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Lateral mast section. For rigs with large spreader angles, lateral stiffness is of higher importance than longitudinal stiffness. This is the result of a large spreader angle creating longitudinal stability, whereas the lateral stability is achieved by the geometry of the mast section. This makes for a mast section which is wider and rounder than the corresponding longitudinal section and therefore the number of spreaders can be reduced. These sections are popular for upgrading a boat from the �s with a traditional style single spreader rig, but still with all the benefits of modern fun. C#m C#m I guess I'm learning I must be warmer now, A A I'll soon be turning round the corner now, F#m G# F#m Em (PM) Outside the dawn is breaking, but inside in the dark I'm aching to be free. [Chorus]. Bm Bm The show must Go on.� ��� �����. Queen - Bring Back That Leroy Brown. 0. Queen - Keep Yourself Alive. 0. Queen - Mother Love. 1. Queen - She Makes Me. 0. Queen - We Will Rock You. 3. ��������� �����������. ����� ����������� ��� �����, ���� ��� ������ �� ��� ����� ������� ����� ��������� ���������� ������. �� �� ������� ����� � ������� ������ ���. ���� ������ ���� �������� �������, �� ��� ������� � ��������� ��� ����� ���. � ����� �� �� ��� ��� �� ����� �������� ���� ������� � ������. � ������ ��������, ��� ������ � ������ ������� ���� ������ �� �� �������. �� ������, ������� �� �� ����� �.

A mast or spar made from wood not only looks and feels good but it also takes advantage of the naturally ability that trees have developed over the centuries for creating a tall, strong, flexible pole. Those tall straight pine and fir trees are able to grow to such heights and survive in wind storms because their natural elasticity absorbs the shock loads caused by gusting winds. There are several reasons why soft woods are the chosen type of timber used in the making of masts and spars.

However many other spars have been built using whatever light, straight-grained wood was available, such as those shown below. When choosing a timber look for one that is as light and straight grained as possible with, hopefully few knots. But green timber is more likely to develop shakes and will be less able to absorb any preservative, oil, varnish or whatever you use as a finish.

Strength or resistance to breaking in wood involves its elasticity which allows the wood to bend to absorb stresses. All spars need to be able to absorb the shock of a gust which the wood absorbs by bending but too much bend will spoil the sail shape so a happy compromise is needed. And stresses will differ depending on the types of rig and whether the mast keel stepped, deck stepped or in a tabernacle.

However, most spars taper towards the top, as the diameter becomes smaller so the weight becomes less. For the average cruising yacht the weight differences between a solid and a hollow spar are hardly significant.

The other advantage of the hollow, built spar is that it can be made from easily available timber sizes, and with a minimum of waste. I theory it should be possible to acquire a trunk which has the length and taper needed for your spar. However, in my opinion a spherical mast will produce the least turbulence to the air passing over the rig. However, it will be much easier to source timers of smaller cross-section and then build the spar up from them.

Building a spar from separate parts does require very careful attention to the gluing surfaces, they must be closely mating and the actual gluing must be precise. If you are confident in your carpentry and gluing skills, short lengths can be scarffed to produce the required length. Scarf joints are best at least ten times the thickness of the piece and when the various pieces are assembled the joints should be staggered. First determine the required diameter of your spar and then where you want your it to taper and by how much.

Always best to Building A Dinghy Mast Value start with the wood a little wider, thicker, and longer than the finished dimensions. Use a string stretched between tacks in the middle of each end, use this to make several center marks on the timber. Now use the centreline as the datum from which to mark the width of your mast at intervals along its length. You can now cut the outline of your mast to this drawn profile but cut it oversized as you still need to plane the timer square.

Then plane off those eight corners to give you a sixteen sided spar, which can then easily be rounded using sandpaper. The center of the circle will be on the centreline and the edge of the circle right on the edge of the face. Then draw a line from the center of the circle, at 45 degree to the centreline and mark where it crosses the circle. Do this for every transition point and as many points in between as possible, the more the merrier and do it foe both sides of the circle.

One you have planed the spar down to eight sides you can use the same method to mark it up for reducing it to sixteen sides.

Now unless you are building a massive spar getting from 16 sides to 32 sides using the above measuring technique is going to become fiddly. At this stage it is quicker to use your eye and your judgment to plane off the remaining corners. Use long strips of sandpaper wrapped around the spar and pull it backwards and forwards in a long, spiralling motion. However, if a pole of the required dimensions is not available building the spar might be the only option.

But if you are building one it is relatively simple to make it hollow and thus save weight aloft and create a central channel for masthead wiring.

The next problem when creating a hollow spar is that unlike the solid mast the taper cannot be created afterwards. There have been several configurations used to increase the gluing areas across the width of built staves. And several configurations which attempt to reduce wastage and at the same time produce large gluing surfaces. Unfortunately while they will produce superb, strong spars they call for increasingly complex carpentry.

However, it is a technique which really requires access to woodworking machinery, such as profiling and planing machines. It offers a real alternative to expensive swaged fittings, can be easily maintained and it is corrosion-free. Rounding Timber Spars Here my handy tip for rounding timber spars, oars etc. I am wanting to convert the gaff rigged sail from the existing line around �.

Woodboat building questions a Forum for wooden boat building, plans, lumber, caulking compounds and other boat building problems. A Worm Shoe is a non structural piece of wood whose 'sole' purpose is to protect the underwater wooden parts of a wooden boat keel, they need checking and replacing regularly.

Ring Nails sometimes call Gripfast or ring shank, silicon bronze boat nails are renowned for their holding power.

Wood Screws are the most widely used and versatile fasteners used on wooden boats. Which type to use and how to use them. A brief description of the most common Timber used for building Wooden Boats how to choose wood for your project boat. A brief guide to timber properties and wood, characteristics such as strength, stiffness and elasticity for choosing lumber for wooden boat building and restoration.

Air conditioning. Water maker. New kitchen Bow thruster. Hi my name is Sarah. My dad Robert Spinks loved boats and sailing on the Norfolk broads and at sea, he spent many months blood sweat and tears restoring. Does anybody have pictures of original look for a Elgin 14ft deluxe runabout? Notes on Sail Balance, designing a sailing rig, how set the relationship between the center of effort and the center of lateral resistance.

The balanced lugsail is one of the best traditional rigs for small boats, cheap and easy to rig and sail it is a practical alternative to more expensive bermudan rigs. UV Strip, notes on repairing, fitting and replacing a sacrificial UV protection strip on furling sails using acrylic or UV protected Dacron.

Structural considerations for a Junk rig conversion of a wooden boat from bermudan rig to junk sail, where and how to site the mast. The dipping lug sail, is perhaps the most efficient and cheapest, type of sailing rig especially for small sailboats however it isn't as handy as the standing lugger or the balanced lugsail.

A brief description of and how to tie some of the most useful boating knots. Including some that every boater should know. Splicing, tips and techniques, three strand eyes and rope ends, make your own dock lines why pay for something you can easily do yourself. Whipping marine ropes to prevent the ends fraying, how to use whipping twine to prevent rigging and yacht ropes from untwisting. Rope types, what types, construction and materials to use on your boat when to use three strand and braided marine lines.

A Handy Billy made with two blocks and tackle can be used to give mechanical advantage wherever needed. Boating ropes and rigs, knots, sailing, line handling and line care, what all boaters need to know.

Privacy Policy. Advertising Policy. Cookie Policy. I am perfectly aware that the majority of Wooden Boat aficionados are sensible folk. However, I need to point out that I am an amateur wooden boat enthusiast simply writing in order to try to help other amateur wooden boat enthusiasts. DIY Wood Boat. Mast Boot Partners Timber You might like these. DIY Woodboat Building Questions Woodboat building questions a Forum for wooden boat building, plans, lumber, caulking compounds and other boat building problems.

Worm shoe Sacrificial Protection for Wooden Boats A Worm Shoe is a non structural piece of wood whose 'sole' purpose is to protect the underwater wooden parts of a wooden boat keel, they need checking and replacing regularly.

Ring Nails for Marine Fastening. How to use Copper Rivets and Roves construction guide to fasteners on your wooden boat. How to use Clench Nails, these provide a fast reliable method for fastening small wooden boats. Wood Screws for Boat Building and Repair. Make sure that the Wood that you buy and use is sustainably grown and harvested.

Timber, Lumber for Boat Building. Timber Properties A brief guide to timber properties and wood, characteristics such as strength, stiffness and elasticity for choosing lumber for wooden boat building and restoration. Taking up, how a Wooden Boat Becomes Watertight. Recent Articles. You might like these. Sail Balance Notes on Sail Balance, designing a sailing rig, how set the relationship between the center of effort and the center of lateral resistance.

The Balanced Lugsail The balanced lugsail is one of the best traditional rigs for small boats, cheap and easy to rig and sail it is a practical alternative to more expensive bermudan rigs.

Sailing Rigs, a Guide to Sail Shapes. The basic shape of the Sailing Rigs most commonly found on wooden sailing boats of every size. Sail Cloth About sail cloth and the different materials for DIY sail making and the average leisure sailor. Lug Rigs for large and small sailboats.

Sailors have been using Lug Rigs for centuries because of their unique sailing abilities. Junk Rig the ideal cruising sail. How to rig a western version of the Chinese Junk Rig the basic lines and controls. Junk Rig Conversion Structural considerations for a Junk rig conversion of a wooden boat from bermudan rig to junk sail, where and how to site the mast. The Dipping Lug Sail The dipping lug sail, is perhaps the most efficient and cheapest, type of sailing rig especially for small sailboats however it isn't as handy as the standing lugger or the balanced lugsail.

Knots for Sailors. Splicing Three Strand Rope.

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