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build your own boat trailer guides Aug 28, �� Build Small Boat Trailer Build this small boat trailer for summer. TO BUILD A SIMPLE trailer for a small light, runabout of 10ft to 13 ft long by Wheels and hub seats. You could use standard hubs or other, different hubs, but I�ve used marinised hubs that include a Springs. The springs come. 12 rows�� Trailer Series / built by Ray Macke (left) Trailer Series / built by Steven. When deciding to build the Noyo Trawler I was very aware of the trailing limitations in Great Britain. The width of the boat was fine at 8 foot, length and height were not an issue, but the weight was. We have a towing limit of tons (including trailer weight), unless you get a truck and have a special license.
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Get the centre at mm half of Use this to measure back for the holes drilled in the RHS for the locator pins, which are in the centre of the springs.

The distance between these locator pins is mm. Half is mm, so the locator holes in the axle will be drilled in the axle at mm out from the centre at mm. Measure mm and check the chalk marks against the spring locator studs. Fortunately, the holes I drilled in the wrong place in the axle could be used for the weld which is melted into the stub axle.

Drill 16mm holes in axle at the spot markedfor the spring locators. I used the holes I drilled incorrectly first, to fill with weld to hold the stub axle.

Otherwise I would have filled those holes in. The axle is being put under the springs this time rather than on top as with the previous trailer. When the weight goes on and the axle moves up with the springs, it would hit the towbar. Assemble the wheel and hubs temporarily according to the kit instructions, and check that the clearance between edge of the frame and tyre is correct�20mm.

Also, check that the mudguard is in the correct place by holding it over the wheel at this point. Now I weld the stub axle into the RHS axle. Push the stub axle in and hold it square. Weld the plug in the axle hole to hold the stub axle in. Because I have taken one leaf off the spring, the bolt through the leaves is now too long. I cut off the extra thread on the top of the spring with a cutting wheel. This allows the axle to sit down properly on the spring locator.

I place the axle on the spring locator studs under the springs and bolt it in place to the plate above the spring with 40mm U-bolts. Put the wheel back on temporarily to position the mudguards.

I place a block of wood with a 70mm clearance above the tyres to get the height of mudguard I want. That looks better than 50mm clearance which would also be possible. Simply weld the mudguard directly to the side rail of the frame. Put the solid-rubber keel rollers along the main bar about a metre apart, with the fi rst roller welded to the very back of the drawbar.

The trolley frame can move and should be towards the back. The weight of the boat is toward the back with something like an outboard motor. The distance that the frame can be adjusted is the distance between the rollers. With the boat overhang at the back by about mm or mm, the bow would probably reach over the third roller, and three should be enough.

The chine rollers bolted to the back angle-iron cross-member of the frame help with pulling the boat on and off the trailer. A drawbar skid welded to the bottom of the drawbar at the front stops the coupling plate digging into the ground when the trailer is empty and dropped forward. From your own boat, measure the height of the eyelet on the bow post. You need to position the hook on the winch wire at about this height so you will have a reasonably straight pull when winching the boat on to the trailer.

The winch post is made of 35x35mm RHS welded to a plate which is U-bolted to the drawbar. This means the winch post can be adjusted back and forwards depending on the size of the boat. I calculate the height of the winch post from the total distance from the drawbar to the eye on the bow of the boat.

With the winch 80mm high, I need a winch post of mm. I cut the 35x35mm RHS steel at mm to allow for the 10mm plate welded onto the top where the winch is bolted. I lean the post, cutting it to sit at an angle of 80 degrees, then weld it to a piece of 5mm or 10mm plate. This is U-bolted in position, so can be adjusted. As the Flexstep is constructed from aluminum, its suitable for both freshwater and saltwater conditions.

Rust is not going to be an issue. Fiberglass Dinghies: 7 Must Know Facts. Customer reviews are very positive, with no complaints, but some observations that you may need to invest in your own bolts to ensure a secure fitting.

This is due to the bolts provided being a bit on the short side. Overall we think this an outstanding piece of kit and is bound to make stepping onto your boat trailer much easier. This product is largely utilitarian rather than a work of art. Perhaps the only downside is that its a permanent fixture on your trailer. Customer sentiment is very positive and there are few complaints. Overall its a thoroughly recommended product for anyone looking for an inexpensive boat trailer step.

I chose their SW14 for M10 bolts, which were too long but easily cut down to the required size. Material - Potential volts. Bolts The only option here would be stainless steel, my regular supplier I used for bronze screws Anglia Stainless. By the time the thickness of the various washers and aluminium was taken into account I reckoned M10 x 35mm How To Build Your Own Boat Trailer Uk hex bolts would be the best choice.

I got the spring washers wrong by not specifying a rectangular section, and felt the square section ones they sent would not spread the load sufficiently on the nylon shoulder washers, but Anglia were very happy to do an exchange with my next order.

Suspension One part that caused most uncertainty was the suspension units this size and capacity of trailer would need two axles but I was in a quandary whether to go for the axled units or the suspension stubs which bolted to each side of the trailer, both had pros and cons. In the end what decided the issue was that the stubs had adjustable splines. Between the two axle this would tilt the trailer until it was riding level with the correct nose weight.

This would be just what was needed to hold and support the wires along the length of the trailer when it was constructed. A company I had not dealt with before Beal UK provided these. I think I will need a small nylon washer for the inside, between the wire and the aluminium, these I can get from Nylon Alloys. Grommets Where the wires need to go through the aluminium grommets would be needed to prevent damage to the wires, this was the item that was difficult to How To Build Your Own Boat Trailer Guitar source, the best fit I could find was for 6mm thick metal and my aluminium was 7.

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