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So, moisture that forms on the inside of a housewrap will be trapped as effectively as the housewrap excludes water penetration from the outside. House is tight and well insulated. But, the siding needs replacing and we're doing the windows while at it. So, we're looking at options to claw back some of the insulation lost to the siding while avoiding too much of a moisture or water vapor barrier.

There don't seem to be any ready solutions. If anyone has been through this and found one for a cold climate home I'd love to hear how it turned out for them! Matt � You are certainly facing a situation that many home owners face. What type should I use? I have a sump pump down there because sometimes have water. Typically crawl spaces benefit nicely from foil faced polyiso foam board. Here is my question.

We have the foil backed insulation board on the bottom half of our walls in the basements. We have recently put in batting type insulation over the foil backed insulation board. We were recently told that we should remove the batting insulation as it will produce moisture between the two insulations.

Is this true? What are your recomendations. I hope this make sense. The batts could be a problem depending on the details. First off how thick is the foam board? Are all the seams taped? Todd, we are just starting to build a new house in Michigan. So, a little foam actually can do more harm than no foam. Am I correct? Can I use both methods? That may be more manageable for him�. Laura � Thanks for stopping by this site. Your builder probably panicked as this is such a new concept to him.

All of his concerns are valid, however, they area all manageable with proper details. All of the joints in the foam should be sealed well. Todd, thanks for sharing your knowledge on this subject. I am a contractor preparing to renovate a house with homasote sheathing.

We want to avoid air and insect penetration. Michele � Can you put an extension on the sill plate, then trim the bottom of the extension with a PVC trim board after caulking the joints? That would probably work pretty well. Any preference on Dow vs. Owens Corning vs Celotex? These are great comments. I am renovating it and just took down the plaster and lathe. I plan to install sheetrock attached to the furring strips. It never had any insulation.

What product do I use to get some kind of wall insulation? Do I have to stud this out further somehow to get the thickness I need or be happy with some sort of foam insulation panel Which type do you recommend that gets me only a R-5 or so wall and will get this passed the building inspector and this is a permitted project.

Any help would be great!! Mark � Well it really does depend on where you live and what Energy Code if any is in effect. After that you can come up with a plan of attack. Mike � Sounds like a big project. Couple of thoughts about your situation. First off are you looking to do all this work yourself or with contractors?

For new construction including an addition I would consider having a contractor come in and fill the wall cavities with blown in dense pack cellulose insulation. I guess I would lead towards applying the foam on the outside of the house. You should use a closed cell foam specially designed to be installed under siding. Hello Todd. Your website is fantastic!! To do this, I had to remove the shiplap tongue and groove siding.

Can foam board insulation be used instead of batts of fiberglass? Can I use the foam board cut to fit between the studs for insulation and then re-install the lap siding directly to the studs? I could also use the spray foam Great Stuff comes to mind to seal the gaps between the foam and the studs. I would assume a layer of Tyvek house wrap should also be installed before the siding is replaced. Kim � Foam board insulation can be used anywhere fiberglass can be used.

Another solution would be installing foam directly over the old siding then installing new siding. This creates great insulation value but it does require some special details at doors and windows to address the added thickness.

Good luck! We do not have access from the inside without tearing out sheetrock. And since we had to remove siding to repair the damaged sill and also termite damage I thought we would just insulate from the outside rather than tear out sheetrock on the inside.

Sheetrock may be cheaper, but it is a lot quicker and easier to just remove all the siding rather than try to get behind tubs and kitchen counters and, and, and�.. Is that required? Kim � Your proposed method will work just fine, and yes you should use a house wrap. Best of luck. I started building a room in the basement. Part of the basement is above ground and was insulated with fiberglass. We moved back some of the insulation and found mold! In the process of removing and cleaning with vinegar.

So would thick xps work well with the areas that are above ground as well? Is this stuff a fire hazard if not covered with drywall? I was hoping to leave the above ground walls open in the unfinished area of the basement for easier insect and mold inspection.

Chris � Foam will work well there as well. Frankly foam board will be no more of a fire hazard than fiberglass. Good luck.

My contractor is installing what looks like polyiso panels 1. Jazz � First off the foam can be sealed very well with the right type of tape.

There are many tapes on the market now that stick very well.. Secondly there are lots of folks out there that argue about Tyvek or house wrap over foam board insulation under siding. I say make your decision based on sleeping well at night. Another quick question about siding selection. Jazz � Frankly you want to keep the water away from the framing. In my opinion there is a huge difference in siding products.

That extra bit really makes a big difference in performance especially in climates with large temperature swings like here in the North East. Any recommendations on how to insulate around or behind an existing electrical panel and wall mtd water heater? Do you actually try to get the insulation behind these items, or do you just get as tight as possible to them?

The finished areas will be conditioned, and the unfinished areas will not be conditioned. It is somewhat insulated from the outside since there is a slab on grade installed at the top of the wall. As far as adhering the insulation, do you just use construction adhesive to install the foam boards, and if so, how do you hold them tight to the foundation wall?

Thanks for your time. In an existing situation most people would opt to insulate up to these type of utilities. Relocating or moving them would be a pretty costly task. I would recommend insulating all of the exterior walls. However, that wall will likely not get very cold so if water vapor from the interior space hits the foam it may not condensate.

You want things to be as continuous as possible. Sometimes you do need to apply some temporary shoring but not often with this product. Every state has different rules regarding energy codes. I would call your local building officials and inquire about it. Todd, What a neat website!! While I plan to use bat insulatin in the wall cavities, is there anything else I can or should do to improve the insulation effectiveness?

Would it be better to use an insulation board and if so, what kind would you recommend? Earnie � Hot climates like TX are a different animal compared to here in the north. I have an enclosed aluminum car hauler. There is about 2 inches between the roof and the bottom of the supports. Which would be the best kind of foam board to get and proper thickness? Foil faced or not? Which way should the foil face? Brian � is it curved? Most of the foil faced products are covered with foil on both sides.

The roof is arced yes. I would say it is arced about 2ft with a length of 8. That would leave about 1. Great site! In the past water has seeped in thru the joint cove? Can this be sealed? Digging up the floor and installing drain tiles is not an option. Thanks for your advice.

Mary � Before insulating you really should address the water issues. Interior French Drains are a great way to intercept and remove water from basements.

If and once you that then you can bring the insulation right down to the top of the drain, any water behind the foam will drop down into the drain. Hi Todd Great website and very helpful�I have a slight variation in insulating my basement interior walls. I was hoping you could provide some expert advise. A dehumidifier keeps the basement dry.

Does that sound like a reasonable plan? However, your system will probably work fine. Thanks for this informative site. The company I work for bought a large commercial building. My boss wants me to design some insulated covers that we can install in the winter the previous occupants just stapled up blue tarps and they said it was still freezing inside. My boss was thinking about making steel boxes and using foam board inside. The outside temperature regularly gets into the teens and single digits during the winter.

We will use a good diameter rubber tube seal between the boxes and the exterior walls. The boxes will be bolted down to compress the seal.

The boxes will be stored indoors when not in use. What R value of insulation do you think is right? Since the boxes will be metal, does it matter what direction any liners may face? Do you think open side of the box foam side should have a cover? Do you see any problems with this idea? Most commercial buildings have an R19 in the wall. I would only have steel on the outside and sides, leave the side facing the building with just exposed foil faced insulation.

The outside walls are a decorative type masonry block. I was thinking a little air gap would be good �? Hmmm, we may want to use a treated wood, or probably plastic, frame around the face of the box to mount the gasket.

The insulation could extend into this volume. Does that sound good? Making them slightly larger, having the foam extend slightly deeper than the box, and a gasket, should take care of it. In any case, this will be a lot better than blue tarps! Rich � I suggested the foil faced as a bit of safety insurance. Foil faced insulation should have a much better flame spread number than just foam board. Simple question I can find nowhere on the net.

The house floor is also un-insulated so we get a lot of moisture in the house after very rainy spells. Time has come to insulate the underside of the floor and I wanted to go with spray closed cell foam for its vapor barrier and insulating qualities�. Plus it will hide some ugly bits of framing, as this house was built out of what appears to be scrap wood from an earlier home. Is this ok to do and is a specific type of foam board more compatible with the spray foams?

For this application I would recommend at least 2 inches of foam. Under a crawl space I would prefer to use foil faced polyiso myself. I live in Madison, WI and I am converting a screened-in porch into a room. Because of the depths of the posts from the edge of the slab, I have framed the bottom section of the wall with 2x8s. That way the siding goes over the edge of the slab.

Then, so that I can leave the posts which are pretty and expensive exposed, I have framed the top half of the wall containing the windows with 2x4s. The ceiling rafters will be furred out to Does this make sense? Do I need house wrap for this? OVer or under the foam board?

But my big question is the walls. Can you put dense pack cellulose in those? Or would spray foam be better? House wrap is a good idea even with foam on the outside of the house. Over the foam. Thanks for your help. The one inch on the outside is to insulate the studs, break the thermal transferance or whatever you call it.

THere will be some kind of insullation inside the studs. Would that be better than spray in foam? Todd, I live in Michigan. I caulked and sealed the seams with tape. Then built stud 2 x 4 walls. Anyway, should I go with faced or unfaced fiberglass insulation? If building inspector requires the faced would that be an issue with double vapor barrier. I scrolled through all the above stories first but cant seem to find one that fits my situation.

I live in northeast Georgia summer hits 95 some times and winter goes down to freezing temps at times and I am looking to finish my basement aprox.

The exposed wall is already finished but the cement walls are not even close yet. The walls are already sealed and has no noticeable moisture issues. My question is�. I understand that it will certainly help with the temperature control in the rooms and I know it is recommended for that point alone but, is it against building codes to not install it as well prior to drywalling?

Brian � In many parts of the Country there are now energy codes in place that govern the level of insulation in homes. Having said that, I would imagine that down there the insulation value that might be required for a below grade basement would be substantially lower than it is up this way. In an effort to increase the R-value and decrease potential drywall sagging, I ran 1. I cut each panels to fit snuggly between rafters or furring strips however there are gaps although they are smaller than the plastic nozzle ox expanding foam cans.

Do I need to seal these gaps and if so, how? Maurice � for the most part I think your approach is pretty good. Small gaps are hard to deal with. You could tape at each rafter and overlap two pieces to completely seal it. We are looking to insulate our pole barn to knock off some of the cold air for winter use. Would you recommend insulation boards? I read that one of the concerns is with bugs that will want to burrow into the boards as this will also effect the insulating values plus not to mention the fact of housing for lots of bugs.

Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge on insulation. Donna � I think some insulation products will be attractive to bugs. Like Todd, I originally thought that bugs would hesitate to chomp on polyisocyanurate.

But experience suggests otherwise! Having added polyiso between studs in an admittedly inadequate exterior gable wall the studs were 2x4s, sideways I was intrigued a few months later to discover a pile of white foam bits at the back of a closet.

Closer investigation revealed carpenter ants emerging directly above and dropping off their cargo, chewed out from the inside of this insulation. Peter � Thanks for sharing�very interesting. Sounds like they found it was a good material to nest in. Can I sandwich two layers of foam board together to increase my R-value bewtween the rafters, I will leave an air space between the roof of in.

Rob � The approach will work. The thicker the foam you can install over the rafters the better it will perform. I too have similar insulation questions as above with the foam boards.

In order for that to happen moisture would have to pass through the drywall and paint. Most latex paints actually create a pretty good vapor barrier. I say use the foam! Anna � Are you doing this in an unfinished attic? I was gung ho on spray foam until a friend was concerned about overheating the shingles. Then I read that shingle color is more important than attic ventilation. Can a foil really reflect the heat enough that it stays behind the rigid foam and exits the ridge vent?

If I go with this idea, should I do anything to my gable wall? If you install the foam on the bottom of the rafters then air can still move from down low up to the ridge. Do you have a ridge vent?

Do you have soffit vents? If yes to both this approach will work well. I have a question about Blue Board insulation in a party wall. What is the NCR rating in such a situation?

Are there ways to improve the noise reduction? Does condensation occur between the properties? What if there is a bathroom on one side of the party wall? Alison � Can you be more specific about your questions? NCR rating? Noise is best handled with independent framing. Moisture should not be a problem with party walls. Bathrooms should not matter either. My bedroom over the garage is very cold.

Normally it is degree below the home temperature ie. It has big window which is covered by the blind shade. I get the early morning sun. In summer this room is boiling and in winter it is frigid cold. My garage walls are insulated and so the roof by the builder. My question is if I insulate the garage roof with foam board, will it help to make the overhead bedroom warm?

If so which one would be the best type eps, xps or the foil facing?. Appreciate your answer. Thanks Bal. Bal � Living space over garages are notoriously difficult to heat and cool. Are you planning on removing the ceiling to install additional insulation?

If so then I would use 2 inches of foil faced poly-iso over the bottom of the rafters so you can maintain ventilation. It would also help quite a bit if you can insulation the floor below.

Can you put foam insulation in the garage ceiling over drywall to gain better heat? We already have rolled insulation with paper backing in between the rafters, then drywalled.

If so, what would you recommend? It is over a bedroom that is on the North-East side of the house. Pat � You certainly could do that but you need to check on the fire rating of that assembly. While you still have a fire barrier behind it you now have a pretty flammable material exposed in the garage�. I am in a similar situation where the rooms above garage become freezing cold.

Adding another layer of drywall over foamboard, would mean taking out the existing garage opener, garage door railing and everything. Thaen there would be a problem of how to secure the second layer of drywall through the foamboard. That seems to be a lot of work. Is there a better, easier and affordable way to insulate the celing? Tariq � It may be possible to use a foil faced foam board.

The other thing is to focus on the ceiling in the space above as far more energy is lost through the ceiling compared to the floor.

I only have 3. I was thinking of polyiso because you get the most R-value for a limited space and we live in the Philly area so it does get cold. My concerns are with fire hazard, building code, and general effectiveness. Do you think the polyiso will work? Do you have any feedback?

Dylan � Can you install it over the fiberglass or are there floor boards over the existing fiberglass? It would be far easier if you install a layer of foam over the existing plus you get more insulating value that way. As far as the fire code it really depends on the use of the space and local codes. Preferably R49 or above. Stay away from the pink or yellow for health and indoor air quality reasons.

I hope this helps. Timm � That will work however he wants to be able to still walk on the floor, kinda hard to do with blown in fiberglass. I have and old house with double walls built out of lath which was covered by plaster. I am thinking of using foam in between the walls.

You know the type that comes in those spray cans. I wonder if that spray in foam is equal to extruded polystyrene in r value an permeability of water. Also if I use 4 by 8 polystyrene compared to the foam which is more economical?

First of all it would be cost prohibitive and secondly it would be hard to get consistent results. Important for people living in the north, such as Minnesota, is that the r value at 0 degrees F is 4. The R Value goes up as the temperature drops.

Also it is much more expensive. Nice site. I recently encountered a problem with foam board and the batt insulation on a below grade block wall. I had 1 inch pink board and glued it to the block wall taped it all off then put R batt insulation with plastic stappled it up for a vapor barrior.

All this was done in the fall and two days ago I had to access a drain pipe while doing some plumbing and the batt insualtion on the backside what was touching the pink board was soaking wet. I took all the batt down and the pink board looked as though it was sprayed with a garden hose. WE live in northern michigan so it does get cool it is a new home built last year� What should I do? Any help would be appriciated.

That vapor barrier stops moisture from the foundation concrete from getting into the framed wall assembly. So, the cold block wall can transfer that cool temperature through the foam. If any damp air gets into the wall cavity it now has the chance of that vapor turning into liquid condensate. At that point it gets trapped in there because of the poly you installed. So the solution really needs to involve more foam and avoiding the plastic outer barrier.

You may want to consider insulating it with just foam board to really eliminate the problem all together. I am trying to lessen the noise of people walking around on the hardwood floors upstairs while in the basement and was thinking that gluing some foam board insulation in the areas between the joists and then using Great Stuff to seal the cracks along the edges might do something to help.

Afterward I plan on doing drywall. What do you think of this? If it might help, what thinkness foam board would you recommend?

Any adice you could give would be appreciated. In essence I think you might amplify the sound. Then purchase some resilient channel to screw to the bottom of the joists. Only ONE leg of the channel gets screwed to the joists, the other leg is left loose. Then you screw sheetrock to that. The channel makes for a VERY good sound deadening detail. Would you recommend faced or unfaced fiberglass insulation? It really depends on the basement. I purchased a steel enclosed trailer and want to add insulation to the inside walls and roofs.

I am thinking aboutblue or pink foam board. Any suggestions? Does it need to be durable? How will you use it? Todd- I have a bedroom wall that is exposed to the attic area above my garage. I planned on just insulating with standard faced fiberglass batts. However air still will work its way through the fiberglass and to the bedroom wall. Is the wall a wall between a finished room and attic space?

Do you have access to both sides of the wall? If so I think I understand the situation. From the attic side, install the foam board, tape all the seams very well. Fill the stud bays with unfaced fiberglass. No vapor barrier. Sorry for the confusion�yes, wall between finished room and attic but only have access from attic side. If not, any ideas? Mike � Have you cut a whole in the wall to see what the wall section looks like? Before proceeding I would do that. Is it a row of brick, air space, sheathing, framing, plaster?

The more you know about the wall section the better of an insulation assembly you can use. Like Skip December 27, at pm I have also purchased a steel beam, enclosed cargo trailer. The trailer is smaller than I wanted, so the loss of even a few inches is critical.

The ceiling has a slight curve as well. I live in a 90 year old home with minimal insulation. The attic has a wooden tongue and groove floor, but no insulation. I do not want to remove the attic floor to insulate. I am concerned that I may trap moisture between the rigid board and the wood floor. Since I use this area for storage, I was thinking about putting plywood over the rigid board.

Your thoughts? With that foil faced foam you want the foil on the warm surface. Todd, another insulate the attic question. The attic I wish to insulate has minimal ventilation. It has two gable vents. If I wanted to insulate the rafters with fiberglass batts, would this create a moisture problem since there is little attic ventilation? Stan � Are you implying that you already have ceiling insulation and then you want to insulate the rafter bays above? Ventilation is essential to a properly functioning attic.

We have a third floor condo in Chicago with Cinder block-Firring strip Wall construction. Also would I need a vapor barrier when using rigid foam board? Thanks in advance. Ed � Are you planning on gutting the space and starting over? If so there are many different approaches. Can you explain the project further?

Hi Todd � Very good info here! I have a 90 year old home as well in NJ. The walk up attic has existing batt insulation under wood flooring partial original tongue and groove, partial plywood. The insulation is not consistent and looks dirty in places that I can see where the original wood is broken. The attic has a gable vent on either end; one with an exhaust fan. No insulation on the rafters and no soffit vents. The wooden door to the attic from a bedroom leads up an uninsulated stairway walls are plaster with lead paint to the attic.

How can insulate the door to the attic? Does the door qualify as a fire-stop, therefore allowing me to use foam board on the attic cold side? How can I insulate the walls of the stairwell, and effectively cover the lead paint and protect it from damage chipping in the future. Can I use foam board without covering with drywall, since its not in livable space, and behind the door? Was thinking about building up the floor with additional rafters and adding another floor since the roof is very high.

One follow up. Any tips for securing the foam to the painted plaster? All the informations are well said and helpful.

Full of information and this will help us a lot. Thanks for posting this one. We surely learned a lot about this. I am looking to use this XPS as a thermal break between the concrete floor in my basement and the subfloor. Is there a specific grade of XPS I should be considering for compressive strength?

Dick � The normally stocked XPS foam boards are fine unless you have a very heavy point load like a pool table. The front wall is completely below grade and the rear wall is above grade. The sides taper front to rear. I am finishing the gameroom side of the basement. I planned on insulating with fiberglass batts that are Kraft faced and have an R value. The home is 10 years old and has never had a moisture or humidity problem. I was extensively involved in construction and really do not anticipate any water problems in the future.

I have a concern about the space between the back of the studs and the block wall. Should I be concerned or do you think I will be okay as described. I wish I would have used the internet more during construction. I think I would have had more and better options before the walls were built. Thank you in advance. Jim � Check out my article on insulating basement walls which shows how I think it should be done.

I will install blue board between the studs then insulation over top. It will be to much work to take down the framed walls at this point. What about the walls that are completely above grade? Should blue board and fiberglas be installed on them as well? Jim � Plywood Boat Building Plans Growth You really should try to cut those walls free and slide them forward if you can. They will develop mold.

All the foundation walls are block. It will be nearly impossible to move the wall against grade because of a stair landing. If the stairs will slide on the landing I may try to move. Todd- Thank you for your help, unfortunately the wall that concerns me the most is the one that is hardest to deal with. Hopefully I can come up with a suitable solution. I am planning on using foam board for a slightly different approach.

The cabinet in the bar will need to be insulated to keep my already cold kegs from my basement kegerator outside while throwing a party. Is there a better foamboard to use? I will probably have some kind of tray or bucket to put ice on to help keep the kegs cold and so possble water will end up dripping on whatever foamboard I use under the floor of the cabinet.

For that price I can pretty much build a moveable bar, though maybe a bit rustic, with an insulated Plywood Boat Building Plans Free Pdf cabinet and a couple of cheap beer faucets coming out the front, serve by brew cold and not worry about F weather heating up my kegs when having some folks over.

Ted � Great idea! You can glue it all together. I think it would work great. The lining will help protect the foam from chipping, denting, etc and also make cleanup easier. We plan on installing solar panels and want the house to be very energy efficient.

Since the lower level will have the bedrooms and the concrete slab will be polished and left exposed, we want the floor to be as comfortable as possible no radiant only heatpump s. We plan on blowing in cellulose for the majority of the house, but would appreciate advice on insulating slab and exterior walls, plus roof i.

Flat roofs are best done with rigid foam above the structural deck and just below the membrane. I wish I would of found this site about 2 weeks ago. I have a all concrete room under my garage and I am planning on finishing this room. There is no duct heating in this room and it will be closed off. What do you recomend I do to best insulate this room. This room is 15 degrees colder then my unfinished basement. The rest of the basement is going to be my next project ofter this one. I forgot to mention that were in Ky which if very humid at times.

This room will be used for storage mostly but may be a office one day. Its about sq ft. Thought was to keep valuables in this room in case of fire or storms. Will heat with portable electric heat if need be. This house is 5 yrs old and basement has never shown water leakage. This room only has 1 wall that is above ground. We did use treated wood on the top and bottom of the framed walls. Do you think that will be ok?

I did read the article on insulating basement walls and did not use trex or simular material under treated wood. Jeremy � I guess my concern would be the same one that I have for all basements.

Todd I appriciate your help on this. So if I had it sprayed behind and in between studs on the walls and ceiling it would be fine instead of taking down the walls? Do you know about what would it would cost to have square foot sprayed? Jeremy � Yes spraying it in place will work. Todd just had a contractor stop by and give me a quote on the closed cell spray insulation. What do you think? The price was about Also I have one wall in that room that is concrete but on the other side of that wall is my basement.

Jeremy � No worries�. I just hope you come back often! At least poor from my point of view. Not sure I understand your other question. Do you have a concrete wall that has rooms on both sides? I decided to make a storage room out of it instead of backfilling.

Should I still fill cavity in between studs with R fiberglass insulation? House is in New England. Scott � The answer depends on your local energy code and what R value you need.

Here in NH we have a pretty strict Energy Code that requires the entire building to be analyzed which determines the level of insulation. This is a northern cabin. Todd, What do you think about the do it yourself handi foam closed cell kit? Is it as good or the same stuff contractors use. I also hear they are getting harder and harder to acquire do to VOC laws. Todd, I am remodeling an old farmhouse in Pa. The exterior walls are currently double plank with 1 inch E. Do you have any suggestions or comments?

My question: What is the minimum blue board thickness I can use for the vapor barrier? I have a similar situation as Karen. Todd, I live in Southern California where it ususally is warm, but my exterior walls do not have insullation in them. They are cold or hot to the touch depending on the outside weather. Then painting to match the room. Are you suggesting to just paint the foam board and leave it that way?

Great site. We have a basement in Baltimore that is damp in the summer. If we go with the first option, will the gap between the foam and drywall separated by the furring strip be a problem for moist air? The air space is actually a good thing.

Thanks Todd. Seems like the same type of product. Todd � I live in Colorado with a home. I am looking to add insulation to the above grade bedrooms on the North side of the home. There is some old siding board behind the XPS. The bedrooms are plenty big enough to build out an interior wall.

I know there may be alternatives, but this seems fairly straight forward way of adding R with minimal effort. Ed � Your Mini Plywood Boat Plans 8th method is certainly one approach. However, there are probably some easier methods and possibly some cheaper ones that will yield the same result. Here are a couple thoughts.

Have the wall spray foamed after you remove the drywall. This is probably the best approach and it will surely seal things up, stop vapor and air infiltration and likely be the quickest. Install a layer of foam directly over the old wall, pad out windows and doors with extension jambs, drywall over the foam.

This would at least eliminate the need to frame a new wall. Hi Todd. Thanks for the great blog. It is exposed on 3 sides s,w,n and currently only has r The room will have a lot of glass great views even here in Kansas. We would end up with somewhere near r19, without having the added expense of him furring out the studs, etc.

When I suggested this to him his eyebrows raised about all sort of problems the drywaller might have with his screws popping through the paper on the drywall, or the drywall sheet not lying flush because the screws compress it into the foam.

Have you heard of this happening when drywalling over foam board? It has many problems including acting like a sponge if you ever get water in there. Having said that there are quite a few options you can look at.

Closed cell spray foam � works wonderfully, definitely most expensive option. You could do the R11 fiberglass followed by an inch of XPS foam. In my opinion there would be no issues with the screws. I say that because XPS foam has a very high compressive strength when compressed uniformly. Not sure this option will be much cheaper as XPS foam is pretty pricey and there will be more labor. You see Google has recently changed the science on how they rank sites when you do a search.

Advice about installation appreciated. Details: Zone 6 climate. Triple brick construction with concrete inner walls plaster has been removed. I think you can successfully install foam board between the studs and seal the panels all around with spray foam like Great Stuff. In that area you want to be sure you install a thickness that provides the minimum R value required by code.

Todd, in need of your help. Just want to say after reading all the posts on this excellent page I have a good idea of what the problem may be. I live in a 2nd floor north west coast condo and one external wall in the condo is poured concrete i believe and is insulated with well taped pink fiberglass and then covered with vapor barrier and then drywall.

The wall has metal studs looks like 4 inch. Below my condo is a parking garage � the tiled areas of floor are generally cold. Outside winter temps norm range from 1 to 8 degrees Celsius, summer 15 to The outside concrete wall is painted on the outside only.

I have been assured by engineers that there is no water coming in any external direct source such as rain and since the problem alleviates when I am away for extended periods I assume it is a condensation problem.

From reading other posts I think I should use 2 inch XPS foam sheets or closed cell spray foam directly against the concrete and then drywall with nothing else. What about using Plywood Fishing Boat Plans 8th Open Cell foam to allow the concrete to breathe more or is this nonsense?

Also, I turn the heat off in the condo when I leave for work and back on in the evening. It also has less inventory slots and weight limit. The Epheria Galleass has the following stats:. To upgrade the Epheria Frigate into an Epheria Galleass, you will need to first check the Epheria Frigate into a wharf at the wharf manager. It has a total of 18 cannons 9 per side.

There are also 4 different variations of the ship you can choose from, below are their stats:. Moon Vein Flax Fabric x Tear of the Ocean x42 or x Moon Vein Flax Fabric x or x The Galley is a guild ship which can be used by officers or the guild master.

Galleys have 4 cannons on each side and can only be built at certain guild housing or by completing the quest [Guild] I have a Dream. Unlike the other ships, the galley is repairable and you can also use workers on the ship for additional stats. To begin, you will need the following guild skills total of 17 skill points :. These are currently the only Guild houses that allow you to craft a galley. For more information on guild housing, click here to view our guide.

The total guild funds required to buy all the materials is ,, silver. Therefore, I would recommend gathering as many materials as you can before bidding on a guild house. Once you have everything listed above, place the materials into the guild bank and go to the guild house crafting window by clicking on the guild house from you map. You can send a maximum of workers to work on the ship at once.

Only one ship can be crafted per day, with a total of three ships available per guild. Using this will recover 5, HP and it does not have a cooldown, but takes 30 seconds to apply the heal. This is instant but has a cooldown of 60 minutes. You can also craft a more powerful version of this item called the [Guild] Origin of Wind. List of equipment you must craft using a guild house � requires the guild skill Building Boat Lv.

Blue gear for the Epheria Caravel and Epheria Galleass can be crafted at the ship part workshop in Port Epheria , 2F and have the following base stats:. Enhancing the new ship gear requires new items that come with the Great Ocean expansion update. All of these enhancing items can be bought with the new ocean currency or using the new barter system.

Once you have the materials, summon your black spirit and go to the enhance tab. Unlike the current ship gear, the new ship equipment does not drop down when you fail the enhancement.

You will need a certain level of sailing skill to use special skills. Skills also use up your ships power stat. Currently the fastest way to level your sailing lifeskill is by completing the daily quest from Sihuram at Port Ratt. You must deliver a quest item to either Velia, Epheria, Ancado or Altinova depending on which of the daily quest you decide to do. You can only do one of them and I would advise on taking the Ancado quest because it gives the most EXP due to the distance you are travelling.

I would advise on sailing to Epheria then getting on your horse to travel the rest of the way. The daily quest does not require you to use or have one of the Margoria ships and you can take the ferry instead. Crew members are used on T2 and T3 ships to perform certain actions such as pillaging for resources on an island or using the new bartering system.

Each crew member has their own level and stats and can be leveled up by killing sea monsters to increase their stats. Crew members can go up to a maximum of level 10 and can gain exp by killing sea monsters. The questline will give you a free crew member and will also give you increase the amount your sailor slots. You can have a maximum of 20 sailor slots. You can now attempt to hire a sailor, if you fail to hire them, the contract is consumed and the sailor will walk away from you.

You cannot attempt to hire the same sailor for a certain period of time 1 day or more. If you are successful, the sailor will now join your crew and can be assigned to a ship at the wharf manager.

Some crew members will demand more cabins and this may limit the amount of crew members you can have on your ship. If you run out of Rations on your ship, your crew members will start to lose condition. If a crew member runs out of Condition, they will no longer do any actions on your ship and their stats will no longer apply.

They must be fed a new food item called Chowder to recover. Sailors also drop to 0 Condition if you Remote Collect your ship, or if your ship is destroyed. Sailors can also become sick. When you hire a sailor you can see the type of sailor on the name tag above their head.

Below is a table showing the base stats each type of sailor can have. As the sailor levels up it will gain better stats. The best sailors you can get for Bartering is the Innocent Sailors. Credit goes to the Sailing Discord for the image below click to enlarge :.

The components of the boat upgrades can be upgraded with Blackstones, they also have a seperate lifetime to the boat so you can take them off and on whenever you want. Do the components of boats e. Fishing Boat Prow that can be upgraded with Black Stones have a lifespan like boats?

If not, do they have durability and how are they repaired? Off-topic: Also components for wagons, like wheels� do they have the same behaviour or no? Thank you to everyone who has supported us. We would also like to give a huge thank you to Ashelin for previously hosting the site, our guide contributors, and Luis for everything he has done. Aug 11 Tansie. Share this. List of Ships. Ship UI 3.

Currents and Wind. Ship Rations and Emergancy Rations. Gear and Inventory Management. Epheria Sailboat. Epheria Caravel. Epheria Frigate. Epheria Galleass. Ship Gear 9. Ship Gear Stats. Enhancing Ship Gear. Ship Skills. Sailors and Crew Management Introduction to Crew Members. Hiring Crew Members. Managing your Crew. Sailor Stats and Types of Sailors. Leave a comment. Click here to cancel reply.

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