Model Ship Building Plank Clamps 401,Best Fishing Times Today Near Me Quest,Wooden Boat Builder Magazine 0.5 - You Shoud Know
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I completely agree with you. I bought a curling iron from Canadian Tire for that exact purpose. It's better than forcing the wood into position. I learned the hard way. Hi Druxey. I have used heat and steam for over 30 years. However, there are still times, particularly on buff bows where you need something - planking screws - to hold planks in place until glue dries.
I can't speak from experience as I only have a couple of years but on my bounty heat and steam just would not cut it some force was required and soaking would be great if it wasent but it was so I'm not yet convinced.
I used to use planking clamps but stopped using them because I found sooner or later I run out of place to attach the clamps on the fames. Now I soak and bend the wood then hold it in place with pin on pre-drilled hole on the frames. I have two types of pins, one slightly thicker than the other.
For the thicker pin, I pre-drill a 0. It held its place wel. After the glue dried I remove the pins. Before sanding the hull, I coated it with white glue to fill up the holes left. I don't find any problem with this procedure. Personally, I don't use the Micromark screws to force the planks at all. I do a lot of soaking and pinning, and on my last build, spiling, to get the planks in a pre-formed positioned so that they don't have to be forced.
I do think it's important to clamp the planks in position while they are glued to get a tight fit though, and this is where I think the Micromark screws as well as other screws, pins, etc. If clamps must be used the clamp designs shown in the Ed Tosti's Naiad books and build logs are the best I have seen to date. For actual light holding of prebent strips while glue set - still resort to elastic bands with packing and scrap pieces pinned. You can see some pinned scraps ready in the front. I find the pushpins are a trifle heavy for most places and I always drill a pilot.
You can use the pinned scrap on final layer but then the pin goes in just off the strip and I always pack the end of the scrap off the strip with a piece of scrap to make the "nip" level. In the end, whatever works for each person is the Model Ship Building Plank Clamps 735 best way to go, but based on experience of quite a few builders at MSW, if the planks are tapered and spiled or pre-formed using the method Chuck Passaro has described, there really is no need for any clamps or rubber bands.
Carpenters' glue and finger pressure for about seconds is really all that is needed. Any kind of clamp presents the danger of denting the planks, even if using a piece of scrap between the clamp and the plank.
Just one more opinion based on trial and error over the years. Beg to differ slightly -carpenters glue if you mean PVA needs more than tens of seconds to grab securely but indeed not too long.
And i think we agree planks should be preshaped and that any kind of "clamping" to actually form the plank as its fixed is unwise. I have found that properly shaped planks hold fine within 30 seconds most of the time, and always within a minute using the "yellow" version of PVA.
It all comes down to making sure the planks are pre-bent and have no spring in them. Well, we did not get a full meter of snow like Binghamton, NY got in the past day or so, but it will be in the 40's Fahrenheit the next couple nights.
Actually, most of my modeling years were in New Jersey and it was the same there, albeit with the furnace going in winter. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed.
Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build.
The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www. Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment. Planking Clamp Use. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Worldway Posted January 14, Posted January 14, edited. Does anyone use these? If so, I'm curious if their worth the price. Drawings are also provided if you care to turn your own. The timbering sets are produced in our inventory of fine hard woods.
The history of the Oneida as well as the building of the prototype are provided on line for you to explore. These photos do not depict the contents of the Oneida package sent by the Lumber Yard. They have been enhanced at the discretion of the builder.
The Lumberyard supplies all necessary wood, canon and carronades. Items relating to masting and rigging are at the discretion of the builder. The Lumber Yard started with the detailed 54 page instruction book and the plans, then redesigned the kit as an entry level project for model ship building. A few features of the kit are the use of fine hardwoods, well illustrated and easy to follow plans and instructions as well as the the best rigging line available from Morope.
New molds were made to provide clean a crisp set of cast fittings. We also laser cut our own rigging blocks. The following web pages are a step by step construction of the prototype. Various building techniques as well as alternative constructions methods were used on the web site. By reading the instructions and comparing the building of the prototype, a builder can choose which way a certain problem can be solved, or develop their own style of building. Some of the original kit parts were changed or redesigned.
The changes are quite obvious when reading the instructions and looking at the new kit. The Fredrick is a French privateer captured in by the British.
The body lines produce a sharp hull built for speed for her carrier as a privateer with a strong curve at the waterline and a pronounced tumbelhome of the bulwarks gives this hull a very distinctive shape. It was noted when the Fredrick was captured, she was copper bottomed. Laser cut parts include framing jig, keel and deck beams. When captured the Fredrick was renamed Pelican and the photos are of the Pelican built by Harold Hahn. This kit makes a beautiful little model using woods such as Swiss Pearwood, Boxwood and Ebony.
Clay Feldman has done a complete builders practicum from start to finish on the Lexington so even the first time builder can produce a fine scale model. This model is a plank on frame hull kit with all the frames and deck laser cut. Kit includes deck planking and hull planking above the wales, material for the companion way and cap rails.
What sets this kit apart from all others is the 36 part video series on building the model. I had a block of beautiful Turkish boxwood I got from my friend Neptune on this forum, and cut sections to match the original piece.
All glued up and I need to drill and fit the screw and wing nut. Joined Aug 4, Messages 1, Points Clamps now there is something one never has enough of. This looks nice will be making some of these for sure. Joined Jan 9, Messages 3, Points Hi Don, I found the wing nuts on the thin Chinese screws strip the thread easily when you tighten up the clamps, so I used a thicker diameter screw and wing nut.
Joined Feb 12, Messages Points I am curious as to how they work. Do you have a photo? Joined Aug 2, Messages Points Brian said:. Click to expand Hi gentlemen, this is how the planking clamp works.
The threaded screw fits though the spacing of the frames and is tightened up with the wing nut. John, the thread diameter is 3mm and fits with plenty of room to spare.
I also suggest you purchase these Japanese brass clamps. They are great for holding planks together. Thanks Brian. That's a good tip.
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