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Stitch and Glue, Simple Wooden Boat Construction Basic "Stitch-and-Glue" Manual This manual describes the building of a small boat by the "Stitch-and-Glue" method, also known as "Taped Seams". The method originated in England in the early 60's and the first boat built was a Mirror Dinghy designed by Jack Holt. . For small boats, the Stitch and Glue method can be built on a pair of sawhorses in one bay of a household garage. For larger boats, the construction mold is designed into the actual boat. The parts that ensure you build a straight and fair boat are the same parts that become permanent elements of the unified structure, yielding an exceptionally. Page 1 - A tutorial on the stitch and glue method of boat building. Tech support home:: Builders & Tech Support Forum:: Boat building supplies:: Plywood store:: Boat plans:: Builder Gallery. News: Many of our kits are now delivered with CNC cut jigs. The jig is assembled like a puzzle. In most cases, the builder does not even need a tape measure.
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The method is more foolproof when building than compounded plywood. In this case the Carlson is largely enough. Third way, buy good detailed plans if you find one convenient design for you. The little expense and the big amount of time saved are more usefully invested in the building, always longer than believed. I do not see the interest of learning the FreeShip and the consequent hours spent on a computer for a so simple project I'm a white bearded Naval Engineer Keep the night hours for your girl friend or wife, it's funnier and healthier.

FreeShip is a rather good tool but it's as dangerous as a electric planer in not experimented hands for designing Do you need a computer driven hydraulic hammer to hit a nail in a plank? Do not have fascination for the apparently precise ciphers given by a software. First generally these ciphers are false on a so small boat, second these ciphers, even exact, are useless in a project like yours.

Ilan Voyager , Mar 19, The Gougeon brothers book is very instructive about tortured plywood as mentioned above. Tornado class catamarans are sometimes built with this method.

I suspect that you could get plans and instructions from the Tornado class group. Use half a tornado for your proa. If you want radiused chines while using flat panels for the majority of the hull, there is a way. At the intersection of sides and bottom use strip technique to make the chines round or any shape you might choose.

That is a composite technique that combines strip with stitch and glue. Matter of fact stitching would not be required as you will have made a suitable set of forms and ribbands. The process of drilling a zillion holes and later filling them and sanding the fill, is not my idea of efficient building practice or fun either.

Useful information from all. Thanks again for the advice. Very Very helpful I think that adapting a Catamaran design would work well for an outrigger canoe. Any resources on good catamaran templates? That maybe a great exercise in 'creative theft'. My experimention ply has been 'doorskin'. Easily found at building supply stores. I thought I was on my way but then found that it was a little difficult to bring that forward to the bow in a flowing manner. As I tried to force it into the curve i wanted i popped a few stiches and the Ply creaked cracked in protest.

I do think that it is possible though if I have some well designed stations to tack it to. Like one of you mentioned, if I can build some good stations, I may be able to skip some of the stitching. The other part to this, which led my explorations in design software, is to have the right shaped cut out of plywood that will direct my bending efforts with the ply.

I see great potential with Jeremy's example of the narrow electric boat. If you could imagine getting that design down You would have one seam down the centerline and that is it. Should make for easy construction. I will experiment with a few things here hands on and virtual through computer and make sure I leave time for My Fiance who has better lines than any boat I could build. Will report back on any interesting findings Some are good and others are not. The cracking is usually caused by voids in the center ply and most of the skins are not manufactured with water proof glue.

The 4x8 sheets are better quality usually. I used a heat gun to bend after a light soak. I tried several suppiers until I found some good sheets and built an 8" pram. It was a v-bottom hard chine design go I did not have much trouble with the bends at the bow. Very light boat. It seems that wood fibres don't mind stretching too much, but they very much object to being compressed.

Once I found that ply would bend more easily with a hot, wet rag on the inside of the bend things were a bit easier. Jeremy Harris , Mar 19, And good luck. Buy the Gougeon Bros book, expensive but truly worth. You'll find also the offsets for a class C trimaran, a good start idea for the boat you want to design.

Compounded plywood starts from the skin, bulkheads are fitted and added later. The most important is the deck jig. I counsel you one with supports so yo get a straight boat. Second point, the keel fiberglass width as it controls the fullness of the hull. You'll learn fast with the models. Do not use skin door. No waterproof glue and uneven bending. You could find very good skin doors 20 years ago. It's not more the case. Ilan Voyager , Mar 20, And for some really severe bends in wood, you can soak with household amonia.

Wicked stuff but it has a remarkable ability to make wood bendable. I do not recommend this method because It is a hazardous scheme. But it works. Another method for building a curvacious boat is the cold molding method. That method is also described very well in the Gougeon book.

Cold molding makes a beautiful boat that is both light, strong, and can be left nearly devoid of internal structural elements. Labor intensive but well worth the effort if you wish to make a really snazzy boat. Cold molding has no such restraints. Thanks again for the help. I have the book on order and will start there to build up more boat building knowledge and will mess around with models in the meantime.

Will hit you up for some more information when I am to the next stage. I am sure I will be in touch with the next stage of questions. Until then Comes with many, many free hull examples, all of which can be very easily modified.

Read the tutorial, it will produce panels and frames, etc. A lot of good advice; as a canoe builder perhaps I can add a few observations. The longer and narrower the boat the more difficult it becomes handling the planks, which are often too fragile to support their own weight especially if they are wider at the ends than at the middle.

For a long skinny canoe I would be surprised if you have to resort to steaming or hot water to get the planks to bend as required. Vertically you will need 1 more than the plank count per side.

Longitudinally, 3 will provide a sharp-ended canoe shape, 4 will allow a more rounded shape, more is needed only for unusual hulls or very bluff bows and stern. Correct longitudinal location of control points is key to the use of FreeShip. I first picture the curve I want, then imagine I am bending a batten to that curve. The points along a batten where I would have apply pressure tell me how many control points and where they need to be.

If the first try is way off just start a new model with different parameters. The Transform, Scale tool is very powerful and useful. For a new hull FreeShip will give you a transom; you close it for a canoe by setting its control point Y values to zero.

Check for leaks Tools, Check Model , these should only be along the gunnel. Make the planks developable Layer, Dialog. Create layers for each plank Layer, Auto Group. Then use Tools, Develop Plates. You can print or save these to a bitmap. Note that you can move the planks around and flip them to optimize use of ply material. To locate stations use Calculations, Intersections.

FreeShip will display plank deformation as a red area Mode, Developability Check. It is not sensitive to plank material characteristics but it tells you where the worst problems are likely to be. I used to use Luan door skin but the quality deteriorated to the point where it became useless even for models. I keep offcuts of the thinner marine plywoods for use on scale models of suspect planks.

If using a construction jig put in stringers along the chines so you can take off the plank developments from the jig.

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