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LockDry� Aluminum Boat Dock Decking | Flotation Systems Aluminum Boat Docks

Aluminum boat deck material in ' Materials ' started by leakyJan 16, Log in or Sign up. Boat Design Aluminum boat deck material. Hi, I've got a 16 foot Starcraft that I gutted and customized 10 years ago, made it into a nice little aluminum CC for the flats.

Was the 2nd similar hull I did actually other same year starcraft actually, just was a 21 foot. This allowed accommodating a fuel tank and batteries underneath. The deck did what you'd expect, 5 years later or so started taking up water, rotted. Sub-deck rodents tore all the foam into little shreds and made nests thinking I will make large foam blocks and add a layer of fiberglass around them this aluminum boat deck material. Transom and sub-deck pressure treated remains in perfect condition.

I've cleaned the thing out, ready to do it better this time. The only thing that doesn't work so well is it's not like a glass boat, Installing Casting Deck Aluminum Boat Windows basically I will end up cutting panels, removing and glassing panels, then fitting them back in, screwing them down, having problems with the fact they are slightly larger when finished, then top-coating once complete.

Totally do-able just alot of steps and shuffling parts. It would look nice with some sikkens and should last I think? May even be able to plane it down and shave some weight too, as I don't think I need the whole 1. Is the ceder thing a bad idea? Anything else lighter and fairly cost effective out there for what I'm doing? Thanks for any advice in advance! Cedar the same thickness as the plywood will be considerably lighter. This would be a good choice and it's readily available.

Forget about the PVC planks, they're not structural. Poplar is a poor wood choice as it will rot if you just talk about moisture. The hardwoods available at the big box stores will be red oak, which is much better than poplar, but still doesn't like moisture, plus it's heavy.

There's two types of exterior plywood; one says "Exposure 1 - Exterior", while the other says only "Exterior". You want the panel aluminum boat deck material says just Exterior. The Exposure 1 panels are water resistant, not aluminum boat deck material glued. Monsterliner is an option that works, but only if the the whole structure is coated, meaning if using plywood for example all sides and edges need to be painted with this goo.

Other wise, moisture will get into the wood from the uncoated side and work between the coating and the wood, eventually ruining the bond. Aluminum is another, not so cheap aluminum boat deck material practical option. Maybe some diamond plate with a few well selected bends, so it's stiff and fits.

You don't have to paint it, it's aluminum boat deck material going to react with the boat, like other materials, it's waterproof and light weight. Pick up some junk plate at a scrap yard, hit it with a buffer to pretty it up if you like and go for it. PARJan 16, Thanks - maybe ceder then!

Looking at Lowes I see I can get it in at least three sizes locally, 1. I'm going to pickup some samples today aluminum boat deck material see how strong the stuff is. This might work out really nice.

Fence stock usually is of pretty poor quality, unless you get posts and mill them down on a table or band saw. The way the deck supports run the biggest gap is around 20 inches.

I'm sure I could have done it with something thinner, and if I go plywood this time I certainly will, just at the time it took less consideration. I did vet out the aluminum idea; it's practical weight-wise, would be "final", and aside from a coat of bedliner, it would cut much of the process. There is a place locally I've been in that I think has some sheets that can be.

I've done alot Seaark Aluminum Deck Boat University of that and it just raises my blood pressure noise, the way the aluminum boat deck material work on it, I dunno just not my favorite thing to work with! Secondly though vetting it out I'm not sure if it's what I want to be standing and kneeling around on when the boat is finished and it creates alot of sharp edges mitigate. Still considering aluminum as an option though, I may also take a peek in the scrap yard tomorrow AM.

I weighed the planks out, 5. Anyway so splitting aluminum boat deck material worry about weight, the ceder is in the ballpark. Any recommendations on the best way to fasten and finish? My initial thought was screw them in with a little bit of dark colored caulking in between the boards use something that would not be softened once dry by oilsthen run a sander over the top to knock off any imperfections, then finish with Sikkens.

Maybe pre-coat the bottoms before fastening with that. Thanks, Jon. I wouldn't caulk the seams on cedar, unless it was quite rift and well laid.

If it was me, I'd soak my planking stock after cutting to size in a tub of water for a day or two. Remove when fully soaked and install with the edges pushed moderately tightly aluminum boat deck material, then fasten.

Let this dry and the boards will shrink up a bit, leaving some gaps. Unless you sink your boat, the planks will never get this wet again, so there will always be a slight gap at each plank edge, which will let water drain off and the boards can breath normally. As to treating the wood, well there's a few ways to go, Dutch oil will be the simplest and cheapest, but you'll need to apply more a couple of times a year.

Paint is an option and I'd paint all of the planking, not just the tops. Clear finishes are very difficult to maintain, unless a straight oil job, so pick you poison wisely. Use stainless sheet metal screws only on cedar and counter sunk clearance holes, so the planks don't split.

Cedar is soft in cross grain compression and will dent and wear away. A better choice for that would be Alaska Yellow Cedar. It is not as light but it is rot resistant and very tough and attractive if finished bright. You will have to go to a specialty cedar yard to find it, and it will cost more, but it will hold up much better if you expect a lot of wear on the surface.

You buy a plug cutting tool I bought mine at Lowes, most hardware stores have them and make the plugs from scarp stock. I use Tightbond III wood glue on the plugs, sanded and than finished over it with polyurethane floor finish.

Good luck. PetrosJan 16, Hi, Thanks for the input! A question on spacing of the planks. I'd actually rather have them be more water-tight, so the water escapes where I want it to. My current plan is to put a couple self bailing holes in the transom that can aluminum boat deck material plugged when I don't want them, ie for washing fish related mess out or if it gets a little rough and there is a possibility of taking water over the.

Additionally there will be a couple similar aluminum boat deck material in the deck ie remove plugs from transom, put in deck or vice versa. How would I best install Ceder planks to be fairly water-tight? The problem with cedar is it moves a lot expands with moisture content.

Caulked seams will not work unless the cedar planks are fairly thick and most importantly really rift sawn stock. Getting rift or vertical grain stock from the big box stores is all but imposable. This stuff will be flat sawn, which will be the worst stuff to hope for dimensional stability. Simply put, it'll spit out aluminum boat deck material caulked edges pretty quickly.

If you want to make cedar act like a solid surface, you'll have to edge glue it together, with epoxy, and encapsulate the whole thing, so the moisture content can be locked. This will add quite a bit of effort and cost to this project.

You'll pay as much in epoxy as you do the wood. Plywood is looking better and better isn't it? PARJan 17, Haha yes it might be. Will make a decision on that tomorrow and either start cutting out the plywood or compromise to remove the self bailing deck. For sure not going to bother with trying to seal Ceder in 2-part epoxy.

So more questions about plywood follow then. Any big reason aluminum boat deck material go with marine plywood if I'm going aluminum boat deck material 2-part epoxy? If I go the plywood route, you guys have any experience with the cheaper epoxies on aluminum boat deck material market like duckworks or raka?

Wondering how they fare curing in cold temperatures and how the blushing is only care about that because I'd like to gel coat for a finish, and an epoxy that blushes excessively is more likely to interfere with the polyester curing. The Silvertip viscosity and tendency not to develop crystals I like, plus comes in a fast hardener that will go off in seemingly any temperature.

Progressive or regular system III is OK a little thick and both tend to crystalizejust Aluminum Boat Deck Screws Usa is not sold in the size kit I need. I think for the quantity I need the 3 gallon kits raka or duckworks sells would be economical while still providing headroom for waste.

Jon, epoxy brands are all about the same in physical qualities. You really can't gelcoat over epoxy well you can, but it's not cheap or even gelcoatso you can skip this idea. The reason you use good plywood is to get a WBP glue. Only "Exterior" aluminum boat deck material "MDO" have this adhesive unless you get marine grade.

If you use plywood, you don't absolutely need epoxy, though most recommend it to help waterproof it. A good primer and paint will last years, if well cared for and it's cheaper .

I feel if your going to do it do it right. Thread starter fishlander Start date Oct 7, Do I seal the wood or leave it for a good bond. I just ordered my wood yesterday. No shipping costs. Appearance Deck sections are made from low weight, high strength extruded aluminum with a baked-on skid resistant finish. Warranty 12 years.

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Hey, as well as squeeze the code latest coupler as your kid grows. The carcass is tack-welded along with CA glue. How To Buy The Yacht So we have detected a undiluted vessel .

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