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I used the Miniwax White Wash with a mix of water. My goal is to have a table that can withstand teenagers, pets and absent minded husbands. Given that the stain is so light, I am a bit afraid to use the oil base finishes that you recommend here because the the yelllowing factor. Given the stain I used, do you still recommend the General Finishes product?

All finishes listed may yellow, so I suggest you stick to General Finishes. William I am having the Amish build a Walnut trestle table and chairs for my new beach house. House will see lots of traffic as well as our family for it will be a rental. You may use polyurethane as a topcoat. I bought an espresso colored table from a retailer. Everytime we put sonethingwarm or hot onbtgecrable, even if its on a potholder, the table turns white.

Why, and would one of these products work? Which one? The color change appears due to chemical reactions. I ordered a kitchen table that is not high-end, but I need it to last awhile. When it arrives, I plan to put a clear coat on it before we use it.

If I got this right, durability is your main concern. Hi We have a solid French oak table which I am looking to sand down to achieve a lighter colour. Any thoughts on maintaining the pale colour? Any thoughts would be much appreciated!! Thx Caroline. The only thing that comes to my mind is to use polyurethanes or lacquer instead, they keep the natural color of the wood much better than oil or varnishes.

We have 3 kids and need it to last. Do you think this is An issue of the kind of paint she used or lack of proper sanding with top coat?

I want to now add more myself�can you recommend d which one would be best in your opinion? I suggest you try General Finishes Topcoat , please follow the instructions. I think it will work for you. Hi thank you for taking my question. I was thinking of sanding and then applying stain then polyurethane. Would my table be able to withstand hot items without having a white stain occur after I refinish it?

The sanding, staining, and polyurethane will definitely help protect your table. I know that direct sunlight overtime on polyurethane will break down and weaken its protection. I would recommend any varnish to help protect your table from heat such as spar varnish.

You can get this varnish online or at any hardware store, but if you are to use polyurethane, I would use an oil-based polyurethane because it is more durable.

Even using something like linseed oil will do the trick. Wondering if Sherman Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel Trim paint is durable enough to redo an oak dining room table �and would it need a final topcoat? Thank you. That paint should work on the oak dining room table.

If you decide to use a topcoat, I would recommend this polycrylic topcoat by Minwax on Amazon. Being a kitchen table it needs to withstand spillages, and preferably be resilient to the bottom of a hot cup without leaving a ring. All this and want it to look as natural as possible � so no brush marks from thick coats or varnish etc, maybe something I could rub in with a cloth over a couple of coats?

For the best protection for your kitchen table, I would suggest using a spar varnish or spar urethane. I would recommend using this clear satin spar urethane finish by Minwax on Amazon. Since this varnish is clear the wood should still look natural with no gloss. Hello I have a solid hard rock tiger maple kitchen table from Link Taylor.

It has a clear coat on it but it is beginning to wear off in places. Is it possible to put a new coat over what is on there now? If so what should I use.. I purchased the table in the late s.

I want to protect the wood. I love this table. It usually takes time and energy but the result is really good. The removal of the old coating can be done with a sandpaper machine with sandpaper P � P � P in this order.

Usually, the legs of the table are not so affected and can only be scratched with P sandpaper and then varnished with one or two coats. For the tabletop, after reaching the wood and finishing with P sandpaper, apply one coat of varnish, then remove the unevenness with fine sandpaper P and then apply one or two coats of varnish.

I recommend an oil-based polyurethane varnish such as this product by General Finishes. It is possible to give a slightly yellowish tint and a few days after varnishing to have an unpleasant odor, but you will have a strong coating suitable for the kitchen table. Oil-based varnish will adhere better to the old varnish it is the table legs than water-based varnish. Thank-you for this article- it was very helpful! I just finished weeks of using chemical strippers, sanding, scraping, crying, etc.

After all that work, I want it to last forever. Before applying anything, you should have a nice smooth base to be done with P sandpaper, without scratches, cracks, and injuries. Then apply a primer you can use the paint with which you will paint for a primer.

After it dries well, sand with P sandpaper or finer sand very lightly to remove small bumps. Then apply another coat of paint.

After drying, you can sand with fine sandpaper if there are irregularities. You can use paint like this by Rust-Oleum. For a strong coating that does not turn yellow, you can use water-based varnish for floors like this by Rust-Oleum as well. Apply one or more coats until you like the smooth finish. Spraying gives you good smoothness but this is usually a more expensive option and if you have no experience the result may not be so good.

Some varnishes and paints get a good end result with a brush. When applying with a brush: � Use a wide soft brush � Dilute the varnish or paint according to the instructions, it should not be too thick � Apply a thick amount � Makes movements along the entire length of the table � There should be so much varnish that almost drips on the edge of the table but not to flow You need to try harder but in the end, you will have a wonderful result.

Hello- Thank you SO much for taking the time to write this article. I am refinishing a kitchen table. I have stripped and sanded the table and now ready to complete with a protective coating of?!

What is the difference between that and the General Finishes Urethane Topcoat? Also, I will not be able to take the table outside for ventilation. I was just planning on opening doors and windows and use fans to ventilate.

I would greatly appreciate your suggestion! And, thanks again for sharing your talent and knowledge with us! Each product has advantages and disadvantages and we choose them according to what advantages we want and what disadvantages we can accept. General Finishes Oil Based Arm-R-Seal is a really good product with great durability but the drying process is long with an unpleasant odor.

It is more appropriate to apply when working in a room where you do not live and you can wait before using the table. General Finishes Urethane Topcoat will do a good job for a dining table is also healthy and durable. Its life a little shorter but the application process will be faster and less smelly. In your case, I think it would really be better to use this product.

Not recommended for coating over white paint and light colors because it turns yellow. Im getting ready to refinish a maple kitchen table. My thought is to stain with a oil based stain then apply either Cabot Oil based poly satin or Behlen Rockhard urethane satin as a top coat. I plan to have the finish dipped as to remove all old ain and varnish, sand w.

I have a well ventilated garage tp work in. Im looking forward to you thoughts and directions. Hello Mike, I congratulate you for the knowledge you have and the choice you have made.

Get rid of the old coating until you reach a tree. Start with a larger sandpaper at the beginning to remove the old varnish and gradually use a finer one P � P � P If necessary, sand with P between coats.

Regarding both varnishes, both are good choices and will do an excellent job. The Cabot version will work easier and faster but is a bit expensive. The Behlen version is an example of how you have to work hard to get the good stuff. The high hardness means that the table will look like it has just been varnished for a long time.

Keep in mind, however, that the longer the drying period, the more likely it is that some unwanted dust will stick to the varnish this is quite unpleasant. Your garage should be very clean and you should not do anything until the table dries. Judge according to your own preferences. I am sure that you will make the table beautiful and it will make you happy for a long time.

I have an old oak refectory table that I have sanded. Not far enough reading your article so need to get into this. I have walnut in my kitchen so would like the table top to reflect this, any recommendations on stain and top coat?

Also I am going to paint the base and legs in a light grey, do I need to put a top coat on this? Hi Suzie. For a really good finish, first make sure that the table is well sanded, without remnants of the old coating, and has a good smoothness.

Choose the stain according to the walnut you have and according to the samples of the stain. This stain by Minwax will do a good job, has a wide variety of colors, and will make a beautiful finish. Then you can cover with top oil-based varnish as number one in the list.

Advice: After choosing the color of the stain, first, apply to a small area on the underside of the countertop or elsewhere where it is not too visible. This way you will be sure that the color is correct. If you want a darker shade, apply another layer of the stain and when you achieve the desired result, apply a transparent varnish to protect the tabletop.

It is not necessary to cover the gray paint with a coating because the base and legs do not have as much load as the countertop. However, the additional protection is not superfluous and if you have remaining coverage and time you can apply. Make sure the paint and topcoat are compatible. I just had a farm table made out of white oak from out property. I applied minwax pre stain and apply minwax stain 2 coats.

I want to apply a high gloss clear coat Oil base polyurethane on It. What brand would you recommend? It is 9 ft. Length and 3 ft.

Should I wipe it in or use a foam brush and I am looking to apply 4 coats with sanding between coats. Hi Robert. I must note that you have gathered a lot of useful information and you have orientated yourself well. You can use both a wipe and a foam brush. When you usually wipe, the layer is thinner and dries faster, but you may need to apply more coats.

Choose an option that will be more convenient for you or you have more experience. Four coats should suffice. Sand between the layers with grid P Hi- I have refinished our kitchen table once already, about years ago. I Used Minwax fast dry polyurethane to finish it, and did four coats.

Does this mean that I did not prepare the wood correctly, or did I just need to keep adding layers until it evened out? I want the surface to be flat, and durable. I dislike the tacky feeling as this finish has aged, and we are ready to refinish again, so looking for advice. Hi Nancy, probably the mass was not smooth enough before applying the varnish. A few things you need to know about a great finish: The wood must be well prepared and with good smoothness sandpaper P and more.

Then sand between the layers with sandpaper P � or a sanding sponge like this one. Apply coats evenly applied. Keep in mind that when the varnish is applied it really looks smoother and denser but after the solvents evaporate the layer becomes a little thinner and the varnish accepts the unevenness of the wood.

When you have a smooth solid and flat base you will get a smooth finish without channels. I think that if you sand the old coating evenly and then apply 4 coats you will get an excellent finish. Hi William I have a wooden kitchen table with the surface being a veneer which has a water based finish which has started to become sticky and any paper etc left by accident leaves marks. I have been told that I need to strip this off and then re-coat.

Hi Phil, first it is good to apply a detergent to remove old coatings like this one by Dumond. This way you will remove the old varnish with relatively little effort without having to throw away a bunch of sandpaper.

Then sand gently with P sandpaper. Be careful when sanding near the edges because there is the highest probability of abrasion of the veneer. If necessary, you can fill some gaps with filler and sand the filler; this article may be useful to you. Then, if you wish, you can apply a stain to give color to the veneer.

Finally, apply the varnish, preferably at least 3 hands. It is good to sand between the layers: once one layer is dry, sand, and then apply the next layer. When you get a thick and smooth finish, then you are done with the application and only the varnish will dry until it hardens completely. I recommend product number one on the list. Hi William, I just bought a small table that suits my needs exactly as it is, with factory satin finish.

What would you recommend? Your email address will not be published. Save my name and email in this browser for the next time I comment. Introduction There is certainly no shortage of toxins in the world, and it seems that new ones are being discovered all the time. When it comes down to it, there are a lot of things in the Skip to content Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. Top pick. Extremely durable Easy wipe-on application Natural look.

Yellow hue Long curing time Can damage wax coats underneath. Flexible application options Prevents food stains Durable and long-lasting. Requires multiple coats Needs sanding between coats Can cause yellowing over paint. Goes on smoothly Easy to use Dries into a very hard surface. Another good quality of this paint is its longevity and durability. Instead, it produces a hardened surface that can withstand most conditions for a long period. This means that the GF coating is almost certainly suitable for outdoor use, even if the label does not specify as much.

Combines the qualities of a water-based paint with some of the qualities of an oil-based paint. Creates a durable and water-resistant coating. Available in flat, gloss, semi-gloss, and satin. Although this coating is expensive, the price goes down significantly if you buy it in the gallon size.

One of the most expensive finishes on this list. Cannot entirely replace an oil paint for most purposes. Water-resistant Partly made from renewable natural resources Soft gloss. Very strong smell Requires a separate sealer Tends to streak. This Varathane is also advertised as being made with a self-leveling formula. This feature is very important for a coating that is meant to be applied three times thicker than most other coatings of this type.

In my experience, the product falls short in this regard. Meant to be applied thickly, which saves time and reduces the number of coats needed. Very inexpensive. In fact, this is one of the most inexpensive coatings on our list if you are buying by the quart. Another time-saving feature.

Superior coverage, according to the advertising. Quick-drying Forms a hard layer, like most water-based finishes. Some customers say that the paint is too thick, making it hard to apply smoothly. Self-leveling feature does not seem to work. This coating might only be good for small projects as a result. Produces some yellowing over time. Like all oil-based finishes, this coating produces a soft surface that is relatively easy to dent or chip.

Antique furniture and other fine-quality wood surfaces are the main areas in which this product will be useful. Old Masters does seem to be very effective for its admittedly niche purpose. Oil-based formula provides superior shine. Gel-like consistency allows this coating to be applied with a cloth, or with a paper towel.

Produces a soft finish with a hand-rubbed look. Meant for fine-quality wood such as you might find in an antique table. Not particularly expensive. Universally good reviews. I was unable to find a single negative review. Oil-based finishes are softer by nature, and this one is meant to be even softer than usual.

As such, it would not be suitable for projects that require a lot of impact resistance. Wiping the coating onto the surface by hand is problematic because of the nasty and toxic odors that come from this product. Still, a mask will remedy this problem. The ECOS coatings are so-named because they are designed to be environmentally friendly to an extreme degree. They are certified as being totally safe for the environment.

Since this is a water-based coating that does not use polyurethane, that claim is not particularly hard to believe.

This coating has no harsh toxic odors, making it much more pleasant to use. This varnish does not yellow with age. Full disclosure of all ingredients. This is very reassuring. Dries to the touch within 30 minutes, and can be sanded within 2 hours. One of the most expensive coatings on the list Emphasis on environmentalism might be a little bit excessive. The advertising seems to focus mostly upon this factor.

Not really necessary for healthy individuals. This is actually the most expensive type of finish on our list for those who are buying in bulk.

Successfully combines the qualities of water-based paint and oil-based paint. Fast-drying, at least when compared to most other products of its type. Produces a very durable finish. Much higher shine than a water-based alternative. Very expensive. Iron a tablecloth at a setting suited to its fabric.

Lay the crease-free tablecloth out face down and center the insulated fabric on top. Pin the insulated fabric to the tablecloth.

Sew a straight stitch all the way around the outer edge of the insulated fabric with an all-purpose thread that blends in with the tablecloth. Flip over the protector pad so the tablecloth is on top and arrange it on the table with the edges of the tablecloth draped over the edge of the table.

Measure the length and the width of the table top, add 6 inches to each measurement and cut a piece of insulated fabric with scissors according to this measurement. Cut the two tablecloths to the same measurement. Iron both tablecloths at settings appropriate to their fabric to get rid of creases. Lay one tablecloth on a flat surface, place the insulation fabric on the tablecloth and smooth the second tablecloth on top to sandwich the insulation fabric in between.

Any pattern on the tablecloths should be facing outward. Pin around the outer edges of the three layers to hold them together. Measure the circumference of the table and subtract 3 inches from the measurement.

Multiply the measurement by two and cut a piece of elastic thread to this length. Double the thread on your needle and sew around the outer edge of the table protector pad, pulling gently on the thread as you sew. This makes the edge cinch like a fitted bed sheet.

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