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duck boat plans in Hunting | eBay Welcome to Classic Barnegat Sneakboxes Where tradition, heritage, and history meet function, practicality, and value. Notice - Some internet browsers may not be able to properly open our new website we are providing both our old and new websites until this is corrected: New Classic Barnegat website. Original Classic Barnegat website. Boats. The Barnegat Bay Sneakbox. No other boat in production has the heritage, tradition, and history of the Barnegat Bay myboat274 boatplansally designed for the tidal marshes of New Jersey, this boat was designed as a low profile boat capable of being tucked into the salt grass and myboat274 boatplans was also capable of handling the rough water and bringing the waterman safely home. New Handmade Duck Boat. $2, Built from the lines of the Wood Canvas Duck Boat. 10? Wood Canvas Duck Boat built approximately $1, Very good condition. Sold. Barnegat Bay Sneakbox ; Custom Sneakbox viewed with hatch cover secured; 12? Barnegat Bay Sneakbox ; Custom Sneakbox viewed with grass rail and motor mount; Custom.
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I?used most the 60 grit?sanding front. Hook a block hardly as well as insert the straw. If we have been bustling with most alternative issues in your hold upessay spending not reduction than during a little indicate exploring a island in multiform methods.

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Originally designed for the tidal marshes of New Jersey , this boat was designed as a low profile boat capable of being tucked into the salt grass and disappearing.

It was also capable of handling the rough water and bringing the waterman safely home. When the ducks get decoy shy and afraid to land next to those big boxy boat blinds, pull into a clump of marsh grass, throw out a handful of high quality decoys, screw in your open choke tube, lay back and wait for some close gunning. The Barnegat Bay design has been around for over years for one reason: it works!

But for a very wide range of hunting the modified Barnegat Bay Sneakbox made in fiberglass comes about as close as could be hoped for.

I began fastening up forward and worked aft. Everything bent into place easily. No cracking sounds � and so no frayed nerves. The aft ends land over the rear flotation chambers. So, I fastened them with wood screws � rather than make a major job of excavating the foam to back them up.

The alone will likely do the job there. New rails were added to the foredeck and the stern deck. As I had done with the earlier South Bay, I extended the existing spray spray shield so that it was taller. I had made a bending jig for the earlier project � and had it stored up in the loft. In addition to an inner and outer skins of the biaxial that I used to patch the deck , I sandwiched in a layer of 2 mm Core Mat.

It is intended to add bulk and stiffness without much weight. All of these materials are compatible with either polyester or epoxy resins. I would have used the less-expensive polyester but it was too cold outside. The wood stove ensures thorough cures throughout the winter. I cover the jig with cellophane mailing tape. I trim the top and bottom edges on the table saw. I match the new dimensions and angles to the existing shield. I screwed it temporarily to the existing shield. The sides and rounded corners are cut on the band saw.

All new edges are sanded then sealed with epoxy. The old thatch rail needed to be made anew � and another was made for the upper extension.

Both were clamped onto the jig and glued up with epoxy. All hardware is brass machine screws. Round heads secure the 2 shields together; flat heads countersunk hold the thatch rails onto the shield.

All pieces are set in3M I used their Mahogany-colored product on this boat. All exposed threads are ground flat. It is important to use a sanding disk � and NOT an abrasive wheel � for non-ferrous metals like brass. The soft brass can clog grinding wheels, causing them to overheat and even fly apart.

After exhaustive wind tunnel testing and engineering analysis of the taller spray shield�. All my hardware uses nylon-insert lock washers � so vibration will not loosen things up. Most South Bays that I have seen use flap boards of one description or another.

I am guessing these are factory-original. I made new boards that were 8 inches tall and had two thatch rails. The second rail helps to keep the Salt Hay headed they way you want it. I filled the imperfections on the C side and coated everything with epoxy � twice! The mounting blocks were sawn from 2-inch Mahogany and made longer and beefier than the originals. The framing below decks had been applied somewhat asymmetrically. So, I could not space the fastener holes symmetrically � as I would normally do.

I had to mark the location of each lag for each of the blocks. As a result, the blocks are located on-the-money symmetrically on the decks � but are fastened from below. I had to use both long and short lags on each block. And � of course � each block was bedded in and backed with a fender washer.

Everything got sprayed with Rustoleum Self-etching Primer � and then the duckboat paint via brush. I used these rubber grommets as bumpers � to protect both the coamings and the cockpit hatch � as well as the boards themselves � when the boards are raised in gunning position. Only one was needed on each board. I could watch both the boards and the cockpit hatch as I drove the mostly highway miles to Long Island � and nothing moved a bit.

I first laid out the half-breadths � then used a batten to smooth out any lumps or bumps in the sweeping curve. A single fair line is marked for cutting � with both halves to be cut at the same time. An 8-foot length cannot get in or out of the cockpit.

Eighty-four inches is the maximum length. A circular saw � set fairly shallow � is a good tool to cut such long, gentle curves. Oblong ports for the 4 turnbuttons were cut while the 2 boards were still stacked and clamped. We will get there. Stay Safe. Thank You, Ron Bankes.

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