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Stream Tech Drift Boats - Accessories

Ready to aluminum drift boat trailer transport a wide range of boat sizes and types, our trailers are rigorously engineered to be a reliable, quiet and easy-to-tow compliment to your craft. Powder coating and galvanized finishes for attractive, lasting protection. Better handling via welded tubular design and adjustable axles.

Trailer squeak is eliminated with nylon double bushing springs. Reliability achieved by an aluminum drift boat trailer, sealed and fully grounded. Utility Marine Industrial. Measure the Transom-to-Bow-Eye Length boat-size-length. Measure the Bottom Width boat-size-width. Calculate Carrying Capacity Boat weight, including motor lb. Fuel capacity gal. Max passenger capacity.

Carrying capacity needed. Calculate Clear. Transom-to-Bow-Eye Length Under 13' 13'�13' 11" 14'�14' 11" 15'�15' 11" 16'�16' 11" 17'�17' 11" 18'�18' 11" 19' and Over.

Width at Bottom of Boat Under 56" " " 83" and Over. Carrying Capacity lb and Under � lb � lb � lb Over lb. Material Steel Aluminum. Filter selected. Boat Trailers See our complete boat trailer lineup, including detailed specs and key features. Download Product Overview.

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Have I done up my thoughts a accurate association for me?? Ok, as I'm an designer i drew a pieces in autocad as well as remade aluminum drift boat trailer tables to metrical complement.

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Removable Rear Storage. Sliding Fish Box. Pedestal Box Front or Rear. Pedestal Box Extensions. Walk Around Oarsman Storage Box. Oarsman Seat Tackle Boxes Pair. Knee Stanchion Front or Rear. Knee Lock Options. Movable Drink Holder. Weld-On Drink Holder. Raised Floor Boards. Full Width Floor. Sand Blasted Finish on Floors. Recessed Outboard Operator Seat. Bilge Pump. Exterior Vinyl.

Exterior Paint One Color. Exterior Paint Additional Colors. Seat Slides Installed. Seat Back Pad. Motor Wedge. Sliding Rod Holder. Spey Rod Holder. Seat Cushion. Anchor Nest. Flush Mount Anchor Nest. Drift Boat Anchors. The image attached shows overall deflection at the lb loaded condition. In the new trailer, I did want to incorporate two design changes from the original.

The first was a segmented rear roller system. The original trailer had a single long roller that didn't allow the boat to easily pivot during loading. In the new design I incorporated a series of 5 rollers that would rotate independently allowing the boat to more easily pivot while aligning the boat during loading.

The second change added diamond plate landings that would allow you to easily get in and out of the boat while it was loaded on the trailer. Other than these two advancements the new design was a very close replica of the original design.

For the first fabrication step I started by cutting the main frame components from steel tubing 2in x 3in 0. After cutting out the frame components, I laid them out to ensure a good fit. The initial step in welding together the frame is to weld the tongue to the first cross member. To do so, square the two components together the tongue is perpendicular to the first cross member , tack weld the components, recheck squareness, and then complete by welding around the mating surfaces of the two components.

Once complete, add the two cross angle support stiffeners. With the tongue welded together, it will be the basis of the rest of the trailer. Take time to ensure squareness and fit of these components, as the rest of the trailer will be based off of this initial assembly. Now that we have the trailer tongue assembled and welded together, we can layout the rest of the frame sections. You'll want to shim the entire frame up off the ground so that you'll be able to both clamp and level the full frame.

To shim the frame I used lumber to first get the structure off the ground, and then used small pieces of sheet steel ranging in thickness to shim up and down each corner of the frame.

Using a level, a square, and clamps, work your way throughout the frame shimming and positioning as needed to assemble and fixture the whole frame. Once you have the entire frame in position, cross tape both far corners from the tongue to ensure that the entire frame is square.

With the whole frame tightly clamped together, you can use a large hammer to adjust the frame such that you get the same measurement when cross taping between the tongue and far corners. Check your joints and recheck that the frame components are still in level. Then, work your way around the frame and tack weld the entire structure together. These tack welds should be large enough to hold the frame together, but not so heavy that you introduce a lot of heat in any single area.

Now that the frame is all tacked together, I would again check both level and squareness before fully welding it all together. If you are satisfied with the setup, now you can begin welding up the entire frame. To do so, you'll want to balance the heat across as much of the frame as possible to help prevent warping.

If you simply start welding in a single location and then work your way around the frame, you'll likely find that the frame has warped from heat. By welding a single seam and then moving to another location on the frame to start another weld, you will have distributed heat more evenly throughout the frame reducing overall warping.

You will want to continue this process around the whole frame until complete. At this point the main frame weldment is complete! Notice in the images above that I also added wire guides and ran lightweight cable through the assembly before welding it together.

These guides and cable will allow me to easily pull the wiring harness through the frame in my final assembly. Had I pulled the wiring harness through the frame tubes prior to welding, I could have melted or damaged them during the welding process. It's much easier in my opinion to run a cable and pull the wires through in the final assembly.

Now that the frame assembly is complete, we can locate and weld on the leaf spring front and rear hangers. The placement of these hangers is important, so you'll want to take extra care to ensure their location is correct before welding them to the frame.

If you remember we took extra care in measuring the exact placement of these hangers from the original trailer. Once we have them located, clamped, and welded in place we can flip the frame over and attach the axle. Before we flip the frame over, now is also a good time to add the tongue skid. This will save us from needing to flip the frame again later or from needing to weld from below.

Creating the components to mount and build the steps is where having a good CAD model really pays off. There are several components to create and getting them to fit together is quite easy since we're able to build them from the CAD geometry. The most difficult part of this assembly is creating the mates against the shaped fender. This made for a really nice fit that was easy to weld and blend together. If you don't have access to a CNC milling machine, not to worry, you can layout Aluminum Drift Boat Trailer Youtube directly on the material from your CAD design.

Then cut the shapes by hand using a saw, torch, or a cutoff wheel and then simply grid to fit. Taking time here to ensure a nice fit will certainly pay off in the overall aesthetics of the trailer.

To assemble the multi-segmented roller system, we first construct the 6 mounting tabs. The ends of the rod should be drilled to accept a hinge pin or cotter key. I had originally planned to have Aluminum Drift Boat Trailer 10 the trailer powder coated, however I found that due to the size the price was considerably more than I wanted to spend.

After all, this was just a simple trailer for fairly inexpensive boat. So, after doing some research online, I found that many have had good luck just using brush on Rust-Oleum.

To prep the trailer for paint, the task is to grind welds and any weld splatter that you want cleaned up prior to painting. This is a dusty and dirty job, so make sure you're dressed to get dirty. Once, the trailer is completely ground and free of any defects you will need to clean it with solvent. Xylene can be purchased at any paint store or home improvement center.

Be sure to read the warning before using, and make sure you're in a well ventilated place before using a solvent like this.

I prefer to do this kind of work outside. For paint, I chose brush on Rust-Oleum after doing some internet research on trailer painting options.

After a quick google search I found that many people had good luck with this approach. First I used the clean metal primer, which comes in white and has a bit of a chalky finish to it. One coat covered the trailer nicely, however I did do a little touch-up to the primer coat before painting with the protective enamel. After allowing the primer to dry, I applied two coats of the protective enamel.

I found it almost impossible to eliminate all runs when putting on enamel paint. However, I worried less about the runs and more about the protective finish. I coated the trailer very heavily in hopes that it will help me get years of lasting coverage. Overall the paint turned out really well, and the Protective Enamel has a very nice shine after it dries. Once the paint was dry, it's time for final assembly!

Only a few things to do here before we're complete. This is the first trailer I've created and found the whole job to be manageable and very rewarding. Hopefully you found this Instructable helpful and I would enjoy any feedback you might have. Reply 8 months ago. That's great, would love to see some images when you complete the project! Question 3 years ago on Step 3. I built a trailer for my sailboat years ago leaving the ends at the back open so it would drain and before painting I took it to one of those auto undercoating places and had them shoot undercoat into frame.

Still looks great. Dude great job. I was so jealous of all your tools and equipment until i saw the forklift being used to hold it for painting Your a pro and so out of my league.

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