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How to Make a Paddle Boat | DIY Projects Paddleboat Using Recycled Materials: A friend who runs a maker summer camp contacted me a few weeks ago to see if I would be up for doing some welding at her camp. When I found out the details, I was definitely up for it: help some kids build a human-powered paddle boat out of recycled. Make Your Own Canoe Paddle: I have recently finished building a cedar strip canoe, and had barrels full of thin, small pieces of cedar and ash left over. The pieces of wood were so small and thin I had been burning them in our patio fire pit just to keep them from taking up sp.
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My paddle was covered with epoxy, so I used regular wood glue. If your paddle is only getting coated with varnish, then a waterproof wood glue would be needed. Even with the fiberglassed blades, the shaft of the paddle that runs from the blades all the way through to the handle will need to be a hard wood for strength.

After the glue for the blades dried, I glued those to the sides of the shaft. For the handle I used the same technic. I just glued a small piece of ash to each side to make it wider. When you get to the finished pic of the handle, you can see the wood grain difference where I glued them on.

Now that the blank is glued up and dried, I cut out my card board template I traced from my neighbor's paddle, laid it over my wooden blades and traced the shape to the wood. I used a sabre saw to cut out the outline, and roughed out the shape of the handle.

Most of the sanding I did with a hand held belt sander with 80 git to start. If you are not going to fiberglass, the thickness of the blade will depend on how stiff the wood is chossen for the blades. I used a hand held router with a round over bit to knock off the edges of the shaft, but had to fine tune the shape with belt sander. The handle was also shaped with the same sander, with some work done with a wood file.

Like I said I opted to finish mine with fiberglass and epoxy, but that's another process left to another Instructable. Varnishing the paddle is the easiest part of the project.

I would recommend at least 3 coats of a exterior gloss varnish. If you don't do alot of varinish work, a quart is pretty cheap, and buy 3 or 4 disposable brushes and throw them away after each coat of varnish. The first coat will soak into the wood and be pretty rough. After it's dry to the touch, sand it down with and apply the next coat. When that is dry, sand it again and reapply. No need to over sand, a quick scuff to make it smooth is all.

Keep reappling untill you get the build up want. The first paddle in these pictures is the one you watched me make. The feather paddle is my second. After using the first paddle a few times, I decided I wanted the shaft about 2" shorter and blade shorter and wider. I used the same technics gluing up the blade for the feather, but had a lot more, smaller pieces to glue up.

The next one, with the wood burning on it, is made similarly, its a double bladed kayak paddle. The shaft is a old stairway hand rail, and blades are a kitchen drawer I disassembled, 9 ply maple plywood, very dense and hard.

I did not use fiberglass on the kayak paddle, its used and abused the most of my 3 paddles and is holding up great Let your imagination run wild making your paddle and have fun with it. A link for that build is here.. The 8 blades of each wheel, 16 in all, are 17 in. One end of each blade is nailed to one side of the hub, then it is braced as shown to strengthen the wheel.

I had a blacksmith shape the cranks for me, but if one has a forge, the work can be done at home without that expense. The bearings for the crankshafts consist of wood, although it is preferable to use for this purpose two large iron washers, having a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft, and drill holes in their rims so that they can be screwed to the wheel-box upright as shown.

The paddle-wheel boxes are built over the wheels with the dimensions given in the drawing, to prevent the splashing of water on the occupants of the boat. The drawings show the location of the seats. The action of the boards is the same as of a spring on a vehicle. It is necessary to have a good brace across the boat for the back end of the springboard to catch on�a 2 by 4-in.

At the point where the springboard rests on the front seat there should be another good-sized crosspiece. The board can be held in place by a cleat and a few short pieces of rope, the cleat being placed across the board back of the brace.

A little diving platform is attached on the outer end of the springboard and a strip of old carpet or gunny sack placed on it to prevent slivers from running into the flesh. In making the spring and running board, it is advisable to make them removable so that the boat can be used for other purposes. The boat is steered with a foot-operated lever, the construction of which is clearly shown. For the tiller-rope guides, large screweyes are used and also for the rudder hinges, the pin of the hinge being a large nail.

The hull can be further strengthened by putting a few angle-iron braces either on the in or outside. To make the boat water-tight will require calking by filling the cracks with twine and white lead or thick paint.

The necessary tools are a broad, dull chisel and a mallet. A couple of coats of good paint, well brushed into the cracks, will help to make it watertight as well as shipshape. The boat may leak a little when it is first put into the water, but after a few hours of soaking, the boards will swell and close the openings. This boat was used for carrying trunks, firewood, rocks, sand, and for fishing, and last, but not least, for swimming.

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