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Model Boat Hull Design - Construction Methods and Hull Types The Best Vise You Can Own for Ship ModelingFrom hull construction to final rigging, our Ship Modeler's Vise adjusts your model to the right angle for easy access to all components. Will hold both plank-on-frame and solid hull models by the keel. Will also hold plank-on-frame models by the bulkheads for 'upside-down' planking. Cast aluminum base with ball swivel lets you tilt and turn your Brand: Amati Spa. Model Boat Tools: Building Cradles & Keel Clamps. Amati Keel Clamp. Price: ? (Including VAT) Part No: A Quantity: Artesania Latina Modeling Workstation. Price: ? (Including VAT) Part No: AL Quantity: Billing Boats Building Slip B Amati Keel Clamp. Amati Keel Clamp. View more products from Amati. such as guidance with the building process of a model kit. Our customer support and service is comprehensive, and we won�t disappear after you have made a purchase. from Revell kits to dolls houses, model boat kits to balsa aircraft. Whatever your age or experience.
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Occre Portable Work Bench. Occre Drawers Module for Workshop Cabinet. Occre Foam Base for Work Bench. In particular, it must be emphasised that any measurements or part or part numbers used are purely for the purpose of illustrative example and must not be confused with part numbers or measurements for a particular kit. In most kits, the placement of the first plank can be quite critical to the final outcome.

This is especially so when the first plank delineates the positions of the below deck gunports. Hull planking technique 1 is for Bluff Bowed vessels and Hull planking technique 2 is for Sharp Bowed vessels. For further details call our office or visit our website. Please remember the planks are always fitted in pairs, one each side � fix and forget for 24 hours.

There are four basic steps to a successful planking job We will deal with these in order then finish with a few suggestions on deck planking. Using a file, fine rasp or coarse sandpaper on a wooden block, or a combination of all of these, bevel the edges of the frames so that the planks will come in contact with a full thickness of each frame � not just a sharp leading or trailing edge.

A piece of broomstick with sandpaper glued to it will make it easier to shape those frames with a hollow curve. Use a plank and lay it over the frames in various positions to check the bevel i. If you do have a hollow spot on one or more frame s it can be built up using slivers of timber. Check again.

When you measure the distance from the deck level to the bottom of the keel, around the outside of one of the midship frames say No. By doing this all planks will arrive at the Keel together.

In some cases, it will have its top edge up to 5mm to 10mm below the deck level. Where this is done it is to facilitate the construction of Bulwarks at a later stage but in any case, it will be parallel to the line of the deck. Quite a few of the models shown in our catalogue fall into this category.

Many of the models which feature below deck open gunports require that the first plank follows the line of the gunports and it will run immediately above or below a row of gunports. When you have identified the position of the first plank, glue it into position using a PVA glue and without any tapering. Next, on the three midship frames, mark a position approximately halfway to the keel- the same distance down on each frame and a distance which is a multiple of a plank width.

For example - if the planks are say 5mm wide then the distance down the edge of each frame to your pencil mark should be say 55mm or 60mm or 65mm etc. The second pair of planks should now be temporarily attached, using planking screws, at the positions you have marked on the midship frames - but without glue. Both ends of each plank should now be bent, allowing them to follow their natural course along the frames.

Again using planking screws, temporarily attach them to the rest of the frames making fine adjustments if necessary to ensure that each is a mirror image of the other.

Checking the corresponding measurements port and starboard on the first and last frames should show up any errors.

There are now four planks in place, two on each side, and these will probably be the only ones which do not require any tapering or shaping. Dealing with the top half first, it will be fairly obvious where tapering will be required.

Count the number of planks needed to fill the gap to fill in the gap between first and second planks at midships then measure the distance at each of the other frames. These distances divided by the number of planks gives you the width of each plank at each frame. Once these widths are pencilled onto the plank the cutting of the taper can be carried out. Make several light strokes to set the course followed by a heavier one to make the cut. Alternatively, use a Mini Plane to plane the plank to the marked line.

Use a Cutting Mat or plywood board to protect the surface you are using to cut the planks. It is usual to carry out tapering on the lower edge of each plank and it may sometimes, although not usually , be necessary to carry out some bevelling on the upper edge of some planks.

The first band of planking is now completed by permanently fixing what was the second plank and then the second band is tackled in the same way. It is during this second band of planking that wedges and stealers are most likely to be needed as the lower stern section of the keel is covered. Planks should be allowed to largely follow their natural coarse with the gaps being filled in later but bearing in mind that the aim is for the final couple of planks to run nicely parallel to the bottom of the keel.

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