction. Each has many variations, and to some extent different techniques can be combined in a single hull.

In a simple strip-plank hull the frame is an important part of the structure, and the strip planks, which are narrow�with a square section shape, are both attached to the frame and edge-nailed to each other. Boats were often built like this in the traditional manner and are still built without being encapsulated in epoxy.

In more modern variations, there is more reliance on epoxy, fiberglass sheathing, and internal accommodations structures including bulkheads to support the hull, with framing reduced to a minimum. Some of these vessels are essentially fiberglass boats with solid wood cores.

Strip-planked wood-epoxy hulls are probably the most common type built today, as they are generally the most cost effective. Sheet plywood construction is the least common type, at least as far as larger sailboats go. Mostly this technique is used for smaller boats like dinghies, skiffs, and daysailers.

The one major exception are Wharram catamarans, which are usually built of plywood, and may or may not be coated in epoxy. In a plywood boat of any size, a substantial amount of framing is needed, but construction otherwise is relatively simple and fast, as large sheets of plywood can be set in place more easily and quickly than many narrow planks.

Plywood construction does limit design options. Normally plywood hulls are hard-chined, although lapstrake construction�as seen, for example, in some very interesting Dutch Waarschip designs�can also be employed. The third major variation, cold-molded construction, is more properly described as diagonal-veneer construction.

Here the hull is composed of several layers of thin wood veneers that are laid up on a diagonal bias over light framing or a jig. The layers of veneer are oriented at right angles to each other and are glued together and stapled in place until the epoxy sets up. Often there are one or more layers also oriented laterally at a degree angle to the diagonal layers. By laminating thin sheets of unidirectional veneer atop one another like this, a light monocoque Wooden Boat Construction Plans Company structure that is strong in multiple directions can be created.

These cold-molded boats are, generally speaking, the lightest of wood boats, but this method of wood construction is also by far the most labor intensive. The technique is shunned by some, but is favored by those for whom weight reduction is critical.

It is also sometimes used in conjunction with strip-planking, with layers of diagonal veneer laminated over a planked hull in place of fiberglass sheathing. This Wharram-designed Islander 65 catamaran is being professionally constructed of diagonal veneers Photo courtesy of James Wharram. The hull of this large cold-molded yacht has diagonal veneers being laid over strip planking Photo courtesy of Hodgdon Yachts.

The term cold-molded is something of an historical anomaly. The first laminated wood hulls were composed of veneers laid up in female molds and glued together with adhesives that could only cure in an oven. The term is still used to describe diagonal-veneer hulls, but not other types.

Technically speaking, any wood-epoxy hull laid up at room temperature can be said to have been cold-molded. Whatever they are called, wood-epoxy vessels in fact make superb cruising boats. The only problem is that wood-epoxy construction does not lend itself to series production. If you want a new wood-epoxy boat, you must commission its creation as a one-off, and many people with money to burn have done just that.

Many modern wood-epoxy boats are based on traditional designs but take full advantage of modern design and construction techniques to minimize weight and maximize performance.

Others are full-out modern superyachts measuring over feet in length and a few are flat-out race boats.





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