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By dvlp47 , April 3, in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck. Yes, I use a electric heated a soldering iron with a bulb on the tip and wooden formers to get the strips to the approximate curve and twist needed.
With practice I can now be very accurate with the thing. Soak the strips for a few minutes and go to it! Well worth the cost for the time and energy saved. Appreciate the response. When I first started wooden ship models, I purchased the electric bender, works like a champ I use some round thingies women use to curl their hair.
They come in different diameters. To me they work wonderful. I use the same tool as Ulises. One word of advice Do not under any circumstances use the Admiral's. Either buy your own or better yet, buy her a new one and use her old one. Or use steam, you can even do it in the microwave, just wrap the wood in wet paper towels and nuke it on high. Then pin around a form and let cool. I'm a first time wooden model ship builder - AL's Hermione - so I'm still trying to find the best way to do pretty much everything.
I bought one of the electric plank benders but never got it to behave well. I saw the hair curler idea somewhere in MSW pages and "borrowed" one from my wife. I set it vertically by clamping it into a hole drilled into Model Ship Building Planking Kitchen a small piece of wood. I found it to work well and quickly with a lot of flexibility about amount and angle of the bend.
It works well when trying to add a twist to the planking. I've also had some recent success with soaking to wood to be bent in ammonia. It seems to allow for tighter bends and there doesn't seem to be as much "rebound" after the initial bending has been done and the ammonia has dried. I use these hair curlers to do most of my plank bending. Have about five with different radius to make almost any bend. Another beginner chiming in!
I've been using the cheap Amati plank bender like Sea Hoss , it works very well. Make sure the iron is hot, then just dip the strips in water for a second I've found no need to soak the strips for any period of time.
I edge bend the strips with the iron and some clamps before using the wooden-form to curve them, found that to give better results. I tried using the manual bending tool before buying the electric one, but found that to be too annoying, frustrating and slow to be of any use. I read it somewhere in the forum. One simple problem for me: One end stern maybe easily soaked, but whats about soaking and heating the other end bow when the strip is fixed on the hull.
It may be a silly question but I did not got a solution so far. Yes, on my first two models I tried this. If I had to use that method again I think i would cut the strips in to shorter pieces.
You could also remove the strip after it has dried on the hull - don't glue or fix permanently when wet, it should retain it's shape, and then soak the other end. Each strake of planking is usually comprised of several pieces so it should be easy enough to wet the aft piece and fore piece for each strake separately. Just be sure they are kept separate, or marked, as the taper for the fore end and aft end pieces will be different.
The only down side is if the model does not have enough bulkheads the plank will look to be stepped rather than a gradual curve. This is where shaping with an iron wins. I suggest anybody who wants to master bending wood, before they do anything else, read Bending Solid Wood to Form , a publication of the U. There are a few basics. In the sizes modelers need to bend, the task is an easy one.
In larger sizes, the rule of thumb is one hour in the steam box for each inch of thickness! Remember that bending quality varies greatly with the particular wood species used. Hardwoods bend more easily than softwoods, as a general rule. Dried wood, not so well. Even so, bending quality is a crap-shoot.
It can vary even based on the location the wood was grown. You do your best with what you have to work with. Again, bending small stuff is a lot less hassle than bending thicker stock.
The bad news is that the moisture content of the wood is a major determining factor is its bend-ability. Kiln-dried wood isn't good for bending and most all of what modelers will encounter will be kiln-dried.
It refers to the moisture content of the stock, not whether it's been soaked in water before bending! That moisture content has to be throughout the stock, not just on the outside.
For the scientifically inclined, decent bending stock should have a moisture content of between twelve and twenty percent of water by weight. Air-dried stock stored at room temperature in average humidity should have suitable moisture content.
Wood with a sufficient moisture content will be more "plastic," or bendable. If wood doesn't have sufficient moisture content, it can be steamed or soaked in boiling water to increase its moisture content which takes time and heat it. The steam or boiling water is often more effective in transferring heat to the stock than in increasing overall moisture content, though.
Steaming or soaking is often necessary for larger pieces, but much less so for small stuff used in modeling. Generally speaking, you don't have to soak your planking material to bend it and have it stay put. All that usually needs be done is heat it through and through and hold it in position until it cools sufficiently to lose enough of its plasticity that it "sets.
In most every instance, it's about the heat , not the moisture. So, you should try to do your bending with dry heat, some sort of a heating iron or in the microwave, before getting involved in the complication and mess of steam and hot water.
Use a clothing iron, a curling iron, or one of the commercial electric "plank benders. When planking, do as Chuck Passaro says in some of his great build logs: first spile the plank accurately cut it to a flat shape that will fit when bent.
You can read up on spiling in the "planking' instructions in the forum resources section. After you have the plank shaped, it should be bent to fit first before fastening it at all. The goal is to have a perfectly cut and bent plank that fits right where you want it. Some trimming may be required, or some further tweaking with the bending iron, but a properly cut and bent plank should be easily glued and fastened in place. You should not have to be trying to bend one end to fit while the other is already fastened.
A pre-formed plank will also be much easier to clamp in place while the glue dries. Trying to counteract the spring of an unbent plank with a glue bond is a poor practice that often promises sprung planks down the road. A heat source is a matter of personal preferance. I prefer my old Aeropicola plank bender pictured below. It has a "French curve" shaped heated head that permits bending a fair curve to whatever shape one wants.
These two features, which I haven't seen on any of the other "plank benders" on the market, put it head and shoulders about the competition.
Unfortunately, they are no longer made, but do come up on fleaBay occasionally. With decent bending stock and sufficient heat, bending shouldn't be anything to intimidate the modelers starting out. It actually is rather satisfying work.
Bending wood is the difference between "carpentry" and "boatbuilding! Thanks all for the hints and the tips. You convinced me to buy a plank bender. The one of Aeropicola is not available at least in Germany. Does anybody has ever tested the one shown in the picture? I have the model craft plank bender but find it only successful if you first soak the plank.
I use it to shape the plank and dry it out at the same time. It has never worked when using un soaked planks and has the tendency to scorch it if you persist. It would be lovely to be able to spil the planks to get the right shape but unfortunately not really feasible with the timber strips provided in a kit Model Ship Building Planking Zip as too narrow to start with.
Buying timber in the uk, even if you only want to upgrade, is not easy and far too expensive for my budget. Hi, I have noticed that you live in Germany but the plank bender you have shown is V. Just check before you buy as I assume you are V in Germany. Thanks for all the replies. Regarding the voltage problem, we have V in Germany. The one shown is 33 Euro.
I ordered it. However, I am already facing the problem that the planks I am working with have to be bended in two directions.
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