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How to Build a Sailboat Rudder From Scratch : 10 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables Sep 21, �� Carbon rudders therefore are normally seen only on race boats and high-quality cruising boats. A carbon-fiber rudderstock. Another important thing to consider, of course, is the manner in which a rudder is attached to its hull. The more a rudder is supported by a . DIY Simple Kickup Rudder Article By Shorty. I needed to make a new rudder for this boat. There are many designs for rudders out there, I have tried many of them but keep coming back to this simple style kickup rudder. But for this one, I tried a few small modifications from what he normally prescribes. The first big difference in this rudder. Guitar and Trumpet on a Sailboat? but on Vancouver Island we instead get to change our sail plan every few minutes ?? I think it makes for skill building, but also makes you feel like you�re playing some kind of game with the wind. myboat049 boatplans 0 comments. share. save.
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Great reference thread! Thanks PAR. I really should have made this thread before I started the build. Do you think my rudder is strong enough realistically? The ply is about 27mm thick at the top where it joins the stock since some material had to be removed so it would fit in. The old rudder didn't snap from normal use. But I assume the extra length will only put more stress on it. I still don't understand how you use a router to accurately cut the foil shape?

The break in the picture looks just like what a break from a rolling shear failure looks like. You may have had some internal fiber failures, but the blade was still whole and the drive way was the straw that broke it's back.

In other words it broke at it's weakest point when it hit the driveway. Why did you add length to the blade? Thee are a few methods that I know of for using a router jig to cut foil sections.

Naturally each has good and bad points about them. The blade I show was for a light weight, 17' daysailor and finished about 1" thick. Because the blade changed shaped pretty dramatically along it's length I elected to make several templates and adjust the foil type along the length.

The top portion of the blade was a surface piercing shape, the middle portions transitioned from to and the end of the blade was a 63 series section. This caused me to have to cut in 6" sections at a time, but this isn't unusual.

The setup can be tedious for these router jigs, but you end up with precise sectional shapes and more importantly symmetrical foils. The bade is over 32mm thick in total for most of the span. Only the section that goes into the stock was shaved to 27mm so the glass could pack it out to 30mm so it would fit in.

The stock slot is 30mm. That just happens to be the most stressed part of the rudder too. This boat was used for racing and was apparently one of the fastest trailer boats in Moreton bay 40 years ago. It was owned by the Commodore of the Manly Yacht Club. Now its performance would be regarded as slow with all the cruising "improvements" my dad made to it.

Its much slower than my Binks I lengthened the rudder to the same length as my Binks 25 which is the same length but lighter. It now appears to the same size as most other boats of this length where before it was much smaller than the average. The rudder just seemed too small and always seemed to drive though the water at a overly large angle of attack. I hope it can now sail with the rudder in a more centered position to reduce drag broaching.

The way the rudder hit on the driveway would have snapped any rudder. Something had to break with it wedged into the ground and a car reversing up with force. The driveway is steep and the stern lifts high into the air is it comes up from the road. So the rudder would have almost dropped right down before the full weight of the boat would have pushed back down on it while going backwards. Thats not to say it wasn't damaged already though.

In fact this was the second rudder he snapped like this. I think a better method of holding it up is required or at least checking its up. If it snaps I now know how to make a stronger version with strip planking But I really don't want it snapping and causing a dangerous situation.

Sounds like you really tried to make your rudder as good as possible with all those foil changes. Did it work as you hoped? Was it for a new boat or an upgrade? This rudder blade shown above was for one of my designs. It was a new build, but the first to have a full foil shape allotment it's full length. Previous versions had flat sided foil sections which are easy to cut by the novice, but not quite as efficient as the "full up" version. Both the centerboard and rudder received this treatment and I had an opportunity to sail it against another of the same design, shortly after launching.

The foil section equipped boat, which was identical other wise, right down to the sails. I made both boats well made one, bare hulled the other and the sails came from the same supplier. The new foil equipped boat was able to point slightly higher, had less turbulence at the top of the rudder, handled beam sea conditions better, the rudder seemed to stay "in the groove" longer, etc. So, yes the improvements where worth the extra work. The slab sided centerboard would "hum" a touch when up on plane, but the fully shaped centerboard didn't.

If you where experiencing a lot of helm deflection with the short rudder, you may have other issues then rudder length. I would have had to access the boat a little before making this change, like what condition are the sails, which is a common cause of excessive helm deflection weather helm. How about the rig, what is the mast rake and do you know what it's supposed to be? Is the boat sitting on her lines or a little down at the stern? This is also a common problem, usually because the boat has become a storage box and gained a considerable amount of weight, not unusually under the cockpit out of sight and mind until it affects trim.

Thanks for the info on your boat design. It seems real foil shapes are well worth the effort. Do you have a pic of the boat? The 25 foot trailer sailer in question has been molested from its original specification. The swing keel was extended 30cm and with more weight. The keel is pretty much a hollow rectangular steel plate construction with lead filled in the bottom. Only the leading and trailing edges are sharpened so its has a very crude cross section.

However in this state it was successful in racing when it was made 40 years ago. From here the boat has had a few mods which detract from performance and aid cruising.

It now has a electric anchor winch and carries 50m or chain up high in the bow. It has a heavy copper 80L fuel tank in the stern. The mast snapped from a rigging failure and my dad decided to get a taller mast so that the mainsail and boom could be higher up to fit a canopy under. Despite the extra mast hight the new mainsail that had to be cut is still smaller in area than the original but with a higher center of effort.

The new mast was of a significantly heavier section so with the extra length and size it is probably twice the weight. It was much worse but we got it to almost vertical. The taller mast would have changed the angle of the forestay but the boat does have adjustable points for the jib sheeting. The hull shape has fairly straight runs aft, which make it good downwind in a strong breeze planes but the transom sits about mm under water which causes drag in most situations.

I'm sure there was a noticeable performance decrease with the new rig. But the boat always had weather helm and this only made it worse. DennisRB , Sep 29, This is her just coming together.

Not all the coming is in place, but most everything else is. The other picture is the only rudder shot and the blade isn't there, just the rudderhead. The blade was also painted, but the tiller was a lovely vertical lamination instead of the typical horizontal of mahogany and white fir. Instead of tapering the outside of tiller, I tapered the fir portions of the laminate which made it especially interesting to look at.

PAR , Sep 29, You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content. Similar Threads. Replies: 21 Views: 1, Replies: 4 Views: 3, Is there a definitive book on DIY cabin sole replacement? Replies: 0 Views: 1, Replies: 21 Views: 11, Replies: 30 Views: 7, The first big difference in this rudder, is that instead of using a plywood blade with a lead weight, I used an old Hobie 16 rudder blade.

I trimmed it a bit so it would pivot without hitting the other hardware. I know the drawing says 8", but the Building A Sailboat Rudder Wurst blade is about 9" wide on top Building A Sailboat Rudder 200 and tapers down a little narrower on the bottom.

The blade is 29" tall overall. The hold up line has a simple jam cleat mounted right on the stock, so when I want to hold the blade up, I can simply Building A Sailboat Tiller Essay hoist and cleat it. Also you can see the main sheet block mounted to the tiller. Normally people suggest putting the block somewhere else so it won't interfere with the steerage, but I have found that if you place it just in the right spot, it won't pull at the tiller very much, BUT, has a neat feature.

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