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80 Free boat plans ideas | boat plans, free boat plans, boat Aug 28, �� Build this small boat trailer for summer. TO BUILD A SIMPLE trailer for a small light, runabout of 10ft to 13 ft long by about 5ft wide ( metres long by up to metres wide) this design is ideal. It is suitable for a dinghy, tinny, Parkercraft or even your children�s yacht. Dec 21, �� I have to be honest here and I think a lot of people might agree but unless you have a trailer to use as a donor (think boat trailer) and a cheap source for steel (I have a scrap yard in the same complex my shop is in I get stuff from at times at about 1/2 the cost of new) you will probably spend more to build it then buy one.
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I've built a couple of trailers and I agree with the others, it's cheaper to buy than to build. Some steel yards where I live in Phoenix have scrap steel as well as new. Sometimes you can get a good deal on scrap, but they don't always have what you're looking for.

I'm planning on building a trailer for my Bobcat skid steer, but I already have all the running gear from another trailer. Otherwise, I'd probably buy, then modify. I just last month built a 6. I used an old pop-up as the base. Used scrap where I could and used deck boards from my inlaws when they replaced the deck. Just my 2 cents I agree it's cheaper to buy used and modify than build from scratch. Just the hubs and wheels will cost more than a whole trailer. Alright thanks y'all!

I think I'll try to find a cheap trailer on craigslist, offerup, or something like that and I'll modify it. This helped a lot! Would need some minor repair and tires most likely. As the other said, you will have that just in an axles. I agree on finding one used. Check craigslist too.

Sometimes you can find a double axle boat trailer for less money than what you pay for the axles. The axle and wheels would have cost more.

Originally posted by BD1 View Post. I agree with the others find a good used one and modify it to do what you need. With the boat on the trailer the rust didn't look bad, and I had planned this winter to put a fresh coat of paint on it. After I pulled the boat off to take a closer look, I quickly found that the trailer had a considerable amount of rust and frankly was not safe traveling down the road.

When the boat was removed, I was able to see many spots where the trailer had rusted clear through many of the main structural components. At this point I knew a coat of paint was not going to fix this trailer, and it was time for new one.

Through my inspection, I did notice that the axle, leaf springs, wheels, etc. Other than the axle assembly, the trailer was scrap. Since I had an existing trailer, I didn't have to build a trailer off from the boat dimensions. I was able to take measurements off the existing trailer and use it as a pattern for my new design. This obviously simplifies the design and overall task. There are a few key measurements I wanted to ensure I had captured correctly. The axle and bow rest placement relative to the two main boat supports are critical for proper balance of the boat and trailer.

Other than these few critical dimensions, the rest of the trailer I just taped out and captured in some basic sketches. For the overall layout and detailed design of the new trailer I used Autodesk's Fusion product. With Fusion, I was able to easily layout the entire trailer virtually before I ordered or cut any material. Fusion also provides simulation software that allowed me to constrain and load my virtual trailer design to validate that it could easily hold up to 1, lbs load.

The image attached shows overall deflection at the lb loaded condition. In the new trailer, I did want to incorporate two design changes from the original. The first was a segmented rear roller system. The original trailer had a single long roller that didn't allow the boat to easily pivot during loading. In the new design I incorporated a series of 5 rollers that would rotate independently allowing the boat to more easily pivot while aligning the boat during loading.

The second change added diamond plate landings that would allow you to easily get in and out of the boat while it was loaded on the trailer. Other than these two advancements the new design was a very close replica of the original design. For the first fabrication step I started by cutting the main frame components from steel tubing 2in x 3in 0. After cutting out the frame components, I laid them out to ensure a good fit. The initial step in welding together the frame is to weld the tongue to the first cross member.

To do so, square the two components together the tongue is perpendicular to the first cross member , tack weld the components, recheck squareness, and then complete by welding around the mating surfaces of the two components.

Once complete, add the two cross angle support stiffeners. With the tongue welded together, it will be the basis of the rest of the trailer. Take time to ensure squareness and fit of these components, as the rest of the trailer will be based off of this initial assembly. Now that we have the trailer tongue assembled and welded together, we can layout the rest of the frame sections. You'll want to shim the entire frame up off the ground so that you'll be able to both clamp and level the full frame.

To shim the frame I used lumber to first get the structure off the ground, and then used small pieces of sheet steel ranging in thickness to shim up and down each corner of the frame. Using a level, a square, and clamps, work your way throughout the frame shimming and positioning as needed to assemble and fixture the whole frame. Once you have the entire frame in position, cross tape both far corners from the tongue to ensure that the entire frame is square.

With the whole frame tightly clamped together, you can use a large hammer to adjust the frame such that you get the same measurement when cross taping between the tongue and far corners. Check your joints and recheck that the frame components are still in level.

Then, work your way around the frame and tack weld the entire structure together. These tack welds should be large enough to hold the frame together, but not so heavy that you introduce a lot of heat in any single area.

Now that the frame is all tacked together, I would again check both level and squareness before fully welding it all together. If you are satisfied with the setup, now you can begin welding up the entire frame. To do so, you'll want to balance the heat across as much of the frame as possible to help prevent warping. If you simply start welding in a single location and then work your way around the frame, you'll likely find that the frame has warped from heat.

By welding a single seam and then moving to another location on the frame to start another weld, you will have distributed heat more evenly throughout the frame reducing overall warping. You will want to continue this process around the whole frame until complete. At this point the main frame weldment is complete! Notice in the images above that I also added wire guides and ran lightweight cable through the assembly before welding it together. These guides and cable will allow me to easily pull the wiring harness through the frame in my final assembly.

Had I pulled the wiring harness through the frame tubes prior to welding, I could have melted or damaged them during the welding process. It's much easier in my opinion to run a cable and pull the wires through in the final assembly. Now that the frame assembly is complete, we can locate and weld on the leaf spring front and rear hangers. The placement of these hangers is important, so you'll want to take extra care to ensure their location is correct before welding them to the frame.

If you remember we took extra care in measuring the exact placement of these hangers from the original trailer. Once we have them located, clamped, and welded in place we can flip the frame over and attach the axle. Having a boat is fun, but you need something to haul it to the water. For that, a durable boat trailer is your best bet. However, many new boat owners have no clue about the cost of boat trailers.

We have researched this topic and show everything you need to know about the pricing of boat trailers and more. What is the average cost of new boat trailers? The price of a boat trailer depends on its gross weight carrying capacity, material, design, and size among others.

Now, there are different trailers for various hull designs and weight specifications. In most cases, people buy the trailer along with their boat. But over Cost Of Building A Boat Trailer Young time, you may want something more durable or buy a bigger boat and need another trailer for easy transportation of the boat. In that case, it helps to know the typical cost of a new boat trailer and the different types on the market. Factors such as weight capacity, size, accessories such as brakes, and material steel, aluminum, galvanized metal, painted and more influence the price.

Different manufacturers also offer single axle boat trailers at different prices. These are perfect for larger and heavier boats used by families and fishers. For heavy-duty boat transportation, tri-axle trailers are the best option. Most boat owners may not need this trailer as most people buy compact-sized watercraft they can tow with their private vehicles. A tri-axle requires the powerful torque of heavy-duty diesel engines to reach its destination. In fact, you can make your own PWC trailer with easy-to-get materials from your local hardware store.

The main distinction between the two regarding price is that roll-off trailers cost about 20 percent more than float-on trailers. However, the former is easier to maintain although they can be difficult to use for a new person.

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