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How to Build a Flat Bottomed Boat. Jon Boat Build Instructions � Flat Bottom Boat World

If you need help with lofting out the plans click here for an article, which should help. This Foot Folding Boat is designed as a portable boat for camper, hunter, fisherman and outdoor man who wants a boat for use anywhere but without the bulkiness of the average rigid one-piece craft. It folds to a compact flat bundle that may be stowed aboard any cruiser, auto, airplane, loaded on a donkey, or easily carried to point of destination.

Click Here for the Plans. It is suitable for those hard-to-reach places where conventional or rigid boats are difficult or impossible to transport or where boats are not available. Its marine plywood construction makes for easy simple flat bottom plywood boat plans and strong fabrication. Junior is a type of boat usually known as a yacht dinghy or tender, but there the comparison ends.

Yacht dinghies are notoriously cranky and hard to row, but Junior is of such ample dimensions and so carefully designed that it rows quite easily, carries three and even four adults propels well with small outboard motors, and could even be sailed, if fitted out with simple sailing equipment.

Last but not least, Junior makes an excellent car top boat for fishing or hunting anywhere, since it is lightweight, leak-proof and easily handled afloat or ashore. Here is ia small boat for big or little adventurers easily built of flat bottom design for those small tars who thirst for high adventure on a pond where the sunfish lurk.

Despite its small size the Jolly Roger also makes an excellent yacht dinghy for father. Rowing boat plan and construction is conventional, but easy.

Cork has end seats just the right distance apart for two anglers to face each other so one can see what the other is doing and for one to help the other net a fish, untangle a plug that may have snagged a line, or quickly shift oars if a fish requires it.

Cork handles so nicely because of her V-bottom scow ends are identical. Plywood sheet sizes! I want to build the Handy Andy, but find that the only size sheet of plywood is 8' by 4', is it a good idea to simple flat bottom plywood boat plans and down the measurements by 1'? From �. Woodboat building questions a Forum for wooden boat building, plans, lumber, caulking compounds and other boat building problems.

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Which type to use and how to use. A brief description of the most common Timber used for building Wooden Boats how to choose wood for your project boat. A brief guide to timber properties and wood, characteristics such as strength, stiffness and elasticity for choosing lumber for wooden boat building and restoration. Wooden boat building is easy and inexpensive with wooden boat kits. From row boats and kayaks to sailing cruisers, boat to be proud of.

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What Everybody ought to know about building Small Boats, guidance and tips for self-building or restoring. Free Sailboat Plans for the backyard home builder, build your own wooden sailboat using these simple plywood designs.

Free Motorboat Plans for the backyard home builder, build your own speed boat, cabin cruiser, runabout or utility boat using these simple plywood designs. Hi my name is Sarah. My dad Robert Spinks loved boats and sailing on the Norfolk broads and at sea, he spent many months blood sweat and tears restoring.

Does anybody have pictures of original look for a Elgin 14ft deluxe runabout? Woodboat restoration questions and answers Forum, get advice about simple flat bottom plywood boat plans and Wooden Boat problems in a free, no frills, no need to sign up forum. Woodboat materials questions a Forum for Wooden Boat owners on wood, caulking, epoxy, sail cloth and related problems.

Don't allow Winterizing Your Wooden Boat simple flat bottom plywood boat plans and become a chore, make a list, spread the jobs and visit her regularly, a wooden boat is not just for summer. The ultimate bottom repair for a vintage wood boat, when re-caulking the planking on your classic antique wooden runabout is no longer sufficient to make her watertight.

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DIY Wood Boat. Sea Skiff Sea Skiff is quickly built over forms for construction of one or for several boats. It is planked with waterproof plywood and will retain its leak-proof qualities even if left to dry in the sun for long periods. An ingenious method of framing makes for a sturdy boat and provides a hull that will give many years of trouble-free service.

The general rowing boat plan presents a sturdy skiff that may be used on any waters. The boat may be rowed, powered with air-cooled inboard motors or outboard engines, or rigged for sailing. As a sailer it is dry, light, and fast in a good breeze. Click Here for the free Plans. DIY Wood Boat Books page, step by step instructions for building the Sea Skiff simple flat bottom plywood boat plans and modern plywood building techniques and materials.

Sea Midge Designed with a convex bottom for maximum speed whether powered by sail, outboard motor or oars, Sea Midge is modelled on an Old World boat originally developed as a yacht dinghy for use upon the North Sea.

It is an excellent all-around work simple flat bottom plywood boat plans and and is light enough to be carried. Rowing boat plans and construction of Sea Midge are simplicity. DIY Wood Boat Books 92 page, step by step instructions for building the Sea Midge, pram dinghy, using modern plywood building techniques and materials.

Pod This dory is a natural for the man who likes a bit of exercise and appreciates the simplicity and silence of a well-designed rowboat.

A narrow bottom, tapered at both ends, simple flat bottom plywood boat plans and her to slice through the water with a minimum of effort and flaring sides make her safe and dry in a chop.

Pod, has a beam of 52in and an overall length of 15ft, 5in. Three pieces of marine plywood make up the sides and bottom and no frames are required. This rowing boat plan makes boatbuilding about as simple as it ever gets and the result is a light, clean hull with fewer places for rot to develop.

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Remember to keep birds in thoughts when winterizing your vessel as well. Meditative brazen by entertainment impending info is critical. It's not an costly hobby as we can squeeze kits for effectively underneath one .

But if you can do that, then no problem. Really good stuff that simplifies everything considerably, especially in regards to point of sail. The reason I chose the RV was purely for space reasons. Another question I had was in regards to whether the RV is suitable for roof rack transportation? Not having to buy a trailer would also cut down on costs :.

But I would also have a careful look through the basics of my online lessons as they are closer to the state of the art than many sailing schools. There has started to be large difference between what is taught and what the best sailors are using.

Also, have you considered the 12ft Oz Goose. The biggest reason for choosing the shorter OzRacer 8ft is the storage after building. The cost is only a little more because the sail and everything above the decks and the fittings etc are all identical. Building difficulty and time is identical too � about an hour different actually.

I then went down the rabbit hole and started digesting countless books, researched terminology and watched demonstrational videos. This also seems like a great beginner boat. My big question however is would you recommend I take sailing lessons before building and sailing the RV?

Hi Michael, Thanks for your prompt reply. I replied yesterday but had issues with my browser. Anyways a putt putt boat is fine and the ability to trailer the boat is paramount. Getting down around southern moreton bay or the Noosa river, lake Cootharaba. Do you know of any builds in my neck of the woods, sunshine coast.

Kindest Regards Tony. With the high thrust 10hp Yamaha it has substantial grunt. But despite the cabin you really need to think about it in terms of being like the old open Putt Putts.

There would be conditions that would be unwise to go out in, but plenty of conditions and parts of the bay that would be available as they are quite protected. It would start to get tricky heading up to the North part of the Bay parallel with Moreton Island with one of the strong North Easters. But down toward the South you would just pick the location relative to the water conditions on the same day. It will be a bit big as the wind gets stronger but sparkling performance in up to 12knots of breeze.

Might be exciting by the time the wind is at 15 and hard to sail in much more than that. Could trial it with the full rig and then get a local sailmaker to cut some sail off the bottom if it is too frisky and cut a similar length off the bottom of the mast.

Another way, though not very good upwind would be to wrap the sail around the mast a few times when the wind gets up. Though the sail shape will become a big baggy for going upwind well. There is also a supplement for the Eureka and other canoes as the freeboard can be a bit low for the drop in outriggers. I provide a drawing on request for making a mod and it also includes how to build the upper mast support into the front crossbeam.

The plan itself is more like an instruction book for boatbuilding techniques to build the particular boat. Do the steps one by one and you will have the boat. Basically you draw straight lines across the narrow width of the ply sheets at a set interval � dotted vertical lines in drawing below. Blue is the plywood. Green is the curve of the panel.

The dimensions are purple. Then put the end of the tape on the edge of the plywood and measure along each dotted line it will be a solid line on the ply. Put a mark at the distances from the edge shown in the plan.

After marking the points on the first line vertical line, do the same for the second line and so on to make a series of dots in a curve. If there is an error it will stand out either when you stand at the end of the sheets and look along the line, or the batten will tell you the point is out of place. If the point is out of place it is very likely a misread or a mismeasure as most of my plans have been corrected over time.

The CAD plans on the computer are super accurate, but sometimes a dimension arrow can be a little off. Hi Michael, Sorry just one more question about Eureka or I guess all of your plans in general Do you mail a full size printed pattern to trace the cuts from? If not how do you transfer the lines to a larger scale from the manual to plywood?

Also wondering if I should go with the larger volume and wider Eureka. Would this sail better with the outriggers? Harder to paddle? I bought plans for optimus maximus from you. I got to the frame complete stage, then a friend took over construction. A basic sail is part of the free supplement available to purchasers of the outrigger plan.

It provides a mast support built into the front crossbeam a flatter crossbeam curve to suit the Eureka and other boats and dimensions of a homemade lateen sail to be made of polytarp, or even regular sailcloth.

Our partner business Really Simple Sails does a 70sf lug sail. However we are stuck down with quarantine which I think will add a month.

In Northern hemisphere winter it goes down to 4 weeks. That sail is USD at this point April Hi Michael, Thank you so much for all the information! The Eureka with outriggers and sailing setup seems like the right way to go I think, especially fur versatility, plus allowing more people aboard comfortably.. One more question.. Hope you are well RP. The Viola will be OK while your son is really small. I designed it around being optimal for one adult.

But I left enough margin for decent sailing performance with two adults providing they are not too large. Maybe it tops out at around pounds or a bit more.

One up the Viola paddles pretty well, but it not optimum so will drop behind a proper paddling boat. The Eureka or Quick Canoe would have a much better ability to travel as a paddling boat with the family. If adding the drop in outriggers it makes sense to leave out the central spreader on these canoes and put two spreaders at the same distance apart as the crossbeams of the drop in rig but a couple of inches forward of the crossbeam locations.

As far as performance. The Eureka with outriggers will have a significant and sole advantage when reaching. But upwind and running the Viola will have significant advantages as it is set up like a racing dinghy. With the outriggers a 60 to 70sf sail seems to be about right. There is one in the free supplement for the buyers of the outrigger plan but we also make one at our sister business Really Simple Sails.

The thing with the drop in outrigger setup is that not to fixate on pointing high. Get heaps of speed and then point up without losing the speed. If light winds sit to heel to leeward so the leeward hull is well immersed. Or make a leeboard for the eureka. Also, how does sailing performance compare with Eureka and amas, vs Viola?

With this crazy pandemic, seems like a good time to build a boat out in the carport! There are many centre hulls that are suitable. Many canoes as long as you can attach the strong points for the crossbeam lash down points. So almost any variation of wood, fibreglass or aluminium. Is it a Eureka. If i wanted to build a trimaran canoe, what centre hull design would you suggest?

Good Day- i would like to chat to Michael about some design work. Is there any direct contact info for him many thanks wayne. The Oz Goose can be out sailing any time that other sailing dinghies are out. It can go conditions that are a bit rougher than many conventional dinghies will not handle well. The goose is very stable and that stability gives it a lot of power.

Also if you do capsize the Goose comes back up with no water inside. This article about sailing in stronger winds and rough water from the Oz Goose Website may be useful for background.

If you mean the Ooze Gooze, the cabin version by Perttu Korhonen it has less capability than the Oz Goose in rough water. For which type of waters salt or fresh was the Gooze designed?

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Sailing Dinghy. Canoe performance and Dinghy stability. A beautiful plywood Stand Up Paddleboard designed for distance paddling. Justifiably famous. Simple to build but light, fast, pretty. Fast with 1 to 4 adults Rows and Motors and will sail rings around other character boats. Even looks good on the beach.

Keeps the simplicity and low materials cost of the Quick Canoe Family. The Oz Goose is a small boat that is super easy to build.

Boat speeds are very matched for excellent tactical racing when not heading off for a family picnic with two adults and a bunch of kids aboard For training, the goose will carry an instructor and two adults to sail with good sensitivity and speed. Everything removes as one unit except for the mast step. Even an elderly Grumman! Outboard motored Punts are the simplest plywood boats. Good performance, easy construction, stable fishing platforms.

And lightweight for cartopping on roof racks. Simple plywood waveski or paddleboard from two sheets of plywood. Paint it and keep it on the car roof ready for use after work. Or Adult and a couple of kids. Pretty and quick rowing boat on the water. Cuts through river and lake chop with zero bouncing and pitching. Great appearance, sleeping accom.

Very economical, near wakeless cruising motorboat. Light on the gas and light on building materials. Hi Gary, It will put a lot more load on the hull because of the large increase in stability. A good flat-bottom boat is one of the most useful boats you can own.

It will pay, I think, to have at least a rowing station with oarlocks and seat for when the motor won't go, but the seat can be shipped to one side when not in use, so that still leaves the boat free of cross members. PAR will, I'm sure, provide you with a good set of plans or modify to suit, but by all means maske sure the bottom is rigid enough and that the connection to the sides is well braced.

Otherwise, the boat will practically build itself. Hey guys, Thank you for the replies. I've spent a bit of time reading the forum and looking at other 'jon boat' plans on the net, and I've modified my initial design.

In the future, I may purchase plans and modify them to suit my own design, but for this first project, I think I'm going to just go with this basic design and consider purchasing plans in the future for something a bit more complex, even though I have questions about this 'simple' design!

One of the goals of this little project is to just keep it as simple and cheap as possible for now. I was wondering if someone could answer a few ques that I have: In the attached picture, there is the rough outline and dimensions, as well as the proposed 'skeleton' of the boat made from 2x2s.

I have a center 'transverse' beam in lieu of making seats so I can have an open concept. Does this plan look stable enough now, or are the few 'extra' transverse beams that I've now included overkill since it will be epoxied? I would be putting cloth and epoxy on the outside and inside of all seams, but should the entire boat surface be coated as well, or just the seams?

The entire underside would be epoxied of course, but does the entire inside need it as well, or just the seams? Do I now have 'too many' transverse beams? Again, the boat will be used for shallow, calm water, and will have rub strips along the underside for added stability and for protection from rocks etc.

JPG File size: 1. VV Cephei , May 2, Too complicated Use a 1x6 for a buttblock in the after section. Don't try to have a sharp angle forward Jons have a curve for a few reasons, one being that plywood bends.

There may be a bit of flex to the panels but that won't be damaging to the structure. If you double up on the wales and use some external skids you won't have many problems.

Why don't you want any seats? At the very least put a bit of curvature in the bottom as it will help stiffen it and prevent oil-canning. Curvature can make the ply act as if it was twice as thick, without the weight and cost, and it will go faster and smoother. You can google PDRacer for an example of a boat with curved bottom and flat sides. A bit of a curve will do the same thing for the sides: they do not have to come all the way in to a point at the bow.

If you make the front plate pram transom slope a bit the boat won't Simple Flat Bottom Plywood Boat Plans Mod come to an abrupt stop when you run into a wave form a bigger boat see PDRacer again. At this point you will find you have something looking more like a boat. It is actually easier to do it this way than the way you have sketched: ply bends easily and it will save you have to make joints that are strong enough and waterproof.

The butt joints can be made with the planks flat. Most ply boats have a stiffening member along the top sheer of the side planks which is called a gunnel. You're not alone in avoiding curves at all costs! Curves are not hard to do at all, especially on a jon boat. You may not curve the sides but absolutely try and curve the bottom into the bow. The rocker will as mentioned add stiffness across the boat, eliminating the need for so many frames.

Just spring a batten along the sides to give about " of rocker and copy one side to the other. If the sides are parallel, lie the chine logs down flat and they will, if coaxed, curve right up to the bow as well as curving easily along the bottom. Usually, chine logs are vertical, but in your boat they won't take the curve that way. Use seats as frames, and hide flotation in them Three cavities, both bow and stern shelves and the center thwart seat.

Hey, It's been awhile, and I thought I'd update this thread with what I ended up doing. First, thank you to everyone who gave their advice and input in this thread, it was much appreciated, and much needed. Well, I realized that my square design that I had initially come up with wasn't going to cut it, so I took the advice to make some curves in it.

The length of the boat is 10'. It is 46" wide at the stern, 48" in the middle, and narrowing to 38" at the bow. It is 18" high at the stern, and it's 20" high in the middle before tapering off towards the bow. There is a layer of 6oz epoxy 'mat' underneath and coming up 6" or so on the sides.

I used a lot of epoxy on the bottom, more than I should have, but it was my inexperience at 'fiberglassing' that caused me to use so much. I decided not to put seats in it, because I want the space for carrying things I have in it, but I included a 2x2 across the top and bottom near the middle of the boat. It will be only for slow speeds 2hp outboard and used in fairly shallow, calm water. The pictures I have here are before I put the epoxy and cloth on.

I have more pictures I could show, but it seems that I'm at my size limit here with the 3 pics I've already posted in this thread. Anyways, I wanted to come back to say thanks, and also to show you guys what I ended up doing. Any comments, questions, or criticisms are welcome! VV Cephei Simple Flat Bottom Plywood Boat Plans List , May 29, You have built your self a Jon boat. Add a couple skegs to keep her tracking straight.

Looks much better than the proposed drawing To post pics your best bet is to find a free site that hosts pics then link to them. You may find that it will be fairly easy to twist it without any bulkheads to give it rigidity so a couple of knees from side to bottom might be in order to help with this.

The quick and easy way to find do this is to get corner molding at the box store Two or three per side should work Steve. Well done.

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