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In this post, we answer the questions that come up most frequently about insulating a van for vanlife. We also take a deep dive into commonly used insulation materials, their pros and cons, and whether you should use them.

Finally, we dig into our recommendations and go through step-by-step installation instructions. This post should cut through some of the confusion you may have about insulation, so you can get your van built and get out there on the road! So why do we need insulation and what exactly does it do for us vandwellers? To answer these questions, it helps to understand a little bit about how heat transfer works. There are three types of heat transfer: radiation , conduction , and convection.

The biggest sources of radiant heat in your van are the windows, which allow sunlight to pass through and heat the inside. This can be nice in the winter, but absolute hell during a hot summer day.

Reflective window coverings deflect radiant heat away from the van and keep the inside much cooler. You can also use reflective surfaces inside your van to help retain heat during cold weather.

When the radiant heat from the sun warms the metal body of your van, the heat is transferred inside through conduction. We can slow this process of heat transfer by insulating the walls and ceiling. Because of convection , the heat inside your van naturally rises upwards. Having thicker insulation on the ceiling helps keep this heat inside during cold weather. Heat can conduct inside your van through the exposed frame much more easily than it can through the insulated areas.

This thermal bridge reduces the overall effectiveness of your insulation, since heat can go around it to a certain extent. Some insulation is always better than no insulation, and an insulated van with some thermal bridging is much more resistant to heat transfer than a van with no insulation at all. If you spend a lot of time in very cold weather, it might be a good idea to put up thermal breaks, which are basically non-conductive materials i.

There are a ton of different insulation materials available, from standard building insulation to experimental space-age compounds. While there are a lot of options out there, not all of them are good choices for insulating a van. Good van insulation needs to have the following:. But how do we directly compare different insulation materials when they all come in different thicknesses and square footage and R-values?

With a spreadsheet, of course! The chart below compares the R-value per inch and relative cost of some of the most common and most talked-about campervan insulation materials out there. Want to see where these numbers are coming from? Click here to view our source spreadsheet!

Looking at this chart, there are a few clear winners that both insulate well and are cost-effective. But every type of insulation may be good for some applications and not so good for others. Below, we dig a little deeper into each of these materials and their recommended uses.

We really love a lot of things about Havelock Wool insulation. But depending on your needs and priorities, these trade-offs may be worth it. Since Havelock Wool is effective, environmentally-friendly, non-toxic, and helps mitigate moisture and sound in your van, we think this is one of the best all-around choices for van insulation. Reflectix is thin bubble wrap with a reflective coating on each side that acts as a radiant heat barrier.

This is just plain wrong. The fact is, Reflectix is primarily a radiant barrier. Other materials will give you much more R-value for much less money. That said, Reflectix has its uses. It also works well for insulating large cavities like the interior of door panels, because there will naturally be an air gap that allows it to hold heat in.

There are much more effective and much less expensive insulation materials out there that have a higher R-value per inch. Polyiso typically comes foil-faced on one side, which both acts as an effective vapor barrier and provides a radiant heat barrier if you install it with an air gap. We used polyiso in our first van build, and we highly recommend it � especially for budget builds. With polyiso, you get great bang for your buck and even better R-value per inch.

You can find polyiso at most big box hardware stores these days, but it can still be a bit tougher to find than other types of insulation. XPS has very good R-value per inch at R-5, and is also impermeable to moisture. Another benefit is its high compressive strength, making it ideal for floor insulation.

You can even use it to build lightweight cabinets for your van! Although XPS is slightly cheaper than polyiso by the sheet, it also has a slightly lower R-value per inch.

XPS manufacturers use HFCs hydrofluorocarbons in its production, which are incredibly harmful greenhouse gases that are much worse than CO2 in their effect on global warming. Because of its high R-value per inch and fairly low cost, XPS is an excellent choice for van insulation. Even if you use polyiso as your primary material, we recommend using XPS under your floor because of its higher compressive strength.

That is, if you can get over the unfortunate environmental costs. Expanded polystyrene EPS is another type of foam board insulation.

But it contains a lot of air gaps that allow moisture to penetrate, degrading the material over time. Although EPS is cheap and works fine as insulation, it has a lower R-value per inch and degrades over time � especially when exposed to the vibrations of a van.

Polyiso and XPS have much higher R-value per inch, can stand up to vibration, are moisture impermeable, and are generally far better choices. Closed-cell polyurethane spray foam comes in two varieties: the big spray kits that professionals use to insulate houses, and the smaller cans of spray foam like Great Stuff. It also works as a sound dampener. Installation can also be pretty intimidating, not to mention messy. It could end up being a total nightmare if you do it wrong. Canned spray foam like Great Stuff is fairly inexpensive, and does a great job at filling gaps, cracks, and hard-to-reach areas like your vehicle frame.

But rigid foam board is much cheaper, easier to work with, and nearly as good at insulating. However, Great Stuff canned spray foam is perfect for gluing up foam boards and insulating between them, as well as filling all those little gaps and cracks. It stands to reason that it would work well in vans also.

Fiberglass has a fairly low R-value per inch, meaning you need more thickness to get the same insulating value as foam board. It will make your skin itch, and you do NOT want to breathe it in. It also degrades over time, and may fall apart and release harmful particles with all the vibration of driving around in your van.

Just make sure you have it fully sealed off from the living space. Rock Wool also called mineral wool is a semi-rigid batting material made from recycled stone spun into thin fibers. Rock wool has a higher R-value per inch than fiberglass, and its rigidity makes it much more durable and easier to work with.

And, like fiberglass, installation can be a very itchy process. Again like fiberglass, you will want to wear protective clothing and a face mask whenever you work with rock wool.

Inhaled rock wool slivers can become lodged in your lungs, and there have been some indications that this can lead to health problems. Rock wool is a more effective insulator than fiberglass, and it does a better job dealing with moisture.

This would be a good choice for insulating door panels, but foam board is still a better and cheaper choice for the rest of your van. Rock wool also has some emerging health concerns, so if you use this make sure to wear protective gear and seal it off completely from the rest of your van.

Denim batt insulation is made from recycled cotton blue jean material. Denim batts are much more pleasant to be around than fiberglass, and could be a good option to insulate cavernous areas like door panels. Thinsulate is a synthetic insulation material produced by 3M.

Originally designed for use in clothing, Thinsulate has become increasingly popular in van builds of late. Thinsulate is attractive because it combines decent insulation properties with sound deadening and moisture control. But, Thinsulate has the lowest R-value per inch of any insulation material we look at here. You would need nearly twice the thickness to match the R-value of foam board insulation, which is a tough sell when every inch of interior space counts.

Lizard skin is essentially paint with ceramic micro bubbles suspended within it. Basically, you spray this stuff on the interior or exterior of your van, and once it dries you have a very thin layer of ceramic that forms a super effective heat barrier � or so the manufacturers of these products claim. You can also buy just the ceramic microbubbles and add it to the paint of your choice. While this sounds like a great idea in theory, there is no actual scientific research that backs any of this up.

The EPA does not recommend using these products in place of bulk insulation, and there are even tales of quixotic homeowners insulating with only ceramic paint and having severe heating and cooling issues with their homes � not to mention pissing away thousands of dollars in the process.

Not only that � this stuff is expensive. However, if research came out that ceramic paint is indeed effective, we could see it being used in conjunction with standard insulation as an exterior coating to prevent the metal body of your van from absorbing heat in the first place. It also has sound dampening properties, reducing the need for a separate sound deadening product. XPS also has a high R-value R-5 per inch and is slightly cheaper than polyiso.

This insulation setup should work very well for most people in most climates. But if you regularly deal with extreme heat or extreme cold, there may be a few other things to think about which we discuss below. Reflectix is a primarily a radiant barrier. It does a great job as a window covering, but as soon as you stick it behind your walls without an air gap it becomes effectively worthless as a radiant barrier and you only get the benefit of its low R-value.

We recommend using Reflectix to shield your windows or to line large cavities such as inside door panels. There are two sides to this debate:. Argument 1: You need a vapor barrier to prevent your van from rusting out. When you live in a van you create a lot of moisture from cooking, running a heater, and just breathing.

When warm, moist air from the living space reaches the colder metal of the van walls, it condenses into water and gets trapped, potentially causing rust and other problems over time. Therefore, you should skip the vapor barrier and make sure your van has good ventilation and drainage, so that any moisture will just evaporate back into the living space. However, if you go this route it is vitally important to properly install your foam board so that there is no possibility of moist air becoming trapped behind it.

If you use this type of insulation, then no vapor barrier is needed. A good vent fan like the MaxxFan Deluxe K is your best friend when it comes to moisture control. A vent fan is pretty much a necessity for comfortable vandwelling, and we think every van should have one installed. Vent fans help you with both moisture control and temperature control, and they also make sure your van stays safe while cooking or running a heater.

We have a Fan-Tastic Vent installed on our van that works well, but we recommend going with a MaxxFan Deluxe due to its built-in rain cover and lower profile. At the bare minimum, we recommend installing curtains made out of insulating thermal fabric.

Even better are reversible window coverings with a reflective surface on one side. On hot summer days, putting up your window coverings with the reflective side facing outwards will reflect radiant heat away from your van. On cold winter nights, facing the reflective side inwards will reflect radiant heat back inside. We use these curtains to cover the windows in the rear living space.

Want an Eclipse Sunshade? Many vandwellers find they can stay most comfortable by following the seasons. So, they move to cooler areas when it gets too hot, and warmer areas when it gets too cold. But what if you spend most of your time in areas that are extremely cold or extremely hot? Well, you may have to change things up a bit or put more focus into mitigating certain things.

You will also want to reduce thermal bridging as much as possible to prevent as much heat from escaping as you can. Insulating this thick will cost you some interior space, but if you typically find yourself in very cold weather then that may be a worthy tradeoff. If you have windows in your van, adding insulated window coverings with a reflective surface facing inwards will greatly reduce heat loss through your windows, and the reflective surface will help keep radiant heat inside.

We have reversible reflective curtains in our van , and they make it noticeably warmer inside when we face them inwards. Buddy heater. But insulating well is the first step to keeping heat inside your van. Some argue that if you only spend your time in hot climates i. Florida or somewhere similar then insulation may do more harm than good.

The argument is that while the insulation will slow down the heat from getting into your van at first, once it does get in the insulation actually prevents it from radiating back out once the day cools off. Installing a good ventilation fan will really help you control the temperature in your van. A vent fan creates nice air flow that helps keep you cool. It also sucks out hot inside air and pulls in cooler outside air, which basically takes the insulation out of the equation when it comes to heat escaping at night.

But, we do not recommend doing this if you plan on spending any time at all in colder weather. No matter what kind of setup you have, we highly recommend installing reflective window coverings if you spend time in hot weather.

Your windows are the biggest sources of heat coming into your van in the form of radiant heat from the sun. Adding reflective coverings to your windows during the day will reflect radiant heat away from your van and keep the inside much cooler. For covering your windshield, we highly recommend the Eclipse Sunshade retractable windshield cover.

These instructions are for insulating your van with foam board. We wrote a post with detailed information about how we insulated our van awhile back that we recommend checking out. Pro tip: K eep all your templates! You can reuse them later when you install your wall paneling and your flooring. Well, maybe not. John is the co-founder of Gnomad Home. He researches and writes the in depth guides on our site, and his goal is to make vanlife, alternative living, and dream chasing accessible to all through the democratizing power of free information.

Last week we took a pretty big step in our van build: we finally completed building, staining and finishing our kitchen cabinets and countertop. We continued the mismatched log cabin style we had going on our cedar plank ceiling, and we threw in some blue stain to add a splash of color to the van�. Is the Ford Transit the best van for van life?

Sydney Ferbrache writes about the pros and cons of living full time in a self-converted Ford Transit. Where do we house all of the electrical components in our van build? We have two big AGM absorbed glass mat batteries in our van, and we decided to build our own battery box out of plywood.

If charged and discharged properly,�. This is�. A few weeks ago we did a post on how we insulated our conversion van. The last thing we did in the insulation process was laying down Reflectix on the floor. Now we get to install the rest of the floor! There are three main parts to a flooring installation for a van build: Insulation�. The seed has been planted! Such an exciting time! I am finalizing my insulation plan for my Vanagoin Syncro. I have already applied sound deadener to all paneling.

I thought that applying the silver foil might be good againt the sound deadaner then wool but it seems that after reading your digest on silver foil requiring an air gap to work effectively I am convinced of not and saving money therefore it sounds like I will apply the wool to all air cavities. I was wondering how you treat an area like the front end therefore the area between the front and dash. There are wires and ventilation here and of course the woirkings of the wiper mechanism.

I suspect that if I placed the wool in areas around the vent pipes other than the moving wiper ars than this would be good as the front leaks a substantial amount of cold.

As well loosely around the wiper mechanism should not hurt anything but I suspect that some amount of wool will find its natural resting spot in those areas. Your thoughts? James Zeff [email protected]. Hi James, you are correct about the foil insulation � it needs an air gap to work effectively, so if you have the space to spare you are generally better off using an insulation with a higher R-value.

As far as the front end goes, I would be very careful about insulating up there since as you saw there is a good chance of interfering with moving parts. Generally, you would just insulate the living quarters in the back, and perhaps use an insulating curtain in between the cab and the rear if you need to contain heat a bit more. Hope that helps! The wool insulation comes from Havelock Wool, which is an awesome company out of California. You can check them out here. Really good article, thanks!

My main worry is sweating and condensation. I intend to get a black van too too, to avoid the white commercial look. Hi Jay, the number one thing you can do to avoid moisture and condensation issues is to have good ventilation in the form of rooftop vent fans.

A good fan and a cracked window will keep the air flowing and will help prevent condensation from collecting anywhere.

As far as insulation goes, there are two general ways to insulate a van. The first involves using an impermeable insulation like rigid foam board XPS, polyiso, etc. Foam insulation is cheap, easily available at big box hardware stores, and insulates well. It is also impermeable to moisture, which can prevent condensation from getting back to the metal walls in your van.

Spray foam also falls under this category, but it is much more expensive and difficult to install vs foam board. The other general way to insulate a van is to use a breathable insulation material such as Havelock Wool or Thinsulate. We are looking to insulate a Ford E-series Shuttle Bus. Both sides are lined with windows. We want to cover most of the windows, insulating over them.

In general, there are two main ways to go about this. The other general way is to use a breathable insulation material such as Havelock Wool or Thinsulate. Thanks for a thorough supply of info, soon starting on our van! Hi Nick, great question. Most people tend to pack the inside of the ribs with insulation � either spray foam or stuffing some sort of loose fill insulation in there.

We did a half-assed job of spraying foam in ours. This probably helps a bit, but obviously does not fully eliminate the thermal bridge. Still, we can mitigate them by using thermal breaks. Of course, some insulation is better than no insulation, so even without adding thermal breaks, insulation is still adding to the general comfort of your van.

Going all out with thermal breaks will help out a lot in more extreme temperatures � sweltering summer heat or freezing winter temps � but if you tend to avoid the extremes and stick to more comfortable weather, then you could get away more basic insulation.

As others have said, this is a fantastic write up! Hi Eric, thanks for the comment! I would be very skeptical of using denim insulation in a van build. Despite the boric acid treatment, mold would still be a risk, and if you have wood or other organic materials right up on the denim, these could mold as well.

On the other hand, denim is very eco-friendly, available, and affordable, and works well. But if you do choose to use it, I think you would want to put up a vapor barrier between the denim and the living space, to prevent moist air from getting to it. Reflectix is a great material to use as a vapor barrier. Thank a lot for sharing this! I just wanted to ask if you need a vapour barrier at all if you use Sheep wool insulation. I was thinking of putting vapour barrier between the wool and the timber cladding.

Hi Michael, you do not need a vapor barrier with wool insulation. Wool is very breathable and also hydrophobic, so any condensation can easily evaporate out with proper ventilation. This is an excellent article. Thank you. We have a question about sticking the polyiso foam board to the van�I have a Transit van that we are converting. The upper portion of the walls curve and the foam board will likely leave air pockets between it and the walls. If we put great stuff around the perimeter of the back of the foam board and a few lines of it in the middle are we not creating a moisture trap?

Hi Gail and Jim, that is definitely the trick with properly installing an impermeable insulation material like foam board.

Putting Great Stuff back there can fill the gap, and you can reinforce all of this by putting a layer of reflectix over your insulation as a vapor barrier, which will prevent moist air from getting into your insulation.

What do I use to block out the window behind a shower wall in a Ford Transit van? I want to be sure it stays in place permanently since I wont be able to get to it ever again.. Thanks Rosanne. Awesome write-up, thanks for the effort. I really wanted to make sure that was the case, and it is noted in the updated MSDS dated 6 June Hi Aaron, thanks for adding that info.

Hi, Great read and very informative, I was just wondering what information you have to say that wool is an environmentally friendly choice? Hi Doug, wool is a renewable resource that is not made from fossil fuels. Many of the options such as foam boards and spray foam on this list are made from petroleum products, and release harmful chemicals into the atmosphere during their production.

Animal agriculture in general is horrid for the environment, and sheep are no exception to that. Noted and agreed. With building materials in general, eco-friendliness is often relative. When compared to something like XPS, polyiso, or spray foam, wool has the advantage of being renewable, biodegradable, nontoxic, and a natural product. But as you mention there are certainly emissions associated with animal agriculture. Another natural insulation material to investigate is cork.

Great article but the webpage is over-monetised so the advertising distracts and detracts from the flow of the article. Hi Freeman, thanks for the feedback. While we do monetize in order to keep our content free, usability is our primary concern. Thank for sharing! QQ: how much space allowance should I make on the width?

This is about 3. Am I cray-cray?? So glad you found this helpful! Are those measurements between the frame ribs, or does that go all the way out to the sheet metal walls? If you are gungho on sleeping side to side instead of back to front, one strategy that some use is to sleep at a diagonal. One issue I have is that I hope to use the van to chase snow, and the Express ribs are pretty awkward to work with. I read you guys left the metal exposed for a while but have since covered it up.

What are you guys using as a thermal break for the exposed ribs by the door and along the top below the high top? Hi Aiguo, so glad you found this helpful! As far as thermal breaks, we wrapped the ribs below the high top with a flexible foam. The rib by the door houses a lot of our electrical wiring as well as our light dimmer and inverter switch, so we just faced it with a plywood panel. Thank you so much for this site! Did I miss it? Hi Kimli, so glad you enjoy the site! Hi there!!

Amazing article! Thanks for that! One question, please � I understand the difference between using sheep wool and spray foam, but � Is the higher R for spray form worth the risk of not installing it properly over the lower R factor for sheep wool, but that being riskless?

Hi Radek, it really depends on your needs and priorities. If your number one priority is R-value, then spray foam is tough to beat. There are good use cases for both, but it depends on what you value more. I hope that helps! Hi there, I have not heard of Reflectix breaking windows.

My question is: if I insulate only certain areas of the walls like in cavities , is that ineffective? And therefore not worth insulating at all? Will the areas not covered by insulation like where the wheels stick out defeat the purpose of insulating at all? Thanks so much!!! Hi Penina, great question! Do you plan to travel in extremely cold temperatures? Van insulation tends to be more effective at holding heat in, and can be a real game-changer in cold environments. If you will be in hotter weather, then the biggest bang for your buck is going to be proper ventilation i.

Thanks for your webpage! It is very helpful and informative for those of us who are about to embark on such a mission. I am an RN who is planning to do very short assignments. I am planning to convert either a use Sienna or Odyssey by striping it down a la Forestry Forest van in youtube , live in it and come back home to South FL from time to time.

I would spent parts of all 4 seasons up North and West as do a variety of outdoor activities such as hiking and skiing. Not only that Polyiso sucks and gulps water many times more than XPS. Polyiso may be OK in the Southern and Western non-mountainous regions in the US since dry and not so cold would be better.

Not bad for a major conglomerate brand! THIS is apparently an independent testing�. Look at the R values for ALL manufacturers and how they drop�..

This is a presentation where the addition of certain chemical would make Polyiso much better at milder low temps like 40 F but no freezing. Hi Fre, thanks so much for the info!

Thanks again! Question: if you want to install sound insulation, where does it go? Under the thermal insulation right next to the body of the van? Or over the thermal insulation on top of the metal struts? Hi Robin, sound deadening materials should go directly next to the body of the van. They work by adding mass to the metal panels, which prevents them from vibrating and transmitting sound. We juste bought a Chevy Express Explorer Conversion van Basically the same as yours.

This is sooo helpful. Quick question: What did you do with the holes in the floor from the seats bolts. I can see the grass under me van. Did you cover them from the inside or the outside? Did you use Great stuff or some metal sheet? Hi Jeanne, thanks for reaching out!

We actually did not cover the holes in our van. However, if you were to cover them up I would recommend doing so with a fiberglass patch kit available in most hardware stores. I have the same chevy can and am having the hardest time having it stay. Hi Kevin, we actually sewed curtains out of a product called Insul-Shine, which is a reflective batting material.

We fastened grommets around the top, and we hang them above our windows using cup hooks. Our curtains are reversible, so we can reflect heat out in hot weather and keep it inside in cold weather. As far as keeping Reflectix up, many people use velcro, or cut it slightly oversize so they can wedge it in there. Wow amazing! Thanks for investing your time in making this page. It reaaaaally helped. Thank you a lot!!! Love your article, possibly the most informative van insulation article on the net.

This one like all. These industrial linings have super high R factors, some are paper thin and can potentially be used to insulate vans. Definitely worth looking at. Hi Wilson, thanks for the kind words! How much insulation do they usually have already?

Hi Scott, thanks for reaching out! In truth, that all depends. In hot weather, proper ventilation i. Where insulation really matters the most is in cold weather � a well-insulated van can make a huge difference between comfortable and freezing.

Thank you so much! I do have a question on the noico. Should that be for just the flooring or the walls too? As well as should it go under or on top of the insulation? Hi Madelyn, so glad you found our site helpful! Noico and other sound deadeners need to go directly against the vehicle surface i. Putting it on both the floor and the walls would be the most beneficial.

But keep in mind, you do not need to completely cover the metal surfaces � there can be sizable gaps between the Noico sheets and they will still kill the vibrations of the metal. Hi Jamie, the metal frame in many vans is hollow, but has openings that allow you to stuff insulation inside. No amount of glue and certainly no greatstuff can guarantee a complete seal, which raises the question of moisture buildup and subsequently mildew possibility.

I see very little support here for sparing kits that can leave out all doubts. Hi Mehrdad, I completely agree. To help further combat moisture penetration, some builders use a layer of reflectix or plastic sheeting outside the foam boards as a vapor barrier.

Foam boards are cheap and effective as insulation and can be good budget options, but they may open you up to other issues over time. Take a look at armaflex or K-flex with adhesive back in a roll. Not so expensive, but R value is big and it is really easy to instal. For hot weather, reflective window coverings, good ventilation, and shade both natural shade and your own shade from an awning are much more important than the amount of insulation behind your walls.

I appreciate your recommendation to use the canned spray to fill all the gaps and cracks. My wife and I love the idea of traveling around the states in a van while working remotely for a few years. We may consider spray foam insulation when we convert a van on our own. This was a great very well done article and these open comments can open up more ideas and improvements.

Now my van is just for short camping and road trips so the most R value is not my objective. When I shut my van doors with the loose polyfill it now sounds more solid and quiet like a meat locker door. The cushions often have zippers or just cut the seat open. Because any soft pillow pads or pillow backs can be full of the stuff. Just cut open with a knife to find out and take what you want before the garbage company crushes the sofa. Of course you can buy it new in bag at hobby departments but it can be kind of expensive and why buy new when you can get for free and save the environment from more new plastic?!

Plus it would take a good number of bags of this stuff. ALSO of course for the floor insulation, a free alternative is used carpet foam can be found in dumpsters behind carpet stores.

If someone asks you what you used to insulate your van, tell them you used the guts of old sofas! What could be cheaper and help save our planet and reduce our landfills and our polluting factories?

Reuse is a main part of recycle so maybe we need to get over our mental blocks of reusing vers buying new! Hi Jim, thanks so much for commenting and for sharing these tips! I love how this method not only gets your van insulated, but also saves all of this synthetic foam from going into a landfill, where it would just take up space for hundreds of years. I definitely will be obtaining free used sofa sear foam when I redo my boat seats that are extremely weathered and old. Take care. Thank you for sharing this.

Thanks you two! We are building out a Sprinter and wondering about using Thermacork as insulation. It is R Has anyone else asked this question? Why not ad it to your comparison? Hi Lisa, Thermacork can be an excellent insulation material and it has many benefits. We recently toured a van build that used cork insulation to great effect.

The big downsides for cork at this time, though, are cost and availability. However, we may consider adding it to this comparison in the future. Hi John, Thanks for your response and your whole website.

But yes, you can walk into a hardware store now and buy cork insulation! It is all over the web too. So this is not expensive. It is so superior to alternatives because it is extremely lightweight, waterproof, fireproof, mold proof and also easy to access, easy to use, and cheap. So just want to encourage others to take a look.

And here is a chart comparing the R-values of insulation that includes cork� Cork is one of the better materials out there. Oh, and it is harvested by real people from trees that are not cut down. So cork is also one of the most sensible materials out there. Where did you use it and how? Thank you so much!!! Hi there� wondering how to properly insulate the ceiling and therefore the entire van with the presence of a ceiling fan.

Do I make sure it can be covered with an insulated section? Have found your blog so helpful, thanks for making all this information available! Hi Olive, so glad our blog has been helpful! If your ceiling fan is already installed, you can insulate around the fan opening. We installed our fan before insulating, and insulating around the fan was a matter of cutting the insulation to shape we used polyiso foam board. You could just cut a square of foam board insulation and wedge it up there, or they actually sell insulated vent fan covers on Amazon.

Hi John, great article. Thank you for doing this. Although after your article the hard foam like Polyiso and xps sounds the best solutions for my location and budget although here everything is 5 times the price anyways�: I previously found quite a bunch of those high impact flooring puzzle mat -for free-.

To your opinion could those be a good idea as a solution for insolation, including floor, walls and sealing or not? If yes what would you use to glue them? And finally could those mat release toxic emanations under hot days? Hi Louca, thanks for commenting! As far as using it elsewhere, you would probably need to layer it in order to compete with the R-value of XPS or Polyiso. Off-gassing is also an unknown, and comes down to the specific product that you have.

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