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Aluminum Boat Restoration Aluminum Boat Trailer Crossmembers are made of solid Aluminum 3 x 3 Square Tubing and come in several lengths, ideal for replacing the rusted or broken crossmembers on your boat trailer, typically these can be bolted on for easy installation. myboat084 boatplans Brought to .
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The size, weight, and type of boat will have a bearing on how easy � or difficult � it is to remove it from the trailer. In my case, the boat was small and lightweight so I was able to pick a good spot in our yard, tilt the boat nose-high, and secure the boat while I pulled the trailer out from under it. On a previous occasion with a larger and heavier boat, I built a temporary cradle from treated pine to hold the boat while I rerigged the boat and rebuilt the trailer.

With the trailer free of the boat, strip all components from it and make a list of what you'll replace. In addition to taking photos, take measurements of where things like the axle, winch, bunks, or rollers, and any spare tire may go. For this project, I wanted to get the trailer back to just the frame and start from there. I removed the old rotten wooden bunks, the very rusty winch, the lights, and safety chains. The added benefit was that with these components removed, the bare trailer frame was much lighter and easier to handle.

I was able to singlehandedly flip the trailer to check the underside, something that would have been impossible with the wheels, springs, and axle in place. Much of the galvanized coating was in good condition, and the main structural members, I was pleased to note, were all in sound condition.

A thorough wire brushing to remove surface rust and scale was pretty easy, though messy and time-consuming. I followed this with a good acetone wipe to clean the surface and prepare it for me to spray cold galvanize paint on all the exposed areas. Some components, especially around the bunk mounts and light brackets, were pretty corroded and required cutting off with an angle grinder. Reassembly of the trailer was straightforward and quick.

I measured for the new bunks using the old ones as templates. Then I cut them from treated pine 2-by-6 boards and covered them with new carpet, which I glued with contact cement and stapled with stainless steel staples on the underside. To reattach bunks and other components, I used Grade 5 galvanized steel bolts and washers and Nylock locking nuts to eliminate rusting and rattling loose. With the new bunks and winch in place, I wired the trailer with new LED lights and wiring kit, taking care to use grommets and other insulating material where the wiring insulation might chafe.

After reinstalling the fiberglass fenders with new stainless bolts, we were ready to winch the boat back onto its trailer. With a couple of helpers to ensure it goes steadily, the process is much easier than it sounds. Many lighting kits come with these squeeze Scotch-Lok type of wiring connectors that don't stand up to regular dunking. Use waterproof crimp connections instead:. The old trailer was in a sorry state.

One of the first jobs was removing the old trailer bunks:. The dirtiest part of the job was removing the old rust prior to refinishing:. To protect the light wiring from chafe and keep everything neat, I used these clips, which require no drilling or alterations to the trailer:. In addition to the bunks themselves I replaced the severely corroded support brackets:.

I attached waterproof carpet to the bunks using contact cement and stainless steel staples:. Before hitting the road, double check all your work, make sure all bolts are tight, and bunks or rollers are well secured. If there is any possible issue, have a professional shop check it. Your trailer will probably be seeing highway duty, so it must be in good condition. In some states you may need to have your trailer inspected, so check with your local Department of Motor Vehicles for regulations in your area.

Often smaller trailers without brakes have less stringent requirements than larger twin- and triple-axle trailers capable of carrying heavy boats, but it always pays to check. We use cookies to enhance your visit to our website and to improve your experience. Membership Search. Service Locator. Get a Quote. Become a Member. Renew Membership. Boat Insurance Membership Boat Towing.

Boat Insurance. Each listing for Aluminum Crossmembers will have links to the Bolts and U Bolts section of our website so your can purchase the hardware to complete your install.

We have the U Bolts available in stainless steel also to prevent rust permanently. We would recommend using the Stainless Steel U-Bolts as Aluminum and Stainless Steel will provide the best level of corrosion protection.

You could used one or two U-Bolts per side, drilling holes up through the I-Beam if necessary, but in most cases when purchasing a replacement, the holes will already be present and in the correct location. The commonly used mounting hardware is included in this category for easy selection. Popular uses: Securing Skid Pads to Crossmembers. Great for Boat Trailers - Aluminum will not rust.

The lengths shown are based off industry standards and are designed with the V-Bend to prevent impacting the boats hull during un-loading and loading of the boat. If you are desired a slightly shorter length than shown, it would be recommended and suitable to cut down the length to the correct size.

Be sure to cut the same length off of each side to ensure an even fit under your trailer frame. The most common reason for replacing an Aluminum Cross Member with another Aluminum crossmember is due to Galvanized U-Bolts eating through the aluminum. To solve this issue, select Stainless steel U-Bolts for replacement, this will significantly prolong the life of your assembly.

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