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When Should You Re-oil Your Wooden Worktop? - House of Worktops

Skip to main content. Related: wood varnish clear wood stain varnish spray varnish wooden kitchen top varnish 20. Include description. Formby's 1 Items 1. Unbranded 2 Items 2. Not Specified 23 Items Smooth 1 Items 1. Traditional 1 Items 1. Not Specified 24 Items Not Specified 25 Items New Items Used 96 Items Not Specified 35 Items Please provide a valid price range. Buying Format. All Listings. Buy It Now. Item Location.

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This article was inspired by a question from Brian. He writes: I recently watched a woodworking show on TV. The cabinet maker used a mixture of linseed oil, tung oil, and polyurethane for the finish. He stated that he bought it off of the shelf.

Do you know of any product like this, or do I have to mix it myself? If I have to mix it, what is the ratio? You can buy things like Wooden Kitchen Top Repair Vision boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits in large gallon jugs, and then purchase the varnish as needed. I think its better to have a varnish component in the mixture for extra durability, unless you truly want an oil-only finish. Another advantage to mixing your own home brew is the fact that you will have total control over the finishes properties.

Want a more close to the wood look and feel? Add more oil. Want more protection? Add more varnish. Want to make the finish easier to spread around the surface? Add more thinner. And for more information on oil-based finishes, check out our video: Oil-Based Finish Basics.

The Wood Whisperer is proudly sponsored by brands that Marc trusts. Thank you for making this possible. All rights reserved. Designed and developed by Underscorefunk Design. What is your opinion on using spar varnish on this type of application? On another note, we have some acacia folding chairs and tables that are in need of a sanding and restaining. They are in great shape as they are in a covered area and stored every winter.

Do you think spar varnish would be a good finish for these? Use spar varnish only for exterior wood. Just use a good interior polyurethane. You can use the spar on the acacia pieces outside. The softer formula makes it able to expand and contract with the wood better, which helps prevent the finish from cracking.

It also contains a UV filter which is needed to protect the wood from breaking down in outdoor conditions. I recommend oil-based poly over water-based formulas.

It takes longer, but the resulting finish is 10x better looking. I just put 3 coats of spar urethane on a outdoor barn quilt and it is now yellow instead of white. I thought it would be clear. The background paint is white. Is this normal? Hi Scott. We are considering making a bathroom counter top with hard maple. What product do we need to seal it and be sure it is waterproof? The best solution is an epoxy coating, followed by several coats of oil-based polyurethane.

After they went out of business, I used Ponderosa Log Oil. The finish sits on top of the wood and has a glossy smooth finish which I like. Can you recommend a similar product? Any help? Hi Scott, I have a question about kitchen wooden counter tops. If you were finishing a wood counter top, what would you use for a high gloss, but low scratch potential, varnish?

We have an upcoming bathroom remodel. We saw a blog post for a wood floor company that said that we should use a spar poly on bathroom hardwood floors. It sounds like a good idea since the bathroom has humidity Wooden Kitchen Top Protector 75 and wet and temp changes. My husband brought up the fact that if that were the case then more people would recommend that.

What do you think? The spar is softer than regular so it may dent and wear easier but especially without a bath fan it could be a good idea. I live near the coast in California and there are quite a few shops for boating needs.

Thanks for the heads up on Epifanes�any particular source for buying it? The other point that i would like to bring up is sheen levels. The high gloss is the natural state of most varnishes, spar or otherwise, and in order to take that down a flatting paste is added. That also softens the surface which for most cases may not be desirable, so i usually lay down a base coat of a high gloss, then scuff sand and apply the finish sheen level desired.

The poly depends more on a mechanical bond when recoating, whereas with the traditional, a chemical bond cross link occurs. This simply means a scuff sanding after scraping any loose material is all you need to maintain it. The poly requires much more agressive sanding more work to acheive the mechanical bond needed. Epifanes for the door yes. For the pergola you might also consider an exterior stain like Sikkens.

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