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Glasspar - Classic Boat Library Jan 05, �� Boating Tips: Understanding Foam Cored Boat Construction. If you're looking at new boats, one of the things you'll have to consider is whether or not to buy a boat built with foam core construction. This is, of course, tough to do if you don't understand exa. A major difference is the lamination schedule. The fiberglass skins used in foam sandwich are much thicker than in plywood sandwich. Building a foam sandwich boat step by step: � build a jig � plank the jig with foam panels � fiberglass the outside � flip the hull � remove jig � fiberglass . Jan 14, �� In fact, cores in fiberglass boats have been around since very early on. He admits the mass production of boats started about 65 years ago. Most of those boats had wood cores for stiffening and reinforcement. However, he refers to coring as a recent experiment.
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The average entry level cruiser has a cored foredeck with virtually no frames. Jump on it and it's like a trampoline. No problem, except when you do jump on it, and that deck flexes, what is happening is that the core is separating from the outer laminates. A cored structure is designed not to bend, like a bridge. When you do bend it, bad things happen, like the bridge or deck starts to fall down. Much the same thing is going on with hull sides. Most small boats don't use foam cores, but products like CoreMat, a material that sort of looks like that absorbent material you find at the bottom of meat packaging.

It's a fibrous material with millions of little holes or perforations through it. It would be great stuff except for a couple of things. Hurricane damaged boats give us a great opportunity, not only to see how good layup workmanship is, but how well materials perform under destructive testing. This is a Grand Banks 46 for which more of the damage was caused by poor workmanship than anything else. The box at upper left shows where a material like coremat was used. I just grabbed onto the outer laminate and tore it right off with ease, in this and many other areas.

In the box at right is a roving laminate that was not bonded AT ALL It was a direct roving-to-roving laminate, which is an improper laminating method. You can tell this by the shiny surface. There were extensive areas like this throughout the hull.

This boat should not have had half the damage that it actually sustained. First, it absorbs water like a sponge. Small boats never had much of a blistering problem until products like this came along. Now they blister just like Taiwan boats that are loaded with chopped strand mat and blister like a banshee.

Secondly, very thin cores like these do not create a structural truss like a real core does. Cores increase strength by separating the distance of the load between the inner and outer skins. Think of the skins as beams, and the core as columns. The effect is exactly the same as a roof truss. But not when you use a thin sheet of this stuff. All it does is replace strong material with weaker material. Take a typical cruiser, use a core like this in the house sides and then paint it black.

Set it out in the Florida or Texas or Alabama sun for a few years and watch what happens. It buckles and cracks. Want to know why? Or do you want to know why the builder didn't know what was going to happen? Or did he care? Oh, no, he simply didn't know because he doesn't employ any composite engineers. The material salesmen designed the thing for him, so he's happy as a clam thinking he saved some money and can now tout "high tech.

Every place a laminate is held rigid, like around a window frame with screws through it, the material expands but is restrained by frame and fasteners. And so it does the only thing it can do, it buckles and cracks.

Here's another photo of our Grand Banks, model, considered by many to be the premier of its class. What you see here is an area on the hull side where I grabbed ahold of some cracked laminate and just yanked it right off.

Total area size is about 10" x 24". There was absolutely no bond here between these two layers of roving. At the very center of photo, you can see where a few fibers managed to stick. If they have this much trouble with major errors in solid laminate hulls, imagine what it's like with cored hulls. Foam might seem like a great replacement for balsa, since it doesn't rot. But that doesn't mean it won't deteriorate.

It can and it does. By a variety of means and methods. The problem I have with foam is this: Balsa is balsa, and it doesn't come in different formulations.

With balsa, you know exactly how it's going to behave under all conditions. Not with foam. Try looking at a piece of foam and determining what it is. No way. All you can do press your fingernail into it and determine its density and compression strength. Or bend and break it. You already know a lot about foams because you see lots of it used in packaging and insulation, so you know most of it is not very durable stuff. In fact, put it out in the sun for a couple of months and it will literally disappear.

It evaporates. Then pour some solvents on it. Go into your paint locker and you'll find at least one that will dissolve it. Put it on the ground and step on it. Crushes pretty easy, no? Work your fingernails into it.

Crumbles real nice, does it not? Now apply some heat to it. Doesn't have to be much, just bring a match near. Try to burn it with the match. Burns like crazy, right? Hot and fast. Now try the same things with a piece of balsa. In virtually every category, balsa out performs the foam.

And when it comes to biodegrading meaning rot , in many cases the balsa will still outperform the foam. Balsa, like teak, contains a toxin that fungi doesn't like.

It doesn't rot until that toxin leaches away. Another Problem: Most foams used in boat building have very low heat distortion values. That's about the temperature the white deck gets baking under the summer sun.

Add some color to the surface and temperatures will begin Foam Core Fiberglass Boat Building Failed to soar. I have measured black painted surfaces on boats as high as degrees. That's why you see foam cored boats with painted dark trim, or dark gelcoat colors, that look like a checkerboard.

Heat distortion is irreversible. These foams will also begin to stretch or creep when heated, resulting in the laminates loosing their design strength. Structures can actually change shape. The HDT of balsa is degrees. Balsa is psi.

Not much else to say about this. Why on earth would anyone want to use a material like this? But you know the answer already. Do you really want a boat made with this stuff? Or do you want a boat made with a material that at least you know how it performs?

The problem, you see, is that we do not know the properties of whatever foam is used in a boat. We may be able to determine that it is foam, but that's all.

Which of the endless varieties of it may be, we have no idea, and so nothing can be said for how it will perform. After all, performance is proved by application experience, but if we have dozens of varieties of the material, who can keep score? Surveying foam cored boats gives me the willies if only because I don't know what's in there. Foam Cored Hulls As I have shown, foam and balsa do not behave the same in their specific structural qualities.

Balsa has a lot of advantages that foam does not. For example, because of the exposed end grain, when you coat it with resin, the wood cells suck up that resin via the capillary effect and makes for an extraordinarily strong bond. It does not require any special adhesives as many, if not most, foams do. All the laminator does is press it right into a layer of wet resin, and if there's enough resin there, it isn't ever going to come unstuck.

We can't say that for foam because the texture of foam is very coarse, and it does not suck resin up into the cells because foam cells are round, not tubular like balsa. The bond it makes to resin is so weak as to be unacceptable. Therefore they have to use a thick paste-like adhesive shown in the top photo that will press into the round cells a little better.

It's hard to see how the builder gets any benefit from this because his labor cost has just gone up because the laminators now have to fool around with this gunk, which also costs more money. All this just to get the darn stuff to stick, which they have a hard time doing.

As you can see from the nearby photo, it doesn't always work out as planned. Wouldn't it have been easier and cheaper just to lay in a few more layers of fiberglass?

I think so. Sloppy work is much to blame here, but so is the complexity of the material. Would this have happened with balsa? The answer is much less likely because they don't have to deal with the extra material, the putty.

The complexity of the process thus becomes a major factor when you are dealing with low skill, low wage workers. All this does is to serve to increase the potential for error, something that the builder ought to be avoiding at all costs.

The cost of one faulty product can wipe out the savings from any particular process across the board, rendering all benefits null and void. Lay up errors are hard to capture with photography, but here is prime example of what one looks like that is easy to discern. The checkered pattern here is incomplete bonding of woven fiberglass fabric on a large sport fisherman.

This condition Foam Core Fiberglass Boat Building Journal involves the entire hull. The hull of this boat is irreparable and ultimately failed. The cause of this is a result of a lack of supervision of the lay up crew that did not follow proper procedures. There is that thing call the law of diminishing returns. What it Means for the Consumer. The boat building industry has entered an unprecedented period of experimentation of new materials for use in the fabrication of what were once called fiberglass hulls.

Those of us who have been around the boat building scene for a while have seen a lot of new ideas and materials come and go over the years. Some have met with success, but many have met with failure, or one way or another have proved unsuitable for building production-line boats.

New Materials Again. It seems the gentleman owns a foam cored boat himself without nary a problem. As a skeptic of foam cores, it's been lonely out here over the years in face of so much promotion and fanfare for the material. However, he overlooked the point that I never said that foam couldn't be used successfully; it can and it is.

David Pascoe is a second generation marine surveyor in his family who began his surveying career at age 16 as an apprentice in as the era of wooden boats was drawing to a close.

Certified by the National Association of Marine Surveyors in , he has conducted over 5, pre purchase surveys in addition to having conducted hundreds of boating accident investigations, including fires, sinkings, hull failures and machinery failure analysis. Over forty years of knowledge and experience are brought to bear in following books. David Pascoe is the author of:. In addition to readers in the United States, boaters and boat industry professionals worldwide from nearly 80 countries have purchased David Pascoe's books, since introduction of his first book in Published by: D.

Pascoe All rights reserved. Web site: Maintained by Junko A. Home Bio Books. In , David Pascoe has retired from marine surveying business at age On November 23rd, , David Pascoe has passed away at age Biography - Long version. You can see the core with checkered appearance in this part, about to be vacuum-bagged at Sabre Yachts.

Photo Credit: Sabre Yachts. Although many modern boatbuilders eschew the use of wood, on high-end custom yachts like this Jarrett Bay, methods like cold molding are often considered superior to more modern techniques. Back Explore View All. Back Types View All. Unpowered Boats Kayaks Dinghies. Personal Watercraft Personal Watercraft.

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