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How to Build A Boat With HP 2-Stroke Outboard Motor Boat Engine.� ����� � ��������� ����� Motor | �������� ���� ����������� �������� ����� NASAT Sang T?o. NASAT Sang T?o. A pair of motors mounted onto the outboard�s anti-ventilation plates would make steering easier. And I get no gain from the panel when the sun isn�t shining. Green feelings aside, battery maintenance also turns out to be a big advantage of adding solar to your boat. Since the trolling motor batteries never sit in a discharged state, their life span can be increased by a matter of years. David Taylor, owner of a Grady-White , became so frustrated with replacing expensive batteries that he installed a small watt solar panel purely to extend his battery longevity. Build Your Own Boat. Myboatplans Boat Plans. By Kaycee Longmore on Wed, 10 Feb More Information. This program was created by Martin Reid for all boat enthusiasts and aspiring sailors who wish to be on the waters with their own boats. Martin is a master boat builder with 31 years' experience in this field. He developed a passion for boats while he was young. An introduction to a master boat builder helped Martin a lot. Furthermore, He needed strategies to build boats to supplement the skills from the master boat builder.� Have motor power ready to help hold station. Of all the seamanship safety techniques that should be practised the man overboard recovery is the most important. Every multihull differs in its speed, layout of equipment, manoeuvrability and drift.

Olly Epsom explains how and why! In essence, all I did was to replace the engine block of a 2hp Johnson outboard with an electric motor. I installed a speed controller, a lithium-ion battery and bought a twist-grip throttle from an electric bicycle outlet online. But we want bigger, better, sexier, more fun.

Well, I did, anyway! Using various low-cost off-the-shelf components I built and tested the following elements:. Interaction with the computer is via a touch screen display by Nextion which includes a key-code lock.

Monitoring of motor speed, temperature, voltage and current is performed and displayed. Control of motor speed and cooling fans is provided. In addition there is a facility to control the motor via Bluetooth which is of no practical use but looks cool. This system consists of four variable speed cooling fans, and one 3D printed mechanical cooling fan directly attached to the motor shaft. Overhead view of the electric motor with the lid removed. Adding a computer controller can dramatically improve usability, security and confidence in operation.

The internal workings of all electronic computers are digital, but the real world is usually analogue. An Arduino Nano can monitor up to six analogue inputs, deliver six quasi-analogue outputs and eight digital inputs or outputs. Analogue inputs: in this case means voltages between 0 and 5V which the Arduino sees as a number value between Again this is a voltage between 0 and 5V which the Arduino sees as a number value between Digital means discrete, a choice of two values, in this case 0V OR 5V.

Checking out the motor in the workshop after a dunking. Construction is under way. The motor is connected, the motor controller wired up, some form of simple computer control may be installed, and the battery is fully charged. In addition fans and sensors may also be fitted.

This I did in February. The first snag I hit was that the bracket I had for the dinghy was too high, meaning the propeller was half out of the water. The only solution was to sit at the back of the dinghy, which ruined the hydrodynamics. But the motor worked well, and was fast and powerful.

I was averaging 5kph until after just over a kilometre at full power there was a sudden jolt and the motor stopped. I deduced that the motor speed controller had failed, and when I dismantled it at home this did in fact turn out to be the case. I suspect it was undersized for the motor.

I ordered a replacement, more powerful, controller rated at W. When it arrived, it was a mass of unidentified wires and it took me a couple of evenings to identify the throttle. Still, this is not necessarily such a bad thing given that the donor motor was never designed to operate backwards in the first place.

At this point I reasoned that there was woefully insufficient cooling fitted. I had a ruffle around my electronics stores and located four 12V fans of various sizes. This essentially stirs the air up and away from the motor base Build Your Own Outboard Boat Motor Quadrant plate. I also fitted a Bluetooth receiver and pre-programmed the Arduino to take commands from a Python program I wrote on my laptop.

Battery box showing main power outlet. Note stainless steel carry handle from a kitchen unit. For the second test I mounted the motor on a wheely bin, filled it with water, and controlled it from my laptop, indoors � it was just after the Beast from the East and there was still snow in my garden. This was not needed, because the motor ran for 50 minutes at full throttle without fault.

It seemed the bigger controller and cooling systems had done their job. Why not run it for longer? Why not? Because the charger caught fire.

So much for the CE marking�. I also cut down the mounting bracket by mm, ensuring the propeller is correctly submerged even if the entire weight of a person is not at the back of the dinghy. Now came the time to properly mount and enclose all your equipment.

In my case the Arduino, Bluetooth, and fan speed controller had always been mounted in an IP67 rated enclosure. For the rest of the engine mounted components current sensor, potential divider, motor speed controller, fans, throttle sensor, display a suitable Build Your Own Outboard Boat Motor 500 housing was needed.

One for the battery, and one for the engine. Since the outboard is air cooled large holes are needed in the enclosure for the fans. These I covered with aluminium louvres from Screwfix. The entire enclosure will let water in through the louvres, and out through drains at the bottom, but should protect the interior from deluging. This is where the commercial model outboards have a definite advantage over a home-built one � they can be fully submerged.

It was during the enclosure build that I managed to connect the battery the wrong way around, which blew up the hall current sensor and, luckily, nothing else. For the display, I cut a hole in the enclosure to mount it, but used PVC window material of the sort you get on sprayhood windows to cover it, which permits use as a touch screen. A 3D printed bezel again designed with OnShape then covered the ugly hole and made a more professional finish.

I also used a couple of stainless steel kitchen door handles to mount on the motor and battery box. All fasteners are A4 stainless steel except they are not of course, most of them are only A2�. Mounting to the dinghy is via the donor outboard leg clamp onto a standard bracket. After much frustrating work, testing, building, retesting, rebuilding and swearing, the electric outboard formally entered service in May on a run from Millport bay to Millport in Great Cumbrae in the Clyde estuary.

Since the first deployment it has been tested extensively and increasingly aggressively, and has so far given reliable service. Speed varies with load and conditions but is generally around 3 knots.

I suspect that due to motor speed and torque characteristics that the motor could take a larger or more aggressive propeller.

As long as the battery is plugged in the cooling fans will continue to run based on motor temperature. The key-code lock function means that the motor can be locked with one touch on the display and left safely to cool down.

Running the outboard on a Canadian canoe during a 10km trip on Loch Lomond. The two of us travelled over 10km in under two hours on one battery charge including butting into significant swell. Not surprisingly the system works better on the canoe than my inflatable, due to much better hydrodynamics, and speeds of 6 knots were possible.

I have also used it to land on Ailsa Craig and, following a clumsy dinghy launch, briefly completely submerged the motor. The motor continued functioning, although I did have to clear water out of the battery box the next day. Having used the outboard all summer I have found no serious issues with it and, other than a few minor software improvements including adding a cruise control function I have not modified it in any way. Without wanting to tempt fate, I am fairly satisfied I have a machine that, by home build standards, is tough and reliable.

I am very happy with it. With everything assembled on the bench the electronic inputs can then be processed onboard using user-written software.

Arduino can also communicate with various other equipment, such as touch screens, using a range of standard formats which, while potentially daunting to the uninitiated at first, are fairly simple, and there are numerous examples online.

All software simply takes inputs, conducts operations on them, and uses that information to generate outputs. It must be very reliable, and that is another reason for using an Arduino rather than a more complex computer � Arduinos are extremely robust and any computer errors are unlikely to remain hidden. Suggested flow diagram for control software. The Arduino is a series of microcomputers originally produced in Italy by the Arduino company.

Programming is Build Your Own Outboard Boat Motor Job Description via a very simple language which can be freely downloaded onto a PC. The program is loaded into the Arduino via a USB cable. Arduinos are ideal for control and monitoring as they are low cost, low power consumers, with a huge community of users, meaning a vast quantity of advice is freely available online.

Part 2: Computer control, monitoring, Build Your Own Outboard Boat Motor Trend enclosure and cooling system � as published in the January issue of PBO. Skip to content �. Home All latest posts. The 3D printed mechanical fan. Completed Flow Control Diagram. Computer controller inputs and outputs.

Introduction DIY electric engine controller system.

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