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Build a Plank on Frame Model Ship : 19 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables
Model Boat Hull Design Notes - Hull design and construction is my favorite aspect of building model boats. Here are some tips for hard chine and round bilged hulls using planking or carving methods.� Plank-on-frame mimics the way a full-size ship was built, from the way the frames are constructed, to the width and joints of each strip as it is planked. In the end, some hull planking is often left off to show the arrangement and construction of the frames. This is hard to do. Plank-on-bulkhead is much easier and is how most kits are constructed. This is a exciting new build starting on my channel, the battleship Yamato, the pride of the Japanese navy. and the largest battleship in the world at the. Stability of ship models hull is the most important criterion of quality. Often modeler sees in winter the hull which was planking in summer appear sufficiently large slit between the planks. Gap may disappear next summer or may be even greater. Because of this modeller has to go to extreme measures - to remove the trim, strengthen body and sheathe again. To prevent such a phenomenon should modeller at the design stage hull design to provide long-term stability. 2 Analysis of today's most popular methods of buildings shipmodel's hulls. 1. Wood monolith (of a single piece of wood).

The hull is the single largest part of a model ship. Building the hull correctly will determine the final shape and appearance of the model. In your kit you will find a number of plywood sheets with the laser cut parts. Do this before removing any parts from the plywood sheet. To construct the hull follow these steps. Step 1 - In the kit there will be a 4mm thick plywood sheet as shown Photo 1 below.

On this sheet there will be a number of parts for the model. The keel, bulkheads and transom are the parts needed to construct the hull. When fitted and glued together these parts form the skeleton of the hull. The keel, bulkheads BH and transom are identified in Photo 1. It runs longitudinally down the centre of the model from the stem or bow - front�to the stern�the rear�of the model. The keel is the centre piece of the model and everything is built from it. The bulkheads are fixed at right angles to the keel and provide strength to the hull.

Throughout this course we will refer to the bulkheads as bulkhead frames. The transom is fixed at right angles to the keel and sits at the stern. The transom is not a bulkhead but does form part of the hull construction. Step 2 - Remove the keel, bulkhead frames and transom from the 4mm plywood sheet. Use a snap blade knife to carefully cut through the tabs holding the parts to the main sheet. Step 3 - Dry fit the bulkhead frames into the keel slots.

Do not glue anything at this stage. Do not force the bulkhead frame into the keel slot. You may need to use a flat needle file to fractionally open the slot in both the keel and bulkhead frame. The fit should be firm but no loose. Step 4 - For larger models it is wise to make a working base as shown Figure 1. This will help to ensure the keel does not become distorted. Cut the slots in the keel supports to correspond with the bulkhead frames. Step 5 - It is very important to ensure the bulkhead frames are fitted and fixed square to keel.

Step 6 - The next step is to fit any bow blocks and stern blocks if the model has them. The stern blocks are fitted and glued in place either side of the keel at the stern between the last bulkhead frame and the transom.

These blocks are used to provide a larger surface area on which to fix the planks at the stern and give added strength to the stern area. Fit them at this point if your model has stern blocks. The bow blocks are fitted and glued in place either side of the keel at the bow and in front of the first bulkhead frame.

These blocks will provide a larger surface area on which to fix the planks at the bow. For a bluff bowed hull the planks will have to be shaped and bent in some cases at right angles. The large bow blocks are particularly important as they provide a greater surface area on which you can glue the planks thus allowing for greater strength.

In a kit that has a bluff bow the manufacturer will provide blocks of wood that will need to be shaped to fit between the first bulkhead frame on both side of the keel at the bow�Photo 5. Sometimes a series of 4mm plywood pieces are provided that will used to build-up the equivalent of a bow block once glued in place together.

Irrespective of which method is used to create the bow blocks you will need to shape the blocks. Follow the next steps to achieve the correct shape of the bow blocks. Step 7 - To shape the bow blocks first trace the outline of the first bulkhead frame on to one bow block. Next place the false deck on the top of the bulkhead frames and align it with the front of the keel.

Place the bow block in place and trace on to the block the curvature of the false deck at the bow�. You will now have two curves on the bow block. You will need to shape the block to these two lines. Step 8 - To shape the bow blocks you can use a range of hand or power tools. A band saw can be used to remove most of the unwanted timber.

A rasp can also be used for this purpose. Once most of the unwanted timber has been removed use files and sandpaper to achieve the final finish. As you progress continually check the shape of the block against the keel and first bulkhead frame for accuracy. Once you are satisfied with the shape achieved use a two part epoxy glue to fix the bow blocks in place�Photo 9. Step 9 - The next step is to fit and fix the false deck to the hull skeleton. The false deck is part of the 2mm plywood sheet.

Fitting the false deck at this stage will provide added strength to the whole hull structure. Step 10 - After the bulkhead frames have all been squared to the keel and glued in place and the glue has set it is now time to prepare the bulkhead frames for planking. Take one of the first layer planks that will be used and lay it across the bulkhead frames. You will see that at the bow the plank does not touch the full face of the bulkhead frame�see Photo The same is the case at the stern�see Photo Across the mid-ship bulkhead frames the plank will lay flat on the bulkhead frames.

It is most important that the planks lay flat on the full face of each bulkhead frame to firstly, allow a strong bond between planks and bulkhead frames to be made and secondly, to ensure there are no bumps or hollows in the hull surface when planked.

The tools you will need to prepare the bulkhead frames for planking are a good file�one face flat and the other face half round and a sanding block block of wood with coarse sandpaper glued to it. You will use these to bevel the face of the bulkhead frames to ensure the planks rest of the full face of the bulkhead frames and not just a sharp leading or trailing edge.

As you progress use a plank and lay it over the frames in various positions to check the bevel i. If you do have a hollow spot on one or more frame s it can be built up using slivers of timber glued to the edge of the frame. Part of the fairing process includes the Deadwood area of the keel. We will now consider the fairing of this area. Step 11 - The next step to consider is the keel at the stern. Pay particular attention to this area.

The total thickness of this area must be such that when planked with all layers of planking it is the same thickness at the stern post and rudder. Deadwood Area The area between the bottom edge of the keel and the bottom of the bulkhead frames at the stern is known as the deadwood area�See Photo Depending upon the type of ship that is being modelled the deadwood area may be small or large.

The deadwood area will be planked with two layers of planking consistent with the rest of the hull. The stern post and rudder however will only be planked with the second layer of planking.

So when the stern post and rudder are eventually fitted there is the need to ensure there is a consistent thickness between stern post, rudder and the stern area of the keel. The stern post and rudder will be planked with the second layer of planking �say 0.

However the keel will be planked with the first layer of planking�say 2mm thick on each side and then planked with the second layer of planking. Clearly when the stern post and rudder are fitted there will be a significant discrepancy between the thickness of the stern area of the keel and the stern post and rudder.

Step 1. Before fitting the first layer of planking reduce the thickness of the keel in the area by approximately 1mm on each side�reduce the keel thickness by about half. Step 2. Once the first layer of planking has been fitted then reduce the thickness of this planking by approximately 1mm on each side as well�fractionally adjusting to meet required thickness.

This will then reduce the total thickness of the keel and first layer of planking in the area to be 4mm thick and thus meeting the requirement for consistency of thickness so that when the second layer of planking is fitted there will be consistency of thickness between the keel and the stern post and rudder. We will now be completing the first layer of planking of a bluff bowed hull.

The approach will be applicable to all bluff bowed wooden model ships with a plank on bulkhead frame construction. There are many approaches to planking the hull of a wooden model ship. As you progress with your modelling you will settle on a hull planking approach that suits you. Planking the hull is not technically difficult but it does require some thought and study so that the principles are understood.

It also requires some patience. Once mastered the process is straight forward. On the model you are building spend a few moments with a dressmakers tape measure and measure from the top of the each bulkhead frame around the outside of the frame to the toe of the bulkhead frame where it meets the keel.

From your measurements it will be clear that if you are to fit one plank along the full length of the hull you will need to taper the planks that fit across the bulkhead frames at the bow of the model.

We will now consider this further with a few examples. It is assumed that the planks laid across the mid-ship bulkhead frames are at their maximum width. We need to determine how many planks will fit into the area between the top of these bulkhead frames and the keel. Question: If the width of the planks we are using is 5mm then how many planks will fit across the midship bulkhead frames to cover it completely?

These planks laid across the mid-ship frames will not be tapered or reduced in width across these bulkhead frames. As 24 planks will have to fit into this area then the plank width at bulkhead frame 2 will need to be reduced. The question is what will the width of each plank have to be to fit 24 planks into this area?

Question: What is the plank width needed at bulkhead frame 2 if 24 planks have to fit into the area? So the plank wide at bulkhead frame 2 needs to be 3.

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