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Click on "Newer Post" to see later episodes. Argie plywood dinghy build 5g hull skin panels. This design is drawn in metric and has inch dimensions added. Argie 15 built by Nick Fairley in Cape Town. See a video of his maiden sail. Essentially a 3 in 1 dinghy, she can be rowed, sailed or powered by an outboard motor of up to 7,5kw output.

She is more than the normal 3 in 1 dinghy in that it was considered from the start that she may be used as a dinyhy cruiser. Most dinghies have no areas long enough for an plywood dinghy build 5g to stretch out full length for sleeping but the ARGIE 15 has 1,9m of clear length, sufficient for most people.

The addition of removable slatted floorboards builr your boat will lift you out of any water lying in the bottom while sleeping. A canvas or plastic sheet over the boom and tied to eyes along the gunwhales will give protection from the elements. The result is a minimum cruiser for use on protected waters. She has also been designed to make maximum use of the advantages of plywood to give a light and easily builld boat which is well within the capabilities of the average DIY enthusiast.

The construction method used is stitch and glue which eliminates most of the framing normally used in boat construction and results in very light structural weight.

The weight of a completed hull is approximately 60kg, making her suitable for car topping on extended roof racks. She will, however be more easily handled plywood dinghy build 5g a trailer.

By normal dinghy standards, the mast is robust and fairly heavy. This is because the sailing rig has been designed to be uncomplicated to set up and easy to control, plywood dinghy build 5g a minimum of fittings. The mast tube comes from one extrusion, cut in half so as to fit inside the hull for storage.

For those wanting to customise their boats to suit their own use, there are numerous possibilities. These include floor boards, customised tent, foot straps and plywood dinghy build 5g the side seats right round the hull these are not covered in the drawings.

As drawn, she is about as much boat as can come from six sheets of plywood. The extension of plywood dinghy build 5g side seats will buile an additional sheet and will limit the sleeping width a bit.

However, the extra bouyancy which results will make Build A Dinghy From Plywood University for easier righting in the event of a plywood dinghy build 5g and make her more comfortable for sailing.

The ARGIE 15 is a good family construction project, with surprisingly good sailing performance and the ability to plywood dinghy build 5g a lumpy sea. It has also been built with thicker plywood to produce a robust little boat for small scale commercial fishing or working lobster traps. Plans and full size patterns are supplied as paper prints by mail. They can be supplied as PDF files by email, for viewing on a computer and local buuild.

Patterns require a plotter that has a roll mm 36" wide. Select Email as the shipping option during the order process. If the Argie bbuild is too large for you, look at the Dixi Dinghy and Argie 10 stitch and glue dinghies.

If you are looking for a smaller but more challenging project, see the Challenger 13 lapstrake dinghy. Read an independent review of the Argie Follow this link to print or download a material list for this design. You will also find answers to questions about construction in our FAQ pages. LOA 4. Beam 1.

Draft 0. Sail Area 9. Max power 7.

Main points:

I adzed off a crawl massage strips after as the outcome of they were proceed trite as well as a planling could be really thick any way plywood dinghy build 5g, work jobs.

Over a past Twelve months or some-more I have been operative inside of a credentials with the garland of associates from a Philippines bild prepare the tiny scale sailmaking bureau.

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Have to measure it now you tell me there were 2 variants. It is pretty flexy but I think that's hard to avoid. I cut off the stupid raised ribs, they were damaged and the foam core was breaking down anyway.

Current plan is to lay some unidirectional glass into the moulded longitudinal ribs, top with polyethylene foam then use some of the scrap glass to get a flat sole except for the centre rib.

Shouldn't add much weight. If I find this one is annoying I'll keep an eye out for Plan C. Which is unlikely to be a deflatable, I'm too damn blase about running dinks up onto rocky beaches with oysters. Saves at least 8 from the designer's layup which is one layer of 6" tape and one layer of 8" tape inside and out.

Adapted from advice received from Zonker. Rear seat add a plywood crossbrace in the center to control twist. Closely Plywood Dinghy Build fit seats to transoms and bulkheads to minimize the size of brackets. Build brackets out of plywood in an H shape extending to the bottom of the hull to better transfer the load while reducing weight with the stern transom bracket also serving as a quarter knee to transfer the thrust from an outboard if fitted.

Total savings 4. Use a nylon bow cleat. I believe there is enough strength in the hull that these aren't necessary, because of the tops of the buoyancy compartments aft even with just glass and foam and the bow locker forward.

I believe this is the most functional arrangement that can be built with off-the-shelf hardware. Use Douglas Fir rather than sitka spruce for the gunwales and beams for reasons of local availability. Fir is stronger and denser in equal measure, so reduce dimensions accordingly to maintain strength and weight as designed.

Reduce the size of the stern transom doubler to 7x7". Extend the seat bracket sides now made of plywood upward to the gunwales to form a transom brace. Adjust the stern gunwale dimensions. All this adds maybe 8 ounces and will be much stronger for dealing with the clamp load and torsional forces on the stern. Taper and shape the skegs to reduce weight and cross section forward while still retaining area for directional control and maintain cross section aft where dragging loads are present.

Inlay UV-resistant MDS-filled nylon skids in the aftmost 4" for easy damage-free dragging over sand, concrete, and asphalt. Run a 9" wide kevlar strip under the keel. Several builders have suggested reinforcement here for longevity. I've looked at alternatives for the bow locker. Yes, it's heavy, about 8. If removed, 1 of foam would be needed for flotation and the front seat would have to be extended increasing its weight by 3.

So removal would only be a net 4 savings. Could save 3 building it out of corecell and fiberglass but I don't think it's worth the cost and complexity. Based on the weights of other builds and an analysis of area and weight of the different pieces, I think this puts me right at 80 total of which 5 is the removable seats.

I am reminded that someone, maybe Gary Hoyt, added buoyancy and anti-tippiness to a dinghy by putting a string of foam flotation along the gunnels. Something like rope floats would do. They would also act as fenders when snuggling up to the mother ship. Can you link to some images that show the interior geometry? I'm assuming you will use 6mm Okoume for the hull. That can vary from about 21 to 24 pounds per sheet, so 3 sheets can make a pretty big difference.

Usually a unit of ply all weighs roughly the same, so no sense taking your scale when buying. I built a PT 11 using 4 mm for the upper hull over half the surface area of the hull.

It was much more challenging to build, substantially weaker, and removed only about 6 lbs. Here are a couple of photos. I'm not sure of the sources. The first one has a modified transom doubler, a modified Plywood Dinghy Build Ltd hatch, and no aft seat.

There is also an extracurricular doubler for the towing eye, plans only have one on the inside:. This one is more faithful to the plans showing the hatch, seats, and seat supports more or less as drawn:.

They're easy to flip into the boat where they are more or less out of the way for trailering or fishing. Pretty sure it's Richard Woods that has the floats along the outside of the gunnels on one of his dinghy designs. We built one of his Crayfish designs about 19 years ago from a sketch in Multihulls Magazine. I think it's 4mm lightly tortured occume, glassed on the outside, epoxy everywhere.

Thin ply works great if you can twist some shape into it. The penetration resistance isn't great, but it's really easy to repair.

I'd originally ruled it out because I think it's too small for my situation. I want either a 10' pram design or 11' with a pointed bow for reasons of capacity and stability. I don't see the two-paw as being an especially lightweight design. In your build thread you said that the spec was 80 for the 8' version. As far as length, indeed, the B and B Two-Paw 9 is the longest.

Graham also designed the Spindrift to be nesting - the Spindrifts being their pointy bow smaller dinghy line. Within reason, of course. But you can literally hit it with a hammer and it can withstand the blow. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead.

Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. Dinghy build questions: layup strength, foam vs plywood. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Posted March 7. Other than the arrival of competing projects, there were several interrelated reasons I had hesitated to build it: Local unavailability of truly suitable materials for spars, short of buying timber on the stump or paying boutique coastal prices plus truck freight.

It's too heavy, with most builders ending up with a boat weighing over pounds. I'm looking for straightforward ways to lighten up the materials on Chameleon. Here's what the stock design weighs, more or less, based on my calculations. There are several obvious-to-me areas for significant weight savings: The design of the seats and brackets can be lightened up without changing materials by careful contouring of the dimensional wood.

That's easy, lots of choices. Using thinner plywood. Using it throughout would save about 17 at the cost of some strength. The strength could perhaps be made up by switching to one layer of 6 oz. S-glass for the hull and vacuum bagging, which would add back roughly 3 , still a net savings of Using foam such as Divinycell or Core-cell A in place of plywood in areas that are noncritical and flat, such as the seats, buoyancy boxes, and bow deck.

This would save 12 over 6mm plywood or 8 over 4mm plywood. Maybe save another 3 , though the seats are removable so it's not clear how much this helps in practice. All together that's 30 , which means a 70 boat instead of a boat. Link to post Share on other sites. Zonker 2, Posted March 7. It uses: - single layer 4" wide x 9 oz tape for the seams. It rows very well. And it is light. Notice there is very little boat in the water.

Use a light, strong wood like western red cedar for all solid wood. Fah Kiew Tu 2, Posted March 7. WetSnail 15 Posted March 7. SemiSalt Posted March 7. Step by step instructions on how to build a wooden boat for fishingThis video shows you how we built ours and it floats very well.

The basic flat-bottomed boa Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with Build A Dinghy From Plywood Year friends, family, and the world on YouTube. Paddle Board We received many requests for a very stable hull that has the safety attributes of a Sit On Top, is easier to build, and can easily be customized. But - consider making yours a tad larger for stability.

I wanted mine to fit in the back of my car but it would be more useful if it was larger. Good luck!! Hello, I really liked your project, I would like to make a boat, but for me it was not very clear the measurements, what is the length, width and height?

I would be very grateful if you can tell me these measures. Reply 1 year ago. Question 1 year ago. Hello, we are trying this now, but are a bit puzzled about the dimensions shown on the sheet that you marked out. It looks like the bottom is shorter than the sides, whereas, it would need to be slightly longer to enable it to curve up around the sides. Can you clairfy? Answer 1 year ago.

Hey there! Thank you for checking out the instructable and your question. You seem to have found an error I made. Sorry about that! I have updated with a new picture with more accurate dimension. When I made it, I had no plan and just freehanded it. The sides is a tad shorter than the bottom. I will add that to the instructable text.

Please note that I also made the sheet shorter a full sized sheet is cm long. But If you try to make this, use the entire length for a larger vessel more stability. Hope this helps - and sorry again! Thank you for pointing this out to me and good luck! Wow this was awesome man!

I loved it. I don't know what it is, but I love homemade small boats! I know there are places out there that sell plans for wooden sail boats, etc. I think you will find that silicone is not such a great idea. It tends to fail in boating uses. Perhaps a couple of tubes of a good marine caulk - adhesive would last a lot longer. Also instead of cutting half way through to bend a bit of steam or even boiling water on rags would make that plywood bend easily for you.

The seat is actually vital as it helps keep the sides of the boat from collapsing inward. But you just might love to build an identical second unit such that the two can be easily clamped together thus forming a larger vessel. Reply 2 years ago. Hello there! Sorry for my late reply. Thank you for your insights. I will consider them in my next boat build. I have some additions to make first to this one I think I will drop an anchor in the shallow water so I dont need to worry about them paddling too far out.

Question 2 years ago. Answer 2 years ago. Hello and thank you for your question!

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