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This cures rock hard in two hours and covers very well. I brush it up a little onto the seaweed to represent wetting. I will apply three coats of this, each about 1mm thick. This is as far as I can go at this point until the ship is in place. The rippled surface can then be added, by working the surface with a brush while the epoxy is beginning to get a bit stiffer. The river bank in front of the viaduct is detailed.

The East Lyn can be quite fast flowing during rainy periods and the banks are gradually eroded. This exposes tree roots and more boulders, which eventually fall into the river. In places, the bank will collapse. On the inside of bends, shingle can be deposited. Firstly, the river is coated with PVA and Woodland Scenics talus scattered on the river bed and pushed into the glue.

After painting with the desired colours browns with a few patches of green , the first layer of water is added. This is two part epoxy resin. West epoxy. Shingle banks are carefully added while the epoxy is still wet. The banks are modelled using Polyfilla, with talus pushed into the vertical surface and sea moss pushed in to represent tree and shrub roots.

We have tried water effects by Woodland Scenics but do not like the finish, which is not sufficiently glossy. In the end, a second coat of two part epoxy was applied, and just at the right moment when nearly cured, it was manipulated with a dental pick with touches of gloss white added to simulate foam and movement. An alternative is to use clear silicone sealant which can be easily moulded to your requirements.

A hard to take photo. The completed water effects: direction of flow to right A faster moving river can be modelled by adding PVA with a little white water-based paint included and moulding it to represent foam down river of the rocks. A great deal of care was taken to create the falling water using clear silicone mastic mixed where required with a touch of white.

A number of ports were created to the back of the layout. The exits were hidden in the waterfall by silicone 'falling water'. Two 'mister boxes' were constructed housing ultrasonic mister transducers. With a fair amount of 'jigging around' Fountain Boats Models Design we got the desired effect.

Water level have to be maintained through a show, of course, and a draft will blow the mist away from the falls. Still, you cannot have everything! Making the 'water'.

I squeeze out some clear silicone sealant and mix with a small amount of white paint. A sheet of cling wrap is stretched out onto a flat surface and the sealant applied in the length and shape required.

I mould the sealant using dental picks until satisfied with the result and then leave the concoction to cure about 12 hours. It can then can be carefully peeled away from the cling wrap and attached to its final position with a touch more sealant.

You can experiment with different effects if you like as the material is extremely cheap! Once the water drop is in place, I then blend the tops of the fall with more sealant and add whitish sealant and mould to represent splashing and disturbance at the bottom.

If no sea shore has to be represented, I prefer to use Artex. This ghastly material is usually found on house walls and ceilings in swirls or some other squirrely pattern.

Whole articles are written on how to get rid of the stuff. It sticks to anything and along with cockroaches can survive a nuclear blast!

This is slapped on with an applicator and then moulded to produce 'popple' or waves as required. Once hardened, it is painted as desired and then coated with high glass varnish. How I model the sea and shore. To be more accurate, this is about modelling the waves as they come ashore. As usual, there are countless methods to achieve this but I shall share the procedure I find works best. Whether you are modelling the sea lapping onto a sandy beach or onto a rocky seaweed strewn shore, the real work is to get the shore modelled properly.

A sandy beach is easy and is best made with plaster and painted the correct colour. Do not go ahead and work from memory though as even the beach has its subtleties.

Always work from photographs; either your own or ones you find on the internet. We are going to look at how to model a realistic rocky shore using my Cliffhanger as an example.

I wished to include some rock pools so the topography was carved to create this behind the big rock outcrops. The large rocks were again made from Polyfilla and small talus was a bought in product found at a model railway show or made from broken up lumps of Polyfilla. There is a moment when the plaster starts to cure when it can be broken up very easily.

Once the rocks were fastened using PVA glue, they were dyed to the correct colour using aerosol weathering sprays supplied by Modelmates. The next job was to add the seaweed. This represents Fucus vesiculosus bladder wrack which is common in the area I am representing.

This horrid Fountain Boats Models Us mess is pushed around so that it is attached to rocks and up the cliffs to the high water mark. Further details can include mussels which I represent using poppy seeds. Once this has dried, the shore is sprayed again with Modelmates weathering dye. The seaweed absorbs the dye more than the rock so it is defined very Fountain Boats Models Quotes well indeed.

Limpets can then be represented by tiny blobs of thick paint of the correct colour. In the rock pool, the ecology is a little different. There are green strands of Ulva and you can even include small red anemones. The first wave can then be modelled in Polyfilla.

The second wave was then added in plaster and all was painted in turquoise. The shore itself can now be filled with water to the correct depth using West Marine Penetrating Epoxy. I add a small amount of white to the medium to represent the foam. The shape of the breaking wave can be formed using a rotavating movement with your dental pick then, using a small stiff brush, the medium can be drawn back as shown in the next image.

Splashes can be made where the wave hits the rocks. The final job is to add the foam using white tinted medium. You must remember that the previous wave begins to draw back and acts in the opposite direction as shown below. The waves and foam complete.

All that remains is a good coat of Bondaseal clear varnish when all is thoroughly cured at least a week. Tripp Trapp. Milstar 3 AEHF. Modern oil lamp. Boxer MIV. Petal Clock. Rafale B Indian Air Force. NH90 Helicopter. Cutting Board. Porsche coupe Book Case. Serna Class Landing Craft. Dennis Standing Business Man. Military Infrastructure Set Starbucks Cup. Seraj-1 Fast Attack Craft. Bronze Statue. Rafale C Greek Air Force.

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