Fishing Boats For Sale Las Vegas Quart

World's largest sailing boat on the drawing board

A traditional-looking foot clinker dinghy for rowing, sailing and motoring that is stable, handsome and easy to build. A pretty, light, tough, roomy and easy to build 7 foot 9 inch pram dinghy that can be rowed or sailed. An easy to build rowing and sailing pram dinghy that splits into two nesting sections for compact storage.

A 15 foot clinker style double ended family boat that can be rowed, sailed or motored. A stable but fast double-ended rowing or sailing boat based on a traditional Sziling Peapod. A lightweight beach cruising and expedition boat for sailing, rowing and motoring, which can also be built as a motor launch without the sailing rig. The Duo is a simple-to-build rowing and sailing dinghy that can nest for easy storage. It makes a good tender as well boat sailing drawing 600 a fun sailing boat sailing drawing 600. A stable, flat-bottomed rowing and sailing boat that also handles well under motor, for family outings, fishing and day sailing.

An 11 foot 7 saoling clinker style pram dinghy that performs beautifully when rowed, sailed or motored. The Pixie is a fun car-toppable beach catamaran that sails well with one or two crew and is popular among people who are new to sailing catamarans but who are not that interested in racing.

A modern wooden canoe yawl for engineless coastal cruising by sail and oars, designed to be affordably built by an amateur. A very compact sailing beach cruiser that can be nested in three sections for storage in a corner of a garage.

A finely-proportioned and lively sailing canoe sialing a huge lateen sail for lots of speed. A high performance twin-trapeze racing catamaran that is lightweight and easy to build. The Strike 15 is a high-performance racing trimaran with folding outriggers designed to be easy to sail by older boat sailing drawing 600 less experienced sailors and easy to launch from the beach.

The Strike 16 is a dry, comfortable trimaran for four-person day-sailing or two-person weekending. The Strike 18 is a dry, comfortable trimaran for family day-sailing with an optional, removable, cabin top to convert it into a pocket cruiser.

A light and stable 10 ft trimaran that is very easy and fun to sail and can nest for compact storage. The Zest is a single-handed racing dinghy with a plywood hull and comfortable sitting-out wings. A lightweight plywood boat sailing drawing 600 canoe with the performance and stability of a good boat sailing drawing 600 dinghy. A low-cost sailing dinghy saiilng is easy to build and fun to sail for clubs, regattas and sailing lessons.

Light and easily removable outrigger floats that turn a canoe or kayak into a formidable sailing boat or boat sailing drawing 600 stable fishing platform.

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It was beguiling to set up I've the pleasing further boa boat sailing drawing 600 front room house. Small Vessel Designs ~ Skeleton As well as Customized Designs ~ Tad Roberts Measure a bottom of your jon vessel.

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I have no plans for a larger Sharpie now � to much other assignments taking all of my time. Besides, I am not quite sure that a sharpie is the way to go, when headroom is high on the wish-list. OK, I misunderstood.

I am thinking on purchase the sharpie full plans, i only wanted to know if you can send me the stuff to argentina, and also if one person can fit comfortably seated inside de cabin as if sitting in a chair. Not much, but reasonably good for a very small cruiser. Ibland har man tur! Jag har en fundering om centerbord och avdrift.

Platt botten och skarpa slag. I don't have the magazine easily available, but I think it was some handsome old-style gaff rigged racing dinghy A design that provided a cabin with overnight accommodation for two, a galley, space for a loo and a chart table? Cannot help thinking that if you'd shown the judges a Tardis they'd have said "Love the space but it looks like a police box! Yes, I was a bit surpriced as well.

I do not remember the competition criteria well enough to comment � but they must have offered some leeway So my question is: Is it possible and allowed by you to use the pictures on your website for the construction of a sailing model.

Scale would probably around , as I am a great fan of the so called Footy boats length one foot. Yes you are welcome to use whatever information you can find on my site, and if there are things you need explained in more detail, please mail me.

Hi, what a beautiful boat. I've been thinking hard on these line for a long time now, designing my own following principles set down by Micheal Storer and his Goat Island Skiff before it occured to me that I had designed a sharpie! All my design considerations are the same as you explain particularly regarding ease of handling both onshore and afloat but mine is much more dinghy like and of a lighter "butt joint" construction.

I am lucky to have a mooring in Falmouth and currently sail an old Damio But its only used 4 or 5 times a year and costs a fortune to store and maintain. You have now got me thinking that your boat will show all the Cornish Shrimpers a thing or two!

Any thoughts to a lug rig with a jib? I have desperately fallen in love with the French Luggers and their square meters of Canvass, there is something about the looks of them that seems perfect.. Art, the two-masted lug rig is an old favorite for small coastal craft; luggers, beach boats, drifters, fifies, jolly boats, whale boats etc. My first experience with these were the old Swedish naval whaleboats, which sported a rig not unlike my sharpie, but with lower and wider sails.

I was impressed with the simplicity of the standing lug: self-tacking and without booms over the cockpit. Les bisquines are very beautiful, but they are big heavy ships in need of that incredible amount of canvas, while the Sharpie is a light easily driven boat.

Some of the small luggers carried a jib on a long sprit. That could of course be added to my sharpie as well, but it would be quite unusable close-hauled, since you cannot get enough tension on the luff with unstayed masts, and running it would be shadowed by the mainsail. On a reach in light winds you may get advantages from a jib, but also making the boat a little more hard-mouthed.

I doubt it would be worth the trouble, from an efficiency point of view. Yes, it is an easily achieved adjustment. If you want to use the Sharpie merely as a daysailor, you can cut the cabin short, just as on the Florence Oakland, and extent the cockpit and cockpit benches all the way to the new aft bulkhead. Could you kindly provide the measurements in English, alongside your Metric ones for those of us too old to go back to school here in the States?

Thnaks for creating a beautiful design! Where did the plans go in the USA for the Sharpie ? I just got back from checking out a Norwalk Island 23 and think your boat is much closer to what I want to sail. Thanks Patrick, stave sizes and spar shapes are shown the usual way, along with a few short notes on how to use them. Here is a detail from the lug version. Place the order here on the site and pay online Paypal does the monetary exchange or with an attached invoice.

Don't forget to indicate which rig option you want use the comment box. The lenght cm. LWL is approx cm, but this can vary a little depending on the weight of the boat which in turn depends on chosen material, outfitting, building skills etc. Bjorn, have you considered a cat ketch rig with sprits? Mainsail might step slightly aft of the lug version but forward of hatch at station? Also do you have a way of locking down the centreboard?

Looking forward to some more sailing reports! I considered a lot of different rig alternatives when drawing the Sharpies. Both the lug and gaff were chosen for a number of reasons, of which my experience with gaffers and luggers were most important. But I also wanted a traditional appeal to match the little boat's lines. The chosen rigs are also efficient with a lot of sail area on relatively short masts, which suits a boat without a heavy keel.

A fully battened sail a modern take on the gaff achieves the same thing but needs a taller mast. With the masts unstayed and flexible, the disadvantage compared to my choices is hardly noticeable. I have no plans nor time to offer rig alternatives now, but it is a reasonably simple task for a determined builder to do it: just keep the sail area and it's lateral and vertical position approx the same. There is no way of locking the centerboard indicated on the drawings.

I have not seen this as a problem. Boats like this are simply not fast enough for the centerboard to lift. Of course, it might happen occasionally during short surfs off the wind, but why would anyone surf off the wind with the centerboard down? Since this is a cruiser that is supposed to spend most of the time in archipelagoes or close to the shore it is more important that the board can lift if you hit bottom or a rock.

Just by way of further explanation, I wondered if, in the unlikely event that one was caught out in a channel say, the Whitsunday Passage? Mostly of course one would leave it unlocked Hill Inlet?! Thanks Terry. I see the construction methods and details on my plans more as suggestions for those who do not have the experience to do it in their own way.

Have been looking at the for my first building project. Looking for a nice trailerable boat for the shallow waters of the James River in Virginia. I am a tall guy, 2m. How long is the v-berth? The berth is and will be if you put your head close to the hull and your feet close to the center of the V-berth ;-. Or you can move the forward bulkhead a couple of inches � of course, at the expense of some locker volume.

Theoretically, you could also move the aft bulkhead, but I don't think the galley area should be any smaller than on the plans. If a sleeping platform were added in the cockpit to cover the foot well would it be suitable for the kids to sleep in under a boom tent?

Even without a cover, you'll have two cots x50 cm. And if you leave the forward part of the footwell the grating over the drain well on the drawings open to not block the passage from the cabin, you have a sleeping area of xcm. Good to know, I will have to talk to my wife about what we want to do. You don't offer study plans correct?

Hey, I was looking for more construction pictures, and this link showed up Were I you I would request that they remove it. The gaff is peaked so high it is now pretty much a gunter rig.

Workboats used the lug - either fixed or dipping - because it was economical, the mast was short, as was the gaff and the CofE was low. I can see this rig catching every small breeze on a river it reminds me of the old Thames A-Raters and in sheltered waters but I would not venture further than that without at least two deep reefs in the main.

And flexing in gusts? Maybe the gaff would feather the top part of the sail but the mast bend? I hope not. It is not a Finn racing dinghy. Offset centreboard. What's the problem? It doesn't matter where the board is situated, as long as there is one - ask anyone who has sailed a Thames barge or Dutch botter.

I built a Phil Bolger 24ft schooner also a sharpie which had an offset daggerboard. Never noticed any difference on either tack. And your arrangement keeps the interior clear - very important in such a small boat. The major criticism. Plans, Table of Offsets? That is so last century. Why not cutting files, so every part in plywood can be accurately profiled? The builder then has assembly and epoxy filleting only to do. And the fits are better than any builder will manage with his jigsaw.

You Licence Fee would cover: the cutting files, construction drawings, assembly instructions, fitting out ideas maybe? And the mizzen is offset too? What's the problem with that? People are soo conventional! I don't agree with you on the gaff. On the contrary; looking at small sloops or cutters, historic or contemporary, the Sharpie fits in somewhere in the middle regarding gaff angles.

More horizontal gaffs are used primarily on larger craft with big topsails. This is a gaff, in contrast to a Gunther sprit, that is essentially an extension of the mast. My Sharpie has a relatively large sail area, which means you rarely need to start up an engine. The downside is of course that you need to reef early in a rising wind - which I prefer to motoring in the very light winds, where sailing in a flat-bottom, hard-chined, boxy boat will be a delight and not an ordeal.

And of course, the tabernacled gaff mast with shrouds and stay doesn't flex! But the unstayed lug mast does. There is no problem with an offset centerboard, which I try to explain on the sharpie-page.

The same goes for the offset mizzen mast. The only potential problem is the clash with old traditions even if those sometimes are not as traditional as some chose to believe - which I also mention the page. Rowing isn't a bad alternative since it is a relatively light boat with a healthy sail area that pushes her along faster than rowing even in very light winds.

But there are suggestions for an OB either on the transom or in a well, or a small electric motor under a bridge-deck but not detailed instructions on the plans. My business is plans, not kits. Furthermore, a lot of small things on the plans are suggested, not dictated, and the builder who wishes to do so and have the experience can adjust, change or invent after his or her ideas and experience.

The few builders who might feel at a loss without the insert-tab-A-into-slot-A type of instructions will find that I am happy to discuss or advice on anything throughout the building process.

Thank for pointing out the parasitizing of my website - imagine some clown stealing an entire website page, with headings, photos, formatting, and publishing it on a clueless share-site where you have to subscribe to read what is free on my site!

This is a light boat with a lot of sail area and rowing would be needed in dead calm only. And it is correct that I don't have any proper study plans, but if you send an email I will answer with printable desktop printer size images of the six drawings. Specify if you want the lugger or gaffer. My comment was that with the gaff peaked so high, the rig was close to a gunter.

I learnt to sail aeons ago in a lug rigged dinghy and the gaff was at a much lower angle. But I like what you have drawn - and I agree with your philosophy of having lots of sail for light airs, even if you are reefing early in stronger winds.

Is the whole hull glassed? That strikes me as unnecessary. With a 2 x 12mm bottom very heavy, but I suspect for ballast? The glass will provide abrasion resistance if you are consistently going up sandy or stony beaches, nothing more. You are effectively selling a kit. By the time the builder has laid out all the parts and then cut them, he has a kit, from which to build the boat.

So, why not leap over all the laying out and start off with the kit? The problem with most amateur boat building is that it takes too long and, not infrequently gets abandoned and lot of plans are sold and the boat s never built - I have a drawer full myself. One day! Tab A into Slot B works very well. The boat needs no jig or building frame, pulls itself together and with no twist.

And the boat gets built quickly - and most amateur builders are building because they want to get afloat asap, not because they are in love with building boats. The fiberglass doesn't contribute much to the structural integrity of the hull but reduces upkeep significantly � being a tougher and longer-lasting finish than paint.

But there are options for the hull: from fully glassed inside and out to just glassing the joints, from joining the plywood with wooden stringers to using epoxy fillets and fiberglass etc. The heavy bottom has a dual function: ballast as you suspect, but also because this kind of boat lends itself to sitting on the bottom in tidal waters or to be beached � the rudder and centerboard swing up easily when hitting the bottom or rocks.

I have over the years noted a slight difference in attitude between my customers in Europe and the US. The European amateur builders seem slightly more confident and competent buy the plans and a year later email some photos of the finished boat , while many American builders have more need for advice and instructions and ask questions that sometimes surprise me.

So, over there I think that kits might have a better market than around here On the 3D picture of bulkheads assembly, I've noticed that stem and first bulkhead connected to the rest of the construction with just a stringers.

Is it normal for hull construction strength? Or maybe there is some more carcass parts, that is not shown on this picture? Vlad, this is a simplified image to explain the construction method. Building the sharpie you would use a lot more small pieces of plywood and wood � or which I prefer , epoxy-glass fillets, giving a cleaner and more easily maintained interior.

In my country is needed a full project according CE regulations to obtain flag and register. CE-certification is the responsibility of manufacturers, producing and selling boats, primarily in the EU.

This site and the comments here are about building a kayak, canoe or boat for your own use � which is an entirely different scenario.

I see Bjorn, but, sorry, even for home builders it is required full project signed by naval architect to pass final inspection to obtain register and flag. There must be some misunderstanding here. CE certification not compulsory for homebuilders, but full project is required for register and flag. I am an Englishman and not so fussy - in fact in British traditional working boats assymmetry was typical in placement of the mizzen, bowsprit and especially lee boards as in the magnificent Thames sailing barge that sailed remarkably well with 2 lee boards on either side of the hull only one of which was lowered at a time, port or starboard, depending on the tack.

I think of the American Concord transcendentalist writer Ralph Waldo Emerson who said: "a foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds, adored by little statesmen and philosophers and divines. In my small website I have put connections to your project, I ask your permission to keep them or tell me if I have to remove them. If any influence, it would more likely be the other way around � Karl Stambaugh designed his Mist a few years before I drew up my Sharpie.

But I don't think there is a need to look for such direct influence. Both our boats are merely developed interpretations of a boat type that was quite common in the 50s, when marine plywood became available for boat building � and those, in turn, were simplifications of earlier boats from Alden, Williams, Warner, Giles et al � and nowadays often with a bit of Bolger thrown in for inspired use of sheet panel construction.

And you are, of course, welcome to link to my site, and also, if you would like, use material images, text from it. Molte grazie. L'amore per il tuo progetto mi ha tratto in inganno senza pensare ad un origine comune dagli Sharpie originali. What a beautiful boat. Have been looking to build a weekend boat and the Sharpie ticks all the boxes for me.

I served my apprenticeship as a boat builder, building fireballs, firefly,merlin rocket and Flying Dutchman.

For the last 30 years I have been building super yachts with GRP. My shed has now been extended read to build a sharpie. When I have the money I will be ordering your plans. Brilliant web site. Thanks, Graeme! I am excited to think about what a builder with your qualifications might do with my design ;-. I am thinking about the Sharpie as my next one.

What are your thoughts about building the sharpie in aluminum? I see no problems with that, though I can't assist you with material dimensions and such practical issues � no experience ;-. My view wouldn't add much, since it can be found in the text above and, of course, is quite biased ;-.

Show cart. Svenska English. Sharpie Latest updated Tuesday, January 19, , comments Images Particulars More about Background and history Plans, Sharpie - EUR Purchase Sharpie is designed as a daysailer and weekender, a use most boats are put to, regardless of their design purpose. Everything within reach without passengers being in the way.

No boom above the cockpit with the lug rig. Flexing masts reduce heeling in a gust also the lug. Easily lowered masts in a tabernacle gaff rig. Provisions for basic cooking. Room for a portable toilet. Usable in bad weather. Some kind of heating for use in early spring or late fall. Fast: Fast enough to cover considerable distances in a day. Safe: Self-righting after a knockdown.

The lug rig reefs without affecting sail balance. Ability to beat away from a lee shore in a blow. If possible unsinkable with built-in positive flotation. Small and handy: Should maneuver calmly and smartly under sail, motor or oars.

Low moorage fees - if applicable. Draft not more than 25 cm, allowing sailing on to the beach and drying out upright on the sturdy flat bottom. The rudder and centerboard should lift without damage if you hit bottom. Pretty: Pretty in a traditional way, under sail and on the beach. To maneuver calmly and smartly under sail, motor or oars. Low maintenance: Modern wood.

No permanent installations: electricity, plumbing, motor etc. If fitted with a motor, an outboard is recommended, preferably in a well but a few Sharpies have been fitted with a small inboard motor under a bridge deck. Easy trailering. Easy to handle: All conceivable maneuvering on land or in water should be possible for a competent single-hander.

With the gaff rig, the mast in a tabernacle should be easily lowered for passing under a bridge, while the lug rig masts are light enough to be handled manually. Easy to build: Designed for amateur construction, the Sharpie is built on 7 transverse and 2 longitudinal bulkheads, preassembled like a large jig-saw puzzle. The rigs The plans show either the lug or the gaff rig and this must be specified when ordering. The gaff sloop The mast of the gaffer sits in a tabernacle and can be lowered and raised in minutes to pass under a bridge.

The lugger The lug is an even older type of rig, with several interesting advantages. Touring persons. Sheets are: Lines Construction details Sections with a table of offsets Profile view Layout Rigging, masts and sails The boat is built with plywood � a simple and quick way to achieve strength and a smooth finish � double 12 mm sheets on the bottom, 12 mm on the sides and 9 mm on the deck and house. More on the Sharpie I frequently get questions about the off-center board, positioned 30 cm to the right of the centerline.

The gaff version: The lug version:. Sharpie � background and history The Sharpie started as a private project - an idea for a very simple, hassle-free, inexpensive and convenient way for me to spend time at sea. Sharpie was honored with a third place award in Classic Boat's design contest Perhaps a centerboard and a mizzen placed off-center were hard to take for English traditionalists.

At a personal level, I am not entirely comfortable with the asymetry of the off-center board and mizzen. Hang the rudder in a slot to allow for a central mizzen and centre the board and this little lug-rigged cat yawl complete with two-berth cabin, head and galley, would be just right fo a drying mooring. The high aspect ratio lug rig certainly suits the little boat. Allowing for my personal prejudices, I gave it a third place.

Sharpie or not? The plans files are pdf native, and can be converted to dwg and mailed. Bjorn, What are your feeling towards the different rigs? Thanks, Josh. Gigi, the plans price is the same regardless of format. Josh, some general thoughts on rigs: Both rigs are a bit archaic in the light of modern racing theory.

Merci Henri. Bjorn: I have been studying Sharpies for a while now and have found that your "" is the right boat for me. Thank you in advance, John. Bjorn: I write to inform you of my discovery of the Contessa. Fair winds to all John. John, same thought ;- I linked the video text, and put up some interior photos from Auduns site a few hours before you published your comment may take a while to notice since browsers may show cached versions first, and Google need a little time to index the new content.

Hello, Nice to see that so many are interested in the Sharpie. Hello I just saw your Sharpie Very beautiful boat! Thanks Gerrit, In essence a junk rig is a lug rig, so I see no reason why not. The plans include masts, rigging, hardware etc. Sounds very good! So the kg weight shown for the boat is with or without the ballast?

Isnt the centerboard far enough out of the way? The displacement figure is with the ballast. Pour cela il me faut connaitre le compte iban nr sur lequel je peux effectuer le virement. Andere Fragen: Wie viele Boote wurden bisher gebaut? Hi Fernando, I had to use Google Translate to understand your questions my spanish is good enough to order a beer, but not much more ;-.

I will use the boat to do trips during autumn winter and spring in the Mediterranean sea. Do you know if there are any built here in Spain? Do you have an estimate of material costs on this boat? Regards, Johan. Hi Johan No Sharpies in Spain � yet. A lot of kayaks got in the way ;- The cost is to a large degree dependant on the quality of materials.

Hi Bjorn, Thanks for the reply, I understand. I might do Gavin Atkins Ligt Trow in between to get some experience. But I will be around. Christian, Answer in English � I can order a meal in French with reasonable success, but not much more.

Hi Bjorn Approximately what speed could one expect under power with hp engine? Thanks Richard Browning. Rickard, hp is enough to get her very close to hull speed � which is approx 5,4 knots. Find a dealer Become a dealer. Knowledge center Product registration.

Q Downloads Gallery. Tested since by a few privileged sailors, this version has been able to demonstrate those useful advantages : invisible no complicated handling up and down easy start-up electrical output is the same compared to classic models The hydrogenerator POD is delivered with a mm aluminium leg; it will find its place under the hull of the boat to insure an on-board electrical output with the utmost secrecy. Ideal in original equipment.

Output : W from 5 knots. Two-year warranty. Output power curves Watt. Choosing The Propeller The propeller supplied in standard with the POD pack is the mm model which allows to produce 8 Amps at 5 knots. To produce at slowest speed, the mm diameter is available. The hydrogenerator is producing from the time your boat is sailing. From a regular speed of 4 to 5 knots, your energy needs on board are covered.

The drag is very low compared to the global boat drag. The hydro will not have any measurable impact on your speed. You have to respect 3 rules to choose the ideal location : The hydrogenerator should not be in the rudder blade axis to avoid water perturbations.

The leg must be vertical in the lowered position for the production to be optimized : the propeller axis must be horizontal, aligned with the water flow. Taking in account those 3 points, the mm or mm leg will be chosen.

A revision has to be done every 10 miles or every 2 years. Those professionals will answer your questions about the products and their installation on your boat. Please visit our page "Network" to find your reseller. It depends on your geographical localization. This information will be reported in real time by your dealer. Actually, the delivery time is usually within 2 business days in France.

Elsewhere, shipping delay may vary depending on your destination country. Where can the POD be fastened? The device has to be fitted in an UFO protected zone : we recommend behind the keel or the drift. Thus the device is protected and the hull is more thick, so the fastening is stronger. It is recommended to apply a copper-free anti-fouling on the hydrogenerator. The base can receive a classical thick treatment whereas the propeller should be covered by a very thin coat not to damage its hydrodynamic performances.

The propeller is designed to be easily taken off, in case it is damaged by an impact. The dismounting is simple and requires an Hexagonal Key and an extraction screw.

Do I have to put a fuse on the electrical installation of my hydrogenerator? Indeed, every battery bank has to be protected by a 50Amp fuse or thermal circuit breaker. The output power curves are available in the products descriptions. Generally our customers use the hydrogenerator from 8 to 12 hours in 24 hours to be in complete autonomy.

Please note that the solar panel will be taken into account by the converter when the hydrogenerator is not used only lifted up or not sailing. There is no need to take into account the color or the number of the three-phase cable connection. The 2 outputs of the converter and the battery banks must be at the same voltage.

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