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How to Protect Aluminum Boats in Saltwater | Boating Magazine

It is currently:. Last visit was: Wed Apr 07, pm. Post by steve-r � Sun May 02, pm. Post by steve-r � Wed May 05, am. Post by goatram � Wed May 05, am. Post by Bob � Wed May 05, pm. Post by steve-r � Thu May 06, am. Post by Jay Perrotta � Thu May 06, pm. Post by Chaps � Thu May 06, pm. Post by steve-r � Fri May 07, problems with aluminum hull boats up. Post by pjay9 � Fri May 07, pm. Quick links. Aluminum hull sound-proofing General boating discussion.

Aluminum hull sound-proofing Post by steve-r � Sun May 02, pm Curious minds want to know :- The hypotheses is: Aluminum hulls, while lighter, stronger, etccan be noisier than that other stuff Some mfg'rs spray foam, and we have the separate spray or not to spray polyurethane vs polystyrene discussion. Some mfg'rs lay in soundproofing panels I think Ironwood references this approach on their site. I can appreciate thinner gauge hull material may be more susceptible to flexing and noise.

Re: Aluminum hull sound-proofing Post by steve-r � Wed May 05, am lotsa views, no opinions? Re: Aluminum hull sound-proofing Post by goatram � Wed May 05, am Steve I know what oil canning is and I have road in a Smokercraft 20' with the.

My Northriver 21' is a lot quieter by far. It has no flotation and came with plywood floors. It does make some noise though it is something that I can live. Your question is kinda vague. Are you asking the question as a user or as a builder? Foam as you stated has the corrosion issues. Cut the weight of the boat by using less alloy in the right areas and problems with aluminum hull boats up increase the capacity, decrease the complexity of the build, and save money.

You require a quiet boat a plastic one might be the right fit for you. Ease of maintenance and good looks are important then get a alloy one. I hope I helped, otherwise disregard. Re: Aluminum hull sound-proofing Post by steve-r � Wed May 05, am nope, not a builder. Mostly because its so lightand the flat problems with aluminum hull boats up, it bounces across the top of waves and doesn't cut thru them so.

Re: Aluminum problems with aluminum hull boats up sound-proofing Post by Bob � Wed May 05, pm Personally I don't see much need for sound insulation on a small boat. I haven't really heard any first hand positive experiences problems with aluminum hull boats up these products but at the boat show, a thick coating of Silent Running SR did dull the sound on a piece of metal he had on display. At the same boat show, a very reputable builder said that they have tried all the coatings and they don't do.

I think it would at least take the "Tinnyness" out of the boat. I was tempted to do the underside of my decks but it didn't seem worth the hassle.

It really comes down to cost. If you want to spend the bucks you can make an alloy boat as quiet as any glass boat. I happen to like the perforated aluminum headliners with sound absorbing foam behind. Supposedly the sound travels through the perforations and is then trapped in the foam. I was in a 6x8' pilot house that had the perforated headliner, acoustic panels on the walls, with a thick rubberized floor covering and you could carry on a conversation and it was almost eerie because there was zero echo.

The only reason I have been soundproofing my boat, is so I don't have to get up to pee every 5 minutes from the sound of water lapping at the hull and rain dripping onto the problems with aluminum hull boats up arounds and cuddy. Re: Aluminum hull sound-proofing Post by Jay Perrotta � Thu May 06, pm Steve, As you point out we are discussing polyurethane foam in another thread but the substance speaks directly to your question.

When in an open, plate-built alloy boat I don't find the need for sound-proofing very high. The wind noise, engine noise etc makes the hulls sounds pretty unnoticeable. At rest the wave slap is more noticeable than GRP but nothing annoying or troublesome.

The only place I would see a problem would be in something like a flats boat where the noise might scare fish. On the other hand if you have an enclosed alloy boat where you are going down below - especially underway, the noise of an uninsulated alloy hull is significant and bothersome.

In our Rock Salt 34' the boat is uninsulated but open. Underway and on a drift there is no "problem" with noise problems with aluminum hull boats up the hull.

It does have a stand-up head in the console and when you go in there underway it is quite noisy. Doesn't really matter if you are going to the bathroom for 3 minutes but were it an enclosure meant to take a nap or prepare a meal it would have to be insulated I would problems with aluminum hull boats up. Since polyurethane foam is the only substance that meets USCG flotation requirements and does a problems with aluminum hull boats up job at sound mitigation it makes sense to use the stuff for sound deadening and get some added flotation.

Just my 2 cents Re: Aluminum hull sound-proofing Post by Chaps � Thu May 06, pm If you look closely at the pic in my sig you can see that the inner hull sides on my LaConner have problems with aluminum hull boats up stiffening ribs and the Edwing doesn't.

The LaConner is very quiet for an alloy boat running through chop, the Edwing is pretty noisy. Re: Aluminum hull sound-proofing Post by steve-r � Fri May 07, am Jay, I'm thinking more walkaround pilothouse style than open. I guess the only time it would really matter is if you're actually trying to sleep. Chaps, your comparison says its back to design and construction Re: Aluminum hull sound-proofing Post by pjay9 � Fri May 07, pm Speaking of noise my Raider has a swish swoosh singing sound under way that isn't always there and really have not figured when it really happens.

It seems to be when it moves up and down thru chop or a little bit of porpoising. When I problems with aluminum hull boats up at the hull the lifting streaks are skip welded the whole length My solution This topic is interesting and I saw a demo of the paint on stuff on a hunk of metal and it seemed to work, but the cost was not worth it.

On my old Charter boat the engine room had not sound barrier, so i went to the Boeing surplus store and found some aircraft barrier It was a roll of vinyl that was heavy and impregnated with lead and other stuff. It blocked the sound. I even covered the intakes and left it like a flap, so it could move freely as air for the engine increased the opening got bigger yet blocked the path of the sound somewhat Capt PJ.

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Afterwards request a little anti-corrosion problems with aluminum hull boats up to support defense a outward of a vessel. For some-more info (pictures, during any time. If it is black ABS siren we will find any equipmentCatamaran engineer as well as builder, they would have been worth rsther than some-more. We can inspect as well as try out all opposite structure strategies. Recognised as the engine soldieror the Mayflower in the Bottle.

Love this stuff, I used it on 24 Crestliner Sabre HT, plugging old transducer screw holes inn the transom with never a problem. As far as the anode thing, If your boat is a trailer queen, or if you don't use shore power, I wouldn't bother.

Gasoline is non-conductive. If any sits in the bildge a galvanic cell will be created. When you get it fixed, keep the bildge dry. Very important to check all grounds. When i lifted the foam, underneath there was a white residue like a calcium deposit or something. It was only where the foam was, down the middle of the hull there was no foam and it just has the little pits in that area.

In the second picture where the corrosion is happening, that is where all the white stuff was. Looks like a bingo. The white stuff was most probably aluminum oxide which is its predominant corrosion product. You're going to have to clean it well, dry it then protect it. Do a search on aluminum corrosion protection. I don't know how your gas tank is set up but mine is a permanent one mounted in the bow.

The rubber gas line had been run beneath the floorboard in the foam. I had to replace it when I smelled gas one day while uncovering the boat. What I did was run the new hose thru a cemented PVC pipeline, with 45 deg elbows on the ends, above the floorboard, tight to the bulkhead. Prevention rather than cure.

If you have a portable tank i. When I installed new foam, I laid it so it only rested on the ribs, allowing almost an inch between the foam and the. This allowed air to circulate and water to run all the way to the transom drain and bilge, without obstruction. This may sound stupid but I didn't plan on putting foam back in unless it's for strength. If its only to keep boat afloat incase it flips I don't care, I will be swimming in.

Shore is a lot further away than it looks!!! If the water is cool or worse yet cold you won't get to far. The idea is to climb out of the water on the hull so you don't get hyperthermic.

The water dosen't have to be very cold to do this. Foam in a boat is more for keeping the boat somewhat afloat in case you get swamped not if you flip.

The object of the plastic is in case the foam does get wet, it won't sit against the hull as it dries. If it ever dries. I never plan on swimming, I would probably just float till I hit shore. Seriously though, that's no joking matter. Thanks guys. There is also the legal aspect and the insurance coverage to think of. Never mind the cost of having to raise the sunken boat from the bottom and having to have it brought to port,which are things that you have to do by law.

On another note, if you use a good pourable foam that produces closed cells, you don't have to use plastic to cover the bottom and you will have a much safer boat which is nice if you want to bring your wife and kids on board. Enough said I never thought of the unsinkable boat part, especially with the corrosion. Is there anywhere locally to get this foam and what is it called? Thanks guys, I just can't wait to get it done!

Sooner the better, the niagara is calling my name. West Marine carries it. You mix it and poor it. It really expands once it is mixed and poored. Make sure it has room to expand. I just had a hull repair done and filled it with foam last night.

West Marine has it, but you will overpay for it. I found it at Clark Craft in Tonawanda for a fraction of the price. I had pretty good results. They say optimum temperature is degrees for application. I set the bottles next to a space heater to keep them warm so I didn't have to heat the entire shop.

They say heating Part A in a microwave will work too, but I didn't like that idea. Clark Craft sells measuring cups, you'll need at least 2 of them and a lot of disposable mixing containers.

I used 12 oz plastic drinking cups. I used oz each in the 12 oz mixing cup and that is about all you'll fit. You'll need room in the cup for mixing and some expansion. To mix it, I cut a paint mixing stick to 4", taped it to a wooden dowel and put it in a cordless drill. Pour Part B into your mixing cup, then Part A Part A is the accelerator , and mix fast until it turns milky and starts to bubble.

It is pretty simple, but you have to work fast. The small portions make it time consuming. I tried a few larger batches 5 oz each to speed it up, but it is harder to control and I ended up with a few high spots that will have to be cut down.

What are you using to go back in for a floor? I was considering plywood coated in resin. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. View New. Search In. Where Not to launch this week? Purchasing new boat HELP! Changing out a roller tip on a Shimano roller rod.

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Fishing Log Keep catch records. LO Outdoors Fishing Magazine. May Jun Jul Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2. A more fundamental question is whether such a boat is a good buy.

If not, you could be looking at a refit that will cost more than a new boat if you pay someone else to do it, or that will take several years if you do it yourself and still cost a lot of money.

I understand your reluctance to blow too much of the cruising kitty on a boat, but I would still look carefully at either a new production aluminum boat probably from France or Holland or a bare aluminum hull and finish it out yourself. Either option could, in the end, be less costly than an older boat. Incidentally, I would not even think about home-building a hull; way too much work for the rewards.

Learn About Membership. John was born and brought up in Bermuda and started sailing as a child, racing locally and offshore before turning to cruising. He has skippered a series of voyages in the North Atlantic , the majority of which have been to the high latitudes.

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