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Welded Aluminum Fishing Boats - Thunder Jet - Heavy Gauge Aluminum Boat

The number of people with aluminum welding skills and access to fabricating equipment has increased considerably over the years. Yet many are unaware of fundamental considerations confronting the short-handed amateur building a single boat for his own account.

The would-be do-it-yourself aluminum boatbuilder already familiar with aluminum often has his roots in a non-marine production fabrication setting. Thus there may be a tendency to want to apply mass-production techniques to the construction of just a single boat. But building a single boat yourself is considerably different from one built on a production line, and thus may require certain adjustments and even a revised mind set on the part of the builder.

First, there is no one, superior way to build an aluminum boat. In fact, there can be many suitable approaches and variations. Second, there is no reason why you can't build your own aluminum boat in your own garage or backyard that looks identical to one produced in a factory, and with similar weight and strength qualities even if you don't use the same mass production methods, or have access to sophisticated, specialized equipment and proprietary materials.

Consider the following. Because production builders are always thinking up ways to cut labor and material costs, and time required to build boats, they evolve specialized methods and materials that help toward these ends even if there is not necessarily any improvement in the boat. For example, they may use special proprietary extrusions to expedite some assembly process such as joining side and bottom plating at the chine see Fig.

But when building your own boat, you may not have access to such a specialized member, nor could afford it or the shipping in the small quantities you'll need even if available.

Alternately, your chines might then be backed with a simple round bar Fig. None of these methods is necessarily superior, but just different due to circumstances. Also, welded aluminum hull boats line builders often make up sophisticated re-usable production jigs over which pre-cut hull panels are assembled and welded.

These jigs may also rotate to facilitate high-speed welding, with internal members added after the hull is removed from the jig. But when building your own boat at home, it's just as likely that the boat's internal framework gets built and set up first, with plates fitted over this, marked to shape, cut to suit, and then welded in place.

In other words, the boat's framework becomes the forming jig and stays in the boat; you make it and pay for it only. In either case, end results are much the same and with comparable boat quality. Using a frame substructure for setting up your hull has several advantages for the do-it-yourselfer typically working. First the frame substructure makes it easy to welded aluminum hull boats line hull accuracy that is so important to ultimate performance in a powerboat.

Second, the framework makes it possible to build from "off-the-shelf" materials and shapes available anywhere for lower welded aluminum hull boats line and easier material purchasing. Finally, the framework makes it easier to form hull members in place and during weld-up since clamps and other devices can be readily used most anywhere as required, acting as extra pairs of "helping hands" in the process.

Factory production boatbuilders often welded aluminum hull boats line specialized forming equipment not always available to amateurs, or use forming services that might be provided by metal suppliers when quantity requirements are high.

Conversely, a design for the do-it-yourself builder would more likely specify internal longitudinal stiffeners i. Either method gets the job done but the latter is easier and cheaper for most building their own boats. First, a disclaimer. But in reality few do-it-yourselfers want to pay the price for the service.

But steel is considerably heavier than aluminum, so boats designed for steel are usually designed for greater displacement. Thus, if the boat is built from aluminum, it won't be nearly as heavy and may welded aluminum hull boats line float welded aluminum hull boats line in the water. The consequences for a semi- or full-planing powerboat might be so much the better since the lighter aluminum boat will need less power and fuel.

But in converting slower displacement-type powerboats from steel to aluminum, you might need to add ballast into such a boat done in aluminum to bring it back down to its original lines. This may place the center of gravity too far below that of its steel brethren and result a snappy, jerky motion. So instead, welded aluminum hull boats line may want to place some of the added weight higher up. But again, best advice is to consult the boat's designer.

Aluminum is not as strong as steel so some compensations must be made if using it in place of steel. Without getting too technical, with aluminum used for shell plating e. Put another way, to get the same strength as steel in an aluminum hull, it needs to be approximately half the weight of steel.

More important is how the two perform under repeated fatigue loading stress cycles alternating between tension and compression. Tests show that for a similar number of cycles, steel stays above its yield strength threshold. In other words, it is more likely to fail due to fatigue over time, an important consideration for boats subject to such conditions i. The point is that if you decide to adapt a steel design to aluminum, you'll need to increase scantlings i.

But by how much? Converting from steel to aluminum is fairly straight-forward mainly because the members used are much the same in configuration and the methods of design and welded aluminum hull boats line are similar. And while there are standards-making organizations e. After all, we're talking relatively small boats here, and as we'll see, the sizes, types, and thicknesses of members readily available and suitable put some practical limits on what can be used to frame up and plate a metal boat in the first place.

Consider plating thickness. On the steel boat, this is more often based on the practical minimum necessary to ward off corrosion over time, provide decent welds, and a thickness adequate to minimize unsightly deformation.

Thus 10GA. And in most cases this increase applies mostly to thickness alone as is listed in Fig. An operating premise is that steel boats in the size range discussed are almost always stronger than is necessary; this due to the nature of the material, for reasons previously noted, and the fact that the welded aluminum hull boats line of most boats adds strength in and of itself, and often where it does welded aluminum hull boats line most good such as in the bow.

Thus there is some latitude in the conversion process - we're not talking rocket science. So using the example, 10GA. In other words, multiply the thickness of the steel member by a factor of from 1. Tip: Start with 1. That's basically all there is to it. In the above and referring to Fig.

These members are common in steel boats rather than using formed or extruded members such as angles, channels, tee's. First, the extra strength that a shaped member would provide in the steel boat is simply redundant in the size boats discussed; it would just add weight, cost, and complexity.

Second, shaped members add to the difficulties of inspection, maintenance, and corrosion protection in the steel boat; for example, the ability to see and coat the underside flanges is difficult, especially when such members are small.

However, in the aluminum boat in Fig. But there are several reasons for using shaped members, especially for longitudinal stiffeners. First, such members are stronger. Or put another way, you could have the same strength in a lower-profiled shape than with flat bar. And the added strength in the aluminum boat is a plus. Another benefit might be more usable interior volume.

And because marine aluminum requires no corrosion resistant coating and won't rust, the shaped members don't welded aluminum hull boats line to maintenance and inspection difficulties as in the steel boat.

Finally, shaped members, especially those of symmetrical section such as tee's and channels, are easier to work. They tend not to be so floppy, and bend more uniformly than flat bar. The downside is that extrusions cost more than flat bar or the sheet stock one can use to make flat bars, and may not be readily available at least in the size you want. If working from stock plans for an aluminum boat, the designer probably specified certain sizes, types, and alloys of members for framing.

But deviations may be possible. Most designs have some latitude in alternates that can be substituted. For example, angles can be substituted for tee's and vice versa. Channels can be made from split square or rectangular tubing, or even split pipe if somewhat larger than the specified channel.

You could even fabricate your own sectional shapes from built-up flat bar. Then too, if members are not available in one welded aluminum hull boats line, perhaps one the next size up welded aluminum hull boats line suffice.

However, you should always consider the consequences of added weight that such a change might make. Welded aluminum hull boats line, it is probably better to avoid downsizing to a smaller member as the opposite alternative. To the welded aluminum hull boats line, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available.

But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the so-called marine alloys in the and series, the latter typically being extrusions. Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives. But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H With these choices, you should be able to find everything you'll need to build your own boat.

However, the designer may have already taken this into consideration if is specified. Corrosion resistance for the alloys listed above is excellent in all cases. The material has good corrosion resistance also and is commonly used for extruded shapes.

Many have substitution guides you can use to suit what's stocked. Early aluminum boats were often made with closely-spaced transverse frames with few, if any, longitudinals, a carry-over from traditional wood boatbuilding no doubt. However, the amount of welding required and the ultimate heat build-up caused considerable distortion and weakening of the skin. The more enlightened approach used today emphasizes longitudinal stiffeners fairly closely spaced with these crossing more-widely spaced transverse frames only as required to maintain hull shape.

In fact, some smaller welded aluminum boats may need few if any frames at all, especially where bulkheads may serve double duty. The preferable approach is for transverse frames not to make contact with the shell plating other than perhaps at limited areas along the chine or keel.

In effect, such frames are "floating" within the hull, and are used to support and reduce the span of longitudinals which are the primary members welded aluminum hull boats line the hull plating.

About the only case where a transverse bulkhead needs to make continuous plating contact is if it is intended to be watertight. Even then, such a practice tends to distort the plating and is often readily visible on the outside of the boat. In short, general practice is to NOT welded aluminum hull boats line plating to welded aluminum hull boats line frames or bulkheads welded aluminum hull boats line if such members touch or come near the plating.

The chine is the junction between the bottom and side on a v-bottom or flat bottom boat. On high-speed planing boats, this corner should be as crisp are possible, especially in the aft half of the hull.

Make point:

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While a good set of plans will specify what to use for these members, this does not necessarily rule out another alternative if what is specified is not available. These are available in many sizes, often in the form of extrusions with radiused edges that facilitate welding, or you can cut your own from plate.

Other stiffeners are often extruded shapes that can get costly and may not be as readily available in the sizes needed. When installing longitudinals, bending can present problems depending on curvature and member type. One approach some builders take to reduce bending effort is to gore members along their flanges as in Fig. This idea is sound, but the execution takes care to assure fair curves.

Good practice also calls for radiusing the corners at the gores slightly to minimize hard spots against the plating. Avoid over-welding, and completely around the ends of each cut. This allows a strong fillet weld on both sides of the junction the inside weld can be intermittent.

A simple corner junction here as in Fig. In fact, some builders extend the bottom plating considerably past the transom on faster planing hulls to form integral non-adjustable trim tabs. These can later be bent down slightly if required for best performance and then bracketed to the transom once an optimum position has been found.

Transom thickness technically need be no more than that of the side or bottom plating. Additional thickness may be required � at least in the area of the cut-out � either through the use of doublers or thick inserts. A thicker insert is preferable at a cutout to avoid the need to seal joints between doublers by welding. Where thin plating meets thicker plating, bevel the thicker edge at a slope equal to at least three times the thickness of the thinner plate see Fig.

The insert should have rounded corners rather than being a hard square or rectangular shape. There is an on-going debate as to whether welded aluminum boats should be made as light as possible via light plating and framing but with more of it , or with heavier plating using minimal but also somewhat huskier framing members.

A boat built with light plating and framing is lighter in weight for more-economical operation, has a higher speed for a given power, is more-easily trailered, has greater payload, and because it has less material, will cost less. First, there is a natural tendency among builders in any material to over-build and second-guess the designer, even when a boat uses the heavier plating approach initially.

The typical idea is that if so much is good, then a little more must be better. The result is that such boats weigh more than the designer predicted. You guessed it � NOT the builder. Much depends on the boat and its expected service. For pleasure boats, I tend to favor lighter scantlings, but for more rigorous duty, heavier construction may be justified.

However, rather than simply increase plating thickness, you might get similar results by adding a few more internal stiffening members instead.

An appealing possibility on metal boats is tanks integral with the hull, which is acceptable for diesel fuel but not gasoline. Because the hull shell plating provides one or more of the tank sides, and internal tank members can double as hull stiffening members, such tanks can save material and add capacity without taking up more room. First, tanks might be of such a size or located in such a position that welding tight seams all around the perimeter is difficult if not impractical.

Second, because full welds are required, there is a greater chance of heat buildup and ultimate hull plating distortion. Finally, special consideration must be given at the intersections of tank ends, hull stiffening members, and internal tank baffles when required.

Attempting to fit and weld tank ends tightly around stiffeners that pass through the tank is tedious if not impossible. Instead, hull stiffeners should stop at tank ends, with similar members cut and fitted inside, or with internal baffles installed in line with such stiffeners as substitutes and to maintain continuity. Conversely separate tanks built outside the hull are physically easier to manipulate during assembly and welding, easier to test and assure integrity, easier to repair or replace, and not as likely to suffer damage in a collision.

Aluminum tank thickness is sometimes shown as a function of tank capacity such as the following:. To 50 Gals:. However, for practical purposes, most tanks should be at least. Thicker tanks also require less stiffening, and since plating material is usually suitable, no special thinner stock need be ordered as might be implied from the above list.

Also provide striker plates or doublers on the bottom under sounding tubes if being used to prevent damage to the inside of the tank. All tank tops should be canted, sloped, or cambered so condensation or moisture will drain off the tops. Tanks can be made out of the same material used for the hull plating , , etc. Special computer-aided design programs coupled with numerically-controlled cutting equipment have made it possible to literally pre-cut all the components of a metal boat to precise size and shape in kit form ready for final welding assembly.

However, for successful results, a skilled boat designer familiar with the material and fabrication techniques, along with the ability to operate the software to within exacting tolerances is a prerequisite. Otherwise, as they say, a miss can be as good as a mile. If one major component is not spot-on, you could waste a lot of costly metal quickly and perhaps assemble a boat that could be so inaccurate as to suffer severely performance-wise. But done right, the system has inherent appeal since such boats should be easier and faster to assemble.

Is this technology suitable for the do-it-yourselfer building just one boat? It depends. The ability to provide such a technologically-advanced product does not come cheap. For the production builder, the higher design and development costs will be amortized over a great number of boats. And the labor savings would no doubt make up the investment manifold over time. Second, facilities for pre-cutting metal boats are currently far and few between, and not all have equal capabilities and expertise when it comes to boats.

Third, if a do-it-yourselfer is not near such a facility assuming a design is available , shipping costs can be prohibitive on just a single unit. Finally, although there are some designs available often because a builder gives up his design rights for one reason or another , design choices are minimal. A design where you build from scratch and cut out your own parts may take somewhat longer to build, but will be the low-cost alternative.

And there are countless stock plans to choose from, many at a low cost. One-off Versus Production Building Methods � Similar Results, But Different Approaches Required The would-be do-it-yourself aluminum boatbuilder already familiar with aluminum often has his roots in a non-marine production fabrication setting.

Framed Boat Advantages for Do-It-Yourself Builders Using a frame substructure for setting up your hull has several advantages for the do-it-yourselfer typically working alone. Some Considerations On Changing From Steel To Aluminum Aluminum is not as strong as steel so some compensations must be made if using it in place of steel.

A Practical Rule Of Thumb Converting from steel to aluminum is fairly straight-forward mainly because the members used are much the same in configuration and the methods of design and construction are similar. Comments are closed. Connect with us:. Customer Builds.

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