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JDN , Dec 29, There are rules that fishing boats have to comply to in different areas and countries. Do your designs comply with any of them? You want to build it to a rule, bring cash and have at it.

Nice looking' boats, Sir. Let's see more! Of course they would comply with any and all requirements. Of course?

You are not telling me which rules do they comply with. To get insurance that is the reason for classification, right? If one has the classification society's inspector along for the ride, including ABS, there is a cost. The guy is in North Carolina designing boats. Do you think he's going with a Japanese or Iranian standard? No, The boats will be sold then inspected by an underwriter's representative a surveyor that has somewhat proven himself , the surveyor will have a peeve about wanting safety wire on rudder bolts or a sign that says "head pump-out valve normally closed", or whatever, then the new owner goes fishing.

I don't believe there exists a A1 or E3 rating like Loyd's used to have anymore anyway. You pass, or there are deficiencies, then you correct them. Then they might further class for special circumstances or equipment. The reputable societies are likely all very similar by agreement anymore, otherwise there would still be excess "class-hopping". Why do you always try to make things difficult?

Are you just trying to sound like you know what you are talking about? Nice lookin' boats, Sir. Can we yet see inside, machinery layout, holds, etc.? The reason to comply is to be able to register a vessel or using for whatever you are planning to. The design has to comply with the designated use.

Classing societies are not very similar, reputable has nothing to do with it. The surveyor will make sure the boat complies, but unless you designed it to, the modification will be prohibited. For example, for the USCG to inspect under Chapter T, the builder has to provide plans showing it complies before the build starts. Thanks Mark. Tons and not T boats, the regs are a bit different.

As long as the designs are presented to a builder by a certified Naval Architect or proven designer, there is usually no further undertaking by any agency, etc. Of course the person who buys the boat would most likely have it gone over by an underwriter and surveyor and then all the necessary criteria for insuring it would be met.

JDN , Dec 30, How exaspirating. Sir, Are the rudders drawn to scale? I also, at the same time, went to a smaller rudder, more hydrodynamic, and faired my keel to a knife edge in the back for improved flow, and got rid of the rudder shoe.

My fuel economy has improved greatly but I find I am always nervous when maneuvering around lines. I intend to put a small line guard but the internally supported rudder is fantastic!

If the side lights are mounted where they are are in the drawing, I feel that they will glare into the pilot house. I like the modern look of the reverse transom. I like that the shear doesn't break hard and that most of the curve is in the back third of the boat. I think the little cabin swoop looks good but will make the cockpit less functional on the pleasure model.

I am not a fan of the forward raked windows on the commercial models but understand why you do them. Plenty of stock designs out there. Gardner has plenty, for example. But for the kind of work you describe a boat with vertical topsides no flare allows you to stand up right at the side of the boat. Much easier to haul a dredge, pull a rake, etc.

There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it. It's been a tank, and gets used for all sorts of work, like this morning we ran 2 hours worth of water samples over 10 miles of lake.

My hesitation was that she doesn't look like a rower. Have you rowed yours at all? As a straight powered work boat, I can't think of a design that makes much more sense. It gets rowed as a shoreline work boat, and also I use the oars for a trolling motor when I'm trolling for trout or moving the shoreline casting the docks for bass. In fact, a couple weeks ago, I was rowing with lbs of human load and she pulls reasonably well. Trick I've found is to set your oarlocks relatively far forward so that you weight the bow and keep the forefoot wet, while picking up as much weight at the transom as possible.

The Sport Skiff with the deeper rocker is the better rower, so build that one. You won't be racing with the rowing shells, but it pulls just fine.

I figured I'd rather not have them if building this boat but wondered about stiffness. I'm also curious about the transom height. You had expressed some concern over that and I wondered if you've had any trouble. You even talked about a well. Did you go that route or is the motor still transom mounted?

Wow- lot of questions. I like your boat. Never even seen one in the flesh,but from your requirements,i would say she would fit the bill,and the budget perfectly.

She's stiff enough as-is, though I think I'm going to add another thickness of rubrail eventually. Not because it needs to be stronger per se, but because I am really hard on it and I used Spruce so it is taking a beating.

I'll probably add a layer of fir or mahogany, whatever I have laying around. Transom height is fine, I did the short shaft cutout because it's a lake boat. For bay work, I'd go long shaft or put a well on it. Never shipped much water, but where we crab it might be best to have the protection of a splashwell. Keep in mind that's not well mounting the outboard, just a little addition to the front of the transom so if any water slops in, it drains back out.

I'd never consider putting an outboard well in it, it's too small of a boat. Re: Small-Scale Commercial Fishing Boat Bolger 18' Work Skiff A big advantage is being able to work and stand right on the outside of the deck reaching straight down over the vertical sides.

The design was intended for inshore lobster fishing. Re: Small-Scale Commercial Fishing Boat I actually blew up the lower unit on that 30 this winter it wasn't in deep enough water and night temps were 14F , so I'm now running a The 25 is a better motor and it can haul 4 lb adults in the boat without an issue. It planed just fine and didn't lose much top speed. My 25 is currently pushing a 14' aluminum hull which probably is fine for pleasure uses, but for commercial uses the LYS seems hard to beat.

It sure looks like a big 16' boat. The motor I have now has a 20'' shaft so might work well for a nice high transom. Did you use double sided MDO or single sided? I wonder if there would be a problem using double sided- glue adhesion? Thanks -Aaron. Originally Posted by potomac. Blue crabs, which are my favorite type of fishing, are a possibility.

Simpler is better, except when complicated looks really cool. As I stated above, I'm probably better off trying to ply the tourist trade, or better yet- leaving what I enjoy alone so I continue to enjoy it. I just have felt such a feeling of satisfaction pulling bounty from the sea.

I guess making a little living at it appeals to me in the same way, but making the numbers work is really tough. Re: Small-Scale Commercial Small Commercial Fishing Boat Plans Guide Fishing Boat I used double sided on the sides and single sided with the wood sides glued together for the transom. Originally Posted by Paul Pless. I understand this and agree with you completely. I just know, from watching other folks try it, that its super hard work and profitability is touch and go.

I took a year sabbatical, seven years ago and lived there and worked on her farm a few days a week and spent mornings and evenings on the sound. Originally Posted by hokiefan. I have thought off and on the fishing, crabbing, and shrimping the waters around Savannah could Small Commercial Fishing Boat Plans Co be an enjoyable retirement career. One where profitability didn't really matter. I imagine though that I'm more likely to just play around on the water for fun.

Cheers, Bobby. USA Posts 6, Re: Small-Scale Commercial Fishing Boat If you really want to work in shallow draft waters, it might be worth while to consider a jet drive outboard motor. They don't come less than 40HP e. We have shrimp and fish out the ying-yang not that I can seem to catch any so this was to be a means of survival if things got really bad.

I say "almost" because the flare in the sides do not help in lifting traps and such over the sides. Edit to add--I rigged a system for rowing in an emergency but I've not needed it nor tried it.

I use thole pins set into rod holders in the side decks, and the 9 foot oars from my Goat Island Skiff. I believe I would row it while standing and facing forward since the console sits where I would need to be positioned for sit-down rowing in the conventional manner. Join Date Nov Posts 4, What a neat looking boat.

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