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Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by CadwelderJan 9, Log in or Sign up. Boat Design Net. I'm replacing the stringers and deck in a 92 Astro bass boat trailer restoration file boat, my question is about the strakes. They are hollow now I'm sure the wood has just rotted away and rather weak, I was going to just glass another layer over them, restoratuon just my wieght cracked two of.

Should I go ahead and take them out, reform them and replace, or just try to form up resotration cracked part and reglass? If I replace them what are your thought on what to use as bass boat trailer restoration file I thought of using schedule 20 very thin PVC conduit rippied in half?? CadwelderJan 9, What this means is you'll need a lot more material. PARJan 9, Here's is a picture of the strakes in question I think my terms are correct I went ahead and cut a section out and it is definetely just a cardboard tube that was used at the factory.

Since we've gone this far done, I'll take your advice and just cut them out makes for easier grinding with them gone anyway and rip a cardboard bass boat trailer restoration file tube in half to form.

There only function is to stiffen the hull a bit right? I'm using polyester resin. The Strakes. If you cut them out, you'll have to replace the laminate, plus bass boat trailer restoration file additional laminate you'd like bass boat trailer restoration file include.

Why replace what's already there, when you can just top it off. A layer or two of over the whole area will stiffen things up fairly. Reinstall the cut restogation pieces before you apply the fabric mat side down of course.

Good bass boat trailer restoration file hear theI have enough of it to build the boat from scratch. I going to use it to attach the new stringers. I'll just use some cardboard tube to fill in the broken areas and glass over them and then over traiker patch and the remaining with the same cloth I tie in the stringers. Do you think one layer of voat. Had even pressure all over, for 24 hours.

I'll clamp the wood to the transom with equally even pressure. You could skip all the bass and just dill a bunch of holes, say on 2" centers to let air escape as it's clamped in position. Fill the holes after you pull the clamps, then tab the plywood to the hull shell with moreat least 6" of overlap on the hull shell and transom and at least 2 layers.

Much of this depends on how much power bass boat trailer restoration file intend to throw at this transom. Naturally, the more HP the outboard, the more bass boat trailer restoration file. So yes, with good fi,e 1. Well actually the boat is rated for a HP, it has a Merc that will be bass boat trailer restoration file back, pushes the boat in the high 60's mph.

My plan was to tab in 12" on the first layer of16" on the second layer and all the way to the sides on the third and final layer. The stringers tie into the transom along with the transom cross members also for added support. Should I go heavier duty? Your tabbing overlap is great, though with these HP figures you restoratikn increase laminate thickness, doubling what you. Also the transom should be a minimum of 2" thick, though most would be 2.

You can go too light on your tabbing, but not too heavy. The same is true of its thickness. PARJan 10, Because of the way the top cap is made, I done some measuring, and by the time you figure in the thickness of the skin. I don't have a problem with modifying it if you think I.

CadwelderJan 10, I think they were pushing the limit fille the scantlings on your boat to tweak a few extra knots of top speed out of. A really dumb idea in terms of longevity, but seeing as how you're now rebuilding her less then a couple of decades later and the obviously thin stringers you previously noted, not such a big revelation.

Most production built craft like bass boat trailer restoration file have been "skimped" on in most every category, with laminate thickness and tabbing as big areas to cheat. Make your tabbing heavier then they did and the stringer laminate thickness heavier. It's clearly undersized as I feel the transom thickness is as. The tight stringer spacing indicates they knew the area was under high load and it appears they also used a heavier laminate from the factory, but only enough to get them through the warranty period.

Lastly, if you bulk up the transom and the deck cap doesn't want to slide back down over it, you restorayion grind Bass Boat Trailer Restoration Id the top of the transom down a tad to get it to fix good. So long as the core to skin interface is solid and the tabbing wide and thick enough, you'll be stronger then it was previously, which is apparently good enough for a 18 or so years.

If restogation bottom laminate stringers included at the base of the transom and surrounding bass boat trailer restoration file plane patch area are good and stiff, the engine torque will transfer from bass boat trailer restoration file bracket mount to the bass boat trailer restoration file bottom without resoration and the laminate bxss not twist itself to death, which is likely what did in the previous laminate.

Keep stroking it, you're doing fine. Cool, will do just that on the transom now when I set the stringers in should I bed them in thicken resin mix, industrial adhesive, or just lay them against the hull? CadwelderJan 11, I'm not sure I follow.

If it's a cardboard tube, then you don't need anything, just place it where it belongs. Are you talking about a wooden stringer, before you 'glass it over? If it's a wooden stringer core, you can bboat them against the hull, though some will complain about hard spots and oil canning. Don't try to mash the goo out from under the core, just let it sit on top.

If using the goo in a eestoration approach, then wait a day or two to let the goo cure. Next build up a fillet on each side of the stringer so the 'glass doesn't have to make a hard, 90 degree turn. PAR bass boat trailer restoration file, Jan 12, No no, not the cardboard, sorry I wasn't clear.

Yes to the bass boat trailer restoration file stringers, I've never worried about "hard spots" but thought I'd ask and yes the factory obviously didn't worry about them. I usually make a resin paste for fillets and use a round over bit on my router for outside corners. Will one layer of be good to attach the stringers wooden ones or should I double that?

They are 5" tall tapers toward the front of course and run from the transom to within 38" of the bow. CadwelderJan 12, Okay, we're on the same page. The bull nose bit is how I do it. All of the laminate is going to "attach" the stringers to the hull shell.

Ideally you'll want a chemical bond with this, as a mechanical bond isn't very strong with this resin. I'm not sure how much it's going to take to bulk up to the thickness you need, but the goal is at least the same thickness as previously which was probably a little too light.

I mention this because I'm a mostly epoxy guy and I don't used "bulked" fabrics like very often, as epoxy doesn't need the bulk. To answer your question, yes a single layer of will "tack" them down, but you'll want to get the rest of the laminate on the stringers while the resin is still "green".

Someone give Par some points for his help. The man sits on rep points and we're in already FanieJan 12, You must log in or sign up to reply. Show Ignored Content. Similar Threads. Opinions on bass boat design ShrimpkinNov 30,in forum: Boat Design. Replies: 15 Views: 5, Shrimpkin Dec 5, Replies: 1 Views: 1, PAR Nov 26, Design help? Replies: 4 Views: 1, Bass Boat cdhc10Apr 13,in forum: Boat Design. Replies: 0 Views: 1, Replies: 2 Views: 1, Lemonsaville Nov 7, Cabin on a bass fishing boat?

DrewWaldenDec 23,in forum: Boat Design. PAR Dec 24, Replies: 7 Views: 5, PAR Feb 24, Replies: 6 Views: 8,

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In addition to taking photos, take measurements of where things like the axle, winch, bunks, or rollers, and any spare tire may go. For this project, I wanted to get the trailer back to just the frame and start from there. I removed the old rotten wooden bunks, the very rusty winch, the lights, and safety chains.

The added benefit was that with these components removed, the bare trailer frame was much lighter and easier to handle. I was able to singlehandedly flip the trailer to check the underside, something that would have been impossible with the wheels, springs, and axle in place. Much of the galvanized coating was in good condition, and the main structural members, I was pleased to note, were all in sound condition.

A thorough wire brushing to remove surface rust and scale was pretty easy, though messy and time-consuming. I followed this with a good acetone wipe to clean the surface and prepare it for me to spray cold galvanize paint on all the exposed areas. Some components, especially around the bunk mounts and light brackets, were pretty corroded and required cutting off with an angle grinder.

Reassembly of the trailer was straightforward and quick. I measured for the new bunks using the old ones as templates. Then I cut them from treated pine 2-by-6 boards and covered them with new carpet, which I glued with contact cement and stapled with stainless steel staples on the underside.

To reattach bunks and other components, I used Grade 5 galvanized steel bolts and washers and Nylock locking nuts to eliminate rusting and rattling loose. With the new bunks and winch in place, I wired the trailer with new LED lights and wiring kit, taking care to use grommets and other insulating material where the wiring insulation might chafe. After reinstalling the fiberglass fenders with new stainless bolts, we were ready to winch the boat back onto its trailer.

With a couple of helpers to ensure it goes steadily, the process is much easier than it sounds. Many lighting kits come with these squeeze Scotch-Lok type of wiring connectors that don't stand up to regular dunking. Use waterproof crimp connections instead:. The old trailer was in a sorry state.

One of the first jobs was removing the old trailer bunks:. The dirtiest part of the job was removing the old rust prior to refinishing:. To protect the light wiring from chafe and keep everything neat, I used these clips, which require no drilling or alterations to the trailer:. In addition to the bunks themselves I replaced the severely corroded support brackets:.

I attached waterproof carpet to the bunks using contact cement and stainless steel staples:. Before hitting the road, double check all your work, make sure all bolts are tight, and bunks or rollers are well secured. If there is any possible issue, have a professional shop check it.

Your trailer will probably be seeing highway duty, so it must be in good condition. In some states you may need to have your trailer inspected, so check with your local Department of Motor Vehicles for regulations in your area. Often smaller trailers without brakes have less stringent requirements than larger twin- and triple-axle trailers capable of carrying heavy boats, but it always pays to check.

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Renew Membership. Boat Insurance Membership Boat Towing. Boat Insurance. Boat Towing. Membership Plans Savings. Boat Show Tickets. Boat Lettering. A portion of the casting deck was clearly rotting and needed to be rebuilt. On top of all that, the carpet was torn throughout the boat and smelled as if animals had been living in it for quite some time. That, plus it was just generally filthy throughout. Consequently, this thing was priced to get it off the lot.

Looking through all the flaws, the boat seemed to have good bones and the electricals were all in good working condition it did end up needing some light rewiring. My uncle is a boat mechanic and part owner of the shop and vouched for the boats structural integrity.

The three of us are quite handy and knew it would be a lot of work, but we knew we could make this boat nice again. So we decided to chip in to buy the boat and get our restoration project underway. This is a picture of the boat the day we took it off the lot:. Shortly after we got it home we started stripping it down to the bones and got to work:.

One of the many tedious tasks of removing the old carpet glue:. Lucky for us, my brother is a welder so he was able to weld a new winch post back on to the trailer the shop gave us a new winch post with the sale. The second issue caused by the accident we also got lucky in that we were able to bend the motor back into place. We were able to brace the motor bracket against a telephone pole with a steal beam to keep the whole trailer from sliding across the road learned the hard way that is what would happen.

Then we used tie down straps wrapped from the telephone pole to a farm jack to the boat motor. It took both my brother and I winching the jack but the motor bend back into place and moves perfectly within its bracket when trimming up and down. Wet sanding, compounding, polishing, and waxing proved to be the most tedious part of the project as it took 3 full weekends to do the entire boat. Before and after pics on a small section below:. The next cosmetic upgrade was painting the motor cover since the sun had taken its toll over the years:.

My brother made a custom dash in order to reposition the gauges and fit our fish finder mount conveniently:. This weekend we just finished glueing in the new carpet, installing the new seats, and buttoning back up all the odds and ends we had to remove over the course of the project. As she sits now, ready to fish! Very nice job! Can you explain in more detail the steps you took with the carpet install, glue used, tips and tricks, etc?

I am at the point now where my roll of carpet is in the mail, but I haven't decided on the type of glue yet, standard marine glue trowel type , or contact cement, or 3M super adhesive, etc.

Shows what a lot of hard work can do for an old boat. Went from a mess to looking new. Enjoy the sweet ride. Carpet install is a bit tricky. What worked well for us was keeping the old carpet to use as a template when cutting out the new pieces.

We would trace the old piece, then cut out the new carpet about two inches bigger than where we traced. Then we layed it in the boat and pressed it to the edges. Then we used a razor to cut away the excess.

We did this for all the sections where you are glueing directly to the boat. For these sections we used the trowel type glue so that we were able to work the carpet after laying it rather than it being stuck immediately like it would be with contact cement.

For the compartment lids and the removeable section of the casting deck that we needed to rebuild, we used contact cement. I MUCH preferred working with contact cement where possible. When cutting carpet for the compartment lids, we simply traced the lid then measured to add enough of a buffer so that we could fully wrap the carpet around the edges. The great thing about using contact cement on the lids is that you do not have to clamp while drying like you would with the trowel type.

Even after being placed for a split second, it would likely rip the carpet if you tried to remove it. I don't know about any tricks to offer you other than to be very careful, but I can offer a few tips.

First, make sure you cut the new pieces out of the fresh carpet so they are all oriented in correct direction. The carpet has a "grain" that runs one direction. If you are cutting with a goal of making the most efficient use of the carpet you bought, the boat will end up looking two toned as the light reflects off the grain differently depending on the angle you are looking at it.

You should determine the front and back of each compartment lid and section prior to cutting and orient it accordingly. Next tip, make sure you have a fresh pack of sharp razors and change often. The razor will rip the carpet, rather than cut, as soon as it begins to dull.

We probably used 10 blades on our The last tip is only if you have never used contact cement before I hadn't before this project. It is very tempting to stick the pieces together too soon. That will kill the strength of the bond. You need to apply the contact cement to both surfaces and let it dry until it no longer "strings" to your finger when you touch it.

I typically let both sides dry for minutes before sticking together. I believe the can says to stick the pieces minutes after applying and that window held pretty accurate for us.

The contact cement is intimidating to use because of how careful you need to be, but it proved to be a godsend for us over the course of the whole project. That sounds like the route I was going to take, trowel on the large areas, and contact cement on bends, corners, etc.

What specific products did you use? I know the contact cement has good reviews on durability but I have not heard of anyone else using AAT Considering our carpet has been in for only a few days I obviously cannot speak to its durability over time but it seems like ok stuff.

Great job. I just joined by googling "restoring old bass boat" and came upon this article. I've inherited my Grandad's Kingfisher 17" fiberglass boat with a 90 Johnson.

It's been sitting on and off for 30 years so it needs full resto. Your restoration give's me hope for mine. Great job on yours and great tips on carpet laying. What did you do with the motor to get it going again?

The motor actually ran good without having to tinker with it. It just needed a paint job for cosmetics. My wife and I just had our first child two weeks ago, so no time for these types of projects for a while! I love this topic! Awesome job.

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