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Boat Repair. By on. Rebuilding the transom on your fiberglass boat is diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos easy task but unfortunately it must be done on many older boats, usually due to rot in the plywood core. In this article and Video I'm going to show you step by step how to remove your old rotten transom and replace it with a new one. Now my boat has inboard power and the transom is closed all the way up.

If your boat has an outboard you might actually replace the fiberglasw transom including the fiberglass on the outside. I only replaced the core and the Fiberglass on the diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos. I had to make a few minor repairs to fiherglass fiberglass on the outside the hull. These I'll address in a later article. I also wrote another article on the exact tools you'll need and the materials and cost to do this project all.

Click here for that article. Before you get started make sure you take a few pictures Diy Fiberglass Boat Rebuild 40 of your transom from numerous dky angles.

That way once you are ready to start putting it back together you can check your pictures to see where everything was located. Especially if your transom has things attached to the inside of it like your blower, battery wires, hydraulic pump Mine did. After you have pictures that you are satisfied with and maybe a few measurements, it's time to remove everything that is attached to and goes thru the transom.

After you have removed all the wires, blowers, and "stuff" from the inside of the transom, it's time to de-skin it. I did this with my flush cut saw. You'll want to very careful you don'y cut thru diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos hull of diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos boat.

It is very easy to do diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos this area as the hull is generally not very thick. I found out! The type of saw I used to flush-cut along the transom and hull. Now the Fun begins! If your transom is completely rotten it shouldn't be too hard to remove the old plywood and get to the hull. But in my case only about the bottom half rebuilc rotten and the top half was still pretty solid. If that's the case it is harder to remove that solid plywood.

What I ended up diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos was borrowing a small handheld planer from my dad's furniture shop and planing it off little by little. This worked very.

This is probably the hardest part of the entire process. Removing the old transom and getting it down to a smooth flat surface ready for new plywood.

I used a hammer and chisel, small pry bar, and the planer to get it. Again moe have to be very careful that you don't put too much pressure on the hull. You can't pry fibedglass hard against it. Once I had it close Diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos switched to my handheld belt sanderand sanded it down until it was smooth enough that I felt it was good to go. Once I had the old one completely removed and sanded down, I diberglass 2 pieces of thick paper or thin cardboard Not sure what to call it that we had lying.

These were the "cardboards" that they put on top of a pallet before they shipped stuff. I had to use 2 because one wasn't big. Just use something that will let you fiberylass it and cut it in tight corners and get the exact shape of the inside where the new transom will go. I used masking tape that's what was handy to tape them to Diy Fiberglass Boat Rebuild And the hull at the top and tape rebukld 2 reuild. Once I had my template made and ready I laid it onto my new plywood and cut it out using my skill diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos. Marine grade plywood is probably better if you have access to it, but i didn't have any nearby.

Just make sure it's exterior grade if you don't have access to marine grade plywood. They also have treated plywood but i don't believe that is recommended for marine applications.

The treated also wasn't as nice and not very flat. My plywood was already sanded on the flat surface, so I only had to sand it on the edges. I also measured and cut out the other pieces that got added to the middle of the transom and near the top corners where the U-bolt tie down anchor bolts went. Before I glued them together I checked to see how it fits. I used about 5 fjberglass bolts with large washers to use for diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos clamps.

I used Heavy Duty Gorilla glue to glue the plywood pieces. Pretty much any type of heavy duty exterior grade waterproof adhesive should work for. Now you could lay your plywood on a flat surface and glue your pieces together and lay some weight on top but I decided to do something different.

I used screws that went all the way thru when I glued it, and once the glue was cured, I removed all the screws and now I had tiny holes for my Polyester Resin to "soak viy when I glass it to the hull as well as when I glass the inside. Once your glue is dry diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos you removed all the screws you'll want to "fit" it again and make sure everything fits and all your corners are sanded and ready to be installed. Next I marked and drilled my holes for the U-bolt tie down anchor bolts.

This will be the "clamp" that holds your new plywood transom viberglass the corners. First I cleaned both the hull and new plywood transom. Mix according to directions First I "wetted" both surfaces with Polyester Resin. Then I mixed up another quart and mixed in Cap-O-Sil to make my "glue". Don't start with a quart of resin in a quart sized container when mixing in any kind of thickener.

Using a scraper of some kind you are ready to smear the "polyester resin glue" onto the the hull. Make sure you do this while the resin is still wet on the hull and the plywood. My goal was to get it spread out as evenly as possible to eliminate any air bubbles that might form when I stuck them diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos. I had my 2 oldest diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos helping me glue this in.

As soon as I stuck them together I had one of the boys on the outside of the boat to push my U-bolt anchor bolts thru the holes. I then installed my 2x4 clamp bolts and had the boys attach the 2x4's and the nuts on the outside. The last step I did of the actual gluing process was mix up another batch of polyester resin and I dumped it along the top edge of the inside of the new transom.

The goal was to let this resin soak down between the hull and the new plywood, and fill any space so there's no air bubbles in between the 2. This seemed diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos work very well as within 20 minutes or so I had a small amount of resin coming out of the. I let this cure overnight before I did any filleting or tabbing it in.

About 24 hours later I diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos this process. I started by tearing a few pieces of 1. Then I wetted about 3" of the edge of the transom and about 3" of the hull.

After laying my chopped strand matting and wetting the top-side, I removed all the air bubbles from underneath. After that I mixed up a batch of polyester resin and added cap-o-sil and a tiny bit fiberglxss chopped fibers so it mixes better and spread this "peanut butter" fillet along the sharp edges using a paint mixing stick. Then I did another layer of tabbing over top of that using 12" wide chopped strand this time.

Always use the narrower tabbing first and then cover that with a wider piece so your edges aren't in the same place. Before you glass the inside of the transom, you'll diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos to cutout your hole for the gimbal housing. Also I'd drill all the mounting holes as well while you're at it. Use a jigsaw to cut your hole coming from the outside where you already have a hole in the hull.

Make sure you cover the inside of the hole with polyester resin too make it more waterproof. Quick tip; Diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos to avoid drilling holes into your new transom as much as you. Every hole is just another opportunity for water to potentially get in and rot your transom.

You can't avoid all holes, but make sure you seal them as best you can with or marine silicone Only use marine silicone if you want to remove it. Eiy you got the tabbing completed, you are now ready to cover the entire inside of the new transom with fiberglass. I used mat for this but you could possibly use a few layers of diy fiberglass boat rebuild mos strand if you want.

Click here to check price on Amazon. Once that is done, you are done with replacing your transom on your boat! Share 0. Tweet 0. Pin 0. Next Post.

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Repeat the sanding procedures through each progression of sandpaper grit , finishing with the smoothest grit. Use a damp rag to remove any dust left over from the sanding. After you have finished repairing your fiberglass boat, you can apply a coat of marine grade paint to the hull of the boat.

Apply this paint to the entire surface using the manufacturer's recommendations. Next apply a coat of the fiberglass wax and polish.

The fiberglass repair will fix any of the damaged areas and the wax and polish will assist in preventing any future damage to your fiberglass boat. We welcome your comments and suggestions.

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Toggle navigation subscribe. How to Restore Fiberglass Boats. Written by Piyush Jain. To ensure our content is always up-to-date with current information, best practices, and professional advice, articles are routinely reviewed by industry experts with years of hands-on experience. What You'll Need. Drill and hole cutting bits. Key hole saw. Course grit and fine grit sandpaper.

Fiberglass cloth. Marine-grade fiberglass filler. Fiberglass hardener. Mixing buckets. Putty knife. Gel coat. Plastic wrap. Stirring sticks. Small roller or paint brush. Respirator and eye protection. Rubber gloves. Fiberglass wax and polish. Step 1 - Preparation For precaution, wear protective gear. How to Repair a Fiberglass Boat Hull. Related Posts Replacing a transom seal??

I am looking at a fixer upper boat that needs a new fuel tank and transom s Read More. Need of a Baja boat model HLS wiring diagram. Critters ate the wires off on my Baja bass boat, model HLS, while it was What's your Mid-Life Crisis? The cliche is that men as they reach a certain age have a epiphany about li Boat Motor Mercury outboard hp needs overhaul. Boat motor with a boat mechanic we trust and have used before.

It needs an New posts. Search forums. Log in. Install the app. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter luckyinkentucky Start date Sep 9, Joined Jul 29, Messages A buddy of mine who works at a local body shop brought up an interesting topic tonight that no one knew the answer to.

Is it feasible for an every day 'Joe' like you and I to make a mold, spray it with a release agent, and mold a fiberglass hull in our own back yard? I've seen it done on small alcohol powered 'toy' boats, but can it be done with the real deal? Of course I realize there would be a lot of finishing such as sanding and gel coat afterwards, but could it be done? Solittle Fleet Admiral. Joined Apr 28, Messages 7, Build a plug, then a mold and pop um out.

Well - - there is a tad more to it - - you might do a bit of research on how the manufacturers do it to get an idea on what is involved. Joined Mar 6, Messages There's big bucks tied up in molds they're expensive to produce and maintain and are meant for mass production. Joined Feb 12, Messages 1, Why would you want to do this?

I'm all for learning, but is that the best approach for your end goal not sure what that is from your post? Molds are produced for mass production. There is no reason to build a mold. But now I'm wondering what it would cost to build an offshore fisher type for overnight trips up and down the river.

Could one be built for a lot less than, let's say, a Crownline or other mass produced Diy Fiberglass Boat Rebuild On Cabin cruiser? Joined Feb 8, Messages 6, Wouldn't you be better off to start with something like that?

Don S Honorary Moderator Emeritus. Joined Aug 31, Messages 62, Joined Mar 26, Messages 4, I don't have the site available, but if you google Bruce Roberts i'm sure it will turn up. He is a world renowned designer of larger yachts, I think the smallest thing he has is about 28 feet and they go up to well over feet. As for the feasability of developing a mold It is a very very expensive process and unless you intend to use it to build many many boats it is a waste.

It just takes alot more man hours to complete. My wife and I are tossing around several plans from different designers right now.

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