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50 Wood strip canoes ideas | canoe building, wooden boats, wooden canoe Detailed instructions for building this type of form are given in the book, The Wood and Canvas Canoe. The B.N. Morris plans offer three different styles of construction in one set of plans. Construct this canoe as (1) a Wood Canvas model, (2) an all-wood Rushton-style canoe, or (3) a modern wood strip and fiberglass canoe. A strip built boat is made of small strips of wood so if you were wondering where the name came from, now you know. The method is often called cedar strip, because the wood used is typically cedar. It does not have to be. Any straight grained, light-weight wood can be used.
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The B. Morris plans offer three different styles of construction in one set of plans. Construct this canoe as 1 a Wood Canvas model, 2 an all-wood Rushton-style canoe, or 3 a modern wood strip and fiberglass canoe. Any use of these plans to construct boats intended to be sold is strictly prohibited. Construction plans and materials list are included. The plywood stations are shipped in one box via UPS. Cost will vary depending upon the canoe model and shipping location.

This kit includes all materials to build a form. The form kit will be shipped in two packages. Most of the materials for the form are shipped in one long wooden box by common carrier. The plywood stations are sent in one box by UPS. This kit contains all the pre-cut materials required to build the canoe.

Included are pre-cut and shaped white cedar ribs, half ribs and planking, spruce rails beveled and rabbeted as needed, pre-bent stems, pre-finished caned seats, a clinching iron, brass tacks, bronze bolts and stem bands, canvas, canvas filler, varnish and your choice of marine finish paint. The shipping for canoe kit materials consists of three different packages. Acceptable sawn strips may be produced by a well-tuned saw, a sharp thin kerf blade or blades, long and rigid infeed and outfeed tables, and the capability to feed the plank tight against the fence for the entire length of the cut with no wavering.

Not impossible, but not likely, either. Slicing planks into enough strips to build a guideboat requires passing over a thousand linear feet of wood past the blade of a saw. We can reduce that amount by one half using gang-mounted blades on a table saw to cut two strips at a single pass Figure These 7 to 8-inch blades are usually used in portable circular saws, but with the correct size arbor hole, adapt quite nicely to table saw use.

Using two blades separated by a spacer in a gang-cutting configuration produces the same total kerf waste as the standard inch table saw blade, but two strips are produced rather than one. There are a few considerations in the design of a blade spacer for gang cutting. Its diameter should be the same as the saw's arbor flange to prevent distortion stresses on the blades when the arbor nut is tightened.

Machining a metal spacer is a luxury; making a solid wood spacer is a practical and satisfactory alternative. Any of the common hardwoods may be used for the spacer.

This is not a precise dimension - a ruler measurement is sufficiently accurate at this point. Counter boring the arbor hole first leaves a dimple in the bottom of the counter bore that is used as a center point for the lead drill of a circle cutter, which is adjusted to the same diameter as the arbor flange.

Once the spacer has been cut from the blank, the arbor hole may be completed. Drilling in this sequence assures that the circumference of the spacer is concentric with the arbor hole. Figure Table saw setup for gang cutting strips.

A new zero clearance insert on the table saw is required to accommodate the twin blades. A simple alternative to making a new one is to turn an existing insert around end for end and cut the twin slots along the side opposite the standard blade slot. With the blades and spacer mounted, lower the blades and install the insert. Turn on the saw and slowly raise the blades to cut the new clearance slots. Adjust the fence so that the inner strip width will be the same as the outer one, and make a test cut.

The outer strip thickness may be adjusted by shimming between the spacer and a blade. A sacrificial push stick is also shown, along with a shop-built feed helper. The nail points just penetrate the plywood and securely bite into the surface of the board, permitting both forward and lateral pressure while feeding.

True enough. But the reason for making nice smooth uniform thickness strips lies in milling accurately centered bead and cove edges, which leads to a cleaner hull.

The generation of less kerf waste when cut with a band saw is a non-issue, since planing off the saw marks generates waste comparable to that generated after cutting with a table saw. Band-sawn strips, when cut oversize and planed as described above, are perfectly acceptable, however. Routing the Edges. The ridge along the outside of the glue joint when such strips are mounted to the ribs will be quite small, requiring a minimum of scraping or sanding to bring fair.

This accurate fit ensures a good glue joint with no gaps or voids. No gaps mean fewer fills. Fewer fills mean less work filling, scraping, and sanding. When buying bits, consider that a few thousand linear feet of cutting will be performed in making strips for a single boat.

Bit quality considerations should take precedence over cost, and keeping the bits sharp is important but not difficult. Sharp bits cut cleanly, reduce tear out, and given the amount of cutting to be done, reduces strain on the router motor.

A few passes over a medium to fine grit diamond sharpening stone on the inside flat surface of the cutters is sufficient. The equipment setup for milling the strip edges is not difficult or complicated. A table mounted router, fence, and at least three feather boards are all that is necessary.

Long infeed and outfeed tables are a luxury, the lack of which can be compensated for by proper handling during cutting. Routing operations using a table-mounted router are nearly always performed by feeding the work against the rotation of the bit.

Viewed from above, the router bit rotates counter clockwise and the stock is fed from the right to the left. The bit rotation tends to pull the stock into the bit, keeping the work against the fence. Strips may be milled in this fashion, but significant tear-out can result when the grain changes slope. Cedar is not very strong between grain lines and will crack or tear out, especially while cutting the more fragile cove edges. Back routing, sometimes called climb cutting, reduces tear-out to nearly zero and produces a superior quality milled edge.

In this method, the work piece is fed with the rotation of the bit. Back routing with a hand held router is extremely difficult to control, with the router suddenly wandering off line, potentially ruining the work. In a router table, back routing can grab the work piece and propel it with near rifle-like force. However - when properly set up and carefully executed, back routing is quite safe and will produce nearly perfect bead and cove strips regardless of changes in grain orientation.

For back routing strips, the feather boards are adjusted to keep the stock firmly against both the table and the fence. When fed into the cutter, there is no tendency for the bit to grab. In fact, the stock must be pushed or pulled through the entire length, with full control. Before beginning the edge milling, set two strips aside.

These can be damaged or low quality poor color strips, and need not have any edge treatment. They must be full length since they will be used as alignment battens for the ribs, and later as anchors for the bungee cords used for clamping the actual glued strips. They will ultimately be discarded and not become any part of the boat.

The bead edge is cut first so that the beaded edge will then bear against the feather board when the coves are cut. If the cove edges were cut first, the pressure of the feather board against the fragile cove edges would damage them. The bead bit is installed in the router and its height adjusted visually so that there is a smooth transition between the surface of the table and the curve of the cutter.

This adjustment is later refined using a short piece of actual strip to be milled. The fence is then adjusted so that the apex of the curve is tangent to the fence. Again, further refinement will be done. Now place a piece of strip against the fence so that it spans the cutter, and long enough to extend at least a foot on either side. The cutting edge will have to be rotated out of the cutting position so that the strip will lie against the fence on both sides of the bit. Place one feather board flat on the table to bear against the strip, centered at the cutter and pushing the strip against the fence.

Place the other two feather boards vertically against the fence so that they push down on the strip. These should be located just before and just after the cutter opening in the fence.

See Figure Router setup for back routing bead and cove edges. With the power off on the router, push the test piece through the feather boards. It should be a snug fit, and require some effort to pull it back out.

Check the feather boards, making sure they are not cocked against the strip and all of the teeth are bearing against the strip. Remove the test piece and turn on the router. Feed a few inches of the strip into the cutter, holding it securely. If there is any tendency for the strip to move on its own, stop and readjust the feather boards to provide more pressure. The ideal adjustment is achieved when the strip must be pushed into the rotating cutter, and will not move when you let go of it.

Examine the short test piece. The bead should be centered, with no shoulder. If any shoulder is apparent, adjust the vertical height of the bit to correct it.

The top of the bead should be round and in alignment with the flat uncut portion. There should be no flat area on the top of the bead 2.

If there is a flat, the fence must be moved back so that the bit cuts deeper. If the bead is below the level of the uncut edge, too much stock is being removed and the fence must be moved forward.

Bead cutting problems are illustrated in Figure Bead cutting problems. With the router and feather boards properly adjusted, turn on the router and feed a strip into the cutter. When about two or three feet have passed the outfeed edge of the router table, change your position to pull the rest of the strip through.

Keep the strip level with the table as you pull it, using one hand between the outfeed feather board and the edge of the table to keep the strip flat on the table, and letting the finished end fall to the floor. If you push the entire strip through with no outfeed table or other means for maintaining the strip level, the flexing of the strip as it drops to the floor will lift it off the surface of the table slightly, even against the pressure of the feather board.

The result is a bead that is not centered, and all the setup and test runs will have been wasted. Be careful sliding your hand along the strip to gain a new grip.

Slivers are possible, and can be surprisingly painful. Leather work gloves work well here. All of the beads should be cut once the router is set up simply as a matter of convenience. It takes time and patience, with several test cuts, to get the fence, feather boards, and router working in harmony.

Changing to cove cutting is best left until all of the beads have been cut. Some builders prefer to keep the strips in the natural order as they were cut from the plank. This permits book-matching strips on each side of the boat, eliminating the need to sort through a pile of randomly stored strips to select one of just the right color.

This approach works well for strips that are naturally full length, but it becomes increasingly difficult to maintain the Diy Wood Strip Canoe 90 order when shorter strips are scarfed together to provide the needed length. We know of at least one professional builder who mills his strips, then sorts and arranges them side by side on a very long and wide table.

The final color matching and strip layout for the entire boat is thus achieved, and handling the strips after this initial sorting is minimized. The strips are then mounted on the hull in the sorted order. The setup for cutting coves is the same as for cutting the beads, with the obvious exception of the router bit. Once the bit is changed, the adjustments of the bit height, fence location, and feather boards are the same as for bead cutting.

Test pieces are run on strips with the beads already cut. The ideal cove is centered on the strip and has very small but perceptible flats about 10 mils wide on the edges. These dull edges will be less fragile than if the cove is cut deep enough to form a knife-edge. Variations for cutting coves have been noted among some builders, both amateur and professional.

One recommendation is to cut the coves shallow, leaving a significant thickness on the edges. This excess must later be faired off, reducing hull thickness. This is an impossible job on the inside of a guideboat, given the interference of the ribs. Both of these alternate milling methods may be acceptable for kayak construction where the inside of the craft is not seen, or to canoes where the absence of ribs easily permits proper fairing. For guideboat construction, cove edges that resemble the edge of a very dull knife will be sufficiently sturdy to resist breakage under careful handling conditions, while still permitting reasonable ease of fairing both the inside and outside of the hull.

Before cutting the coves, set two beaded strips aside. These should be full-length good quality strips, to later be mounted as the sheer strips. A cove on these strips is not necessary; in fact, it is not recommended. The boat will be stripped with the beaded edges up from the sheer to the bottom board, and the sheer strip will see a lot of epoxy drips when the outside of the hull is fiberglassed.

Having a coved sheer edge complicates the clean up and may compromise the design location of the sheer. Once all of the adjustments have been made, run a full strip through and verify the quality of the cove. Potential problems are shown in Figure Cove cutting problems.

When pulling the strip through the router, be very careful handling it. Grip the center portion of the strip with your thumb and fingertips to prevent putting pressure on the cove edges and possibly cracking them. When the milling is complete, carefully lay the completed strip safely aside off the floor on a bench, across sawhorses, or on some other safe storage support.

Some shops use two routers set up to simultaneously cut the bead and cove edges. The advantage is a savings in time, but at the expense of requiring a more extensive set up and double the noise intensity. A dedicated router table is required, and once set up and adjusted, is used for no other purpose.

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