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Cope Aluminum Boat Designs PARTICULARS: LOA - Ft ( Meters) Beam - Ft ( Meters) Draft: 18" (45 Cm) Molded depth at Transom - 34? ( Cm) Deadrise - 18 deg. Crew - 5 Displacement: Light Ship (Trailer Weight/No Cargo) - Lbs / Kg Fully Loaded - 15, Lbs / Kg Cargo Capacity - Lbs / Kg Max Power - Outboard HP Twin HP - 32 Knots Twin HP - 42 Knots (Est.) CE . Building our boats is more boat assembly than boat building - all you need is good working knowledge of fitting and welding aluminum. Simple assembly drawings are provided as part of the kit. All our major hull structures components are designed and calculated to conform to the requirements of ABS(American Bureau of Shipping). Design for. Save $s by building your dream boat with only a few tools and a little sweat equity. We are your one stop shop for customizable aluminum boat kits.
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See our Online Store for additional publications on aluminum construction. Please see our Online Store for all the Glen-L designs available for aluminum construction. The following can be used as a general guideline for selecting materials. However, the listing is not necessarily all encompassing nor given in order of preference. To figure hull cost, use weight of hull times cost per pound. For further information on welding, see WeldingTipsandTricks.

The number of people with aluminum welding skills and access to fabricating equipment has increased considerably over the years. Yet many are unaware of fundamental considerations confronting the short-handed amateur building a single boat for his own account.

The would-be do-it-yourself aluminum boatbuilder already familiar with aluminum often has his roots in a non-marine production fabrication setting. Thus there may be a tendency to want to apply mass-production techniques to the construction of just a single boat. But building a single boat yourself is considerably different from one built on a production line, and thus may require certain adjustments and even a revised mind set on the part of the builder.

First, there is no one, superior way to build an aluminum boat. In fact, there can be many suitable approaches and variations. Consider the following. Because production builders are always thinking up ways to cut labor and material costs, and time required to build boats, they evolve specialized methods and materials that help toward these ends even if there is not necessarily any improvement in the boat itself.

For example, they may use special proprietary extrusions to expedite some assembly process such as joining side and bottom plating at the chine see Fig. Alternately, your chines might then be backed with a simple round bar Fig. None of these methods is necessarily superior, but just different due to circumstances.

Also, production builders often make up sophisticated re-usable production jigs over which pre-cut hull panels are assembled and welded first. These jigs may also rotate to facilitate high-speed welding, with internal members added after the hull is removed from the jig. In either case, end results are much the same and with comparable boat quality.

Using a frame substructure for setting up your hull has several advantages for the do-it-yourselfer typically working alone. First the frame substructure makes it easy to assure hull accuracy that is so important to ultimate performance in a powerboat. Factory production boatbuilders often use specialized forming equipment not always available to amateurs, or use forming services that might be provided by metal suppliers when quantity requirements are high. Conversely, a design for the do-it-yourself builder would more likely specify internal longitudinal stiffeners i.

Either method gets the job done but the latter is easier and cheaper for most building their own boats. First, a disclaimer. But in reality few do-it-yourselfers want to pay the price for the service. But steel is considerably heavier than aluminum, so boats designed for steel are usually designed for greater displacement. The consequences for a semi- or full-planing powerboat might be so much the better since the lighter aluminum boat will need less power and fuel.

But in converting slower displacement-type powerboats from steel to aluminum, you might need to add ballast into such a boat done in aluminum to bring it back down to its original lines. This may place the center of gravity too far below that of its steel brethren and result a snappy, jerky motion. So instead, you may want to place some of the added weight higher up.

Aluminum is not as strong as steel so some compensations must be made if using it in place of steel. Without getting too technical, with aluminum used for shell plating e.

Put another way, to get the same strength as steel in an aluminum hull, it needs to be approximately half the weight of steel. More important is how the two perform under repeated fatigue loading stress cycles alternating between tension and compression. Tests show that for a similar number of cycles, steel stays above its yield strength threshold. In other words, it is more likely to fail due to fatigue over time, an important consideration for boats subject to such conditions i.

But by how much? Converting from steel to aluminum is fairly straight-forward mainly because the members used are much the same in configuration and the methods of design and construction are similar.

And while there are standards-making organizations e. Consider plating thickness. On the steel boat, this is more often based on the practical minimum necessary to ward off corrosion over time, provide decent welds, and a thickness adequate to minimize unsightly deformation.

Thus 10GA. And in most cases this increase applies mostly to thickness alone as is listed in Fig. An operating premise is that steel boats in the size range discussed are almost always stronger than is necessary; this due to the nature of the material, for reasons previously noted, and the fact that the shape of most boats adds strength in and of itself, and often where it does the most good such as in the bow.

So using the example, 10GA. In other words, multiply the thickness of the steel member by a factor of from 1. Tip: Start with 1. The point is, many alternatives can be used to build an aluminum boat with largely the same results in terms of strength, durability, etc.

In the above and referring to Fig. First, the extra strength that a Aluminum Boat Building Plans Uk shaped member would provide in the steel boat is simply redundant in the size boats discussed; it would just add weight, cost, and complexity. Second, shaped members add to the difficulties of inspection, maintenance, and corrosion protection in the steel boat; for example, the ability to see and coat the underside flanges is difficult, especially when such members are small. However, in the aluminum boat in Fig.

But there are several reasons for using shaped members, especially for longitudinal stiffeners. First, such members are stronger. Or put another way, you could have the same strength in a lower-profiled shape than with flat bar. And the added strength in the aluminum boat is a plus. Another benefit might be more usable interior volume. They tend not to be so floppy, and bend more uniformly than flat bar.

The downside is that extrusions cost more than flat bar or the sheet stock one can use to make flat bars, and may not be readily available at least in the size you want.

If working from stock plans for an aluminum boat, the designer probably specified certain sizes, types, and alloys of members for framing, etc. But deviations may be possible. Most designs have some latitude in alternates that can be substituted. Channels can be made from split square or rectangular tubing, or even split pipe if somewhat larger than the specified channel.

You could even fabricate your own sectional shapes from built-up flat bar. Then too, if members are not available in one size, perhaps one the next size up will suffice. However, you should always consider the consequences of added weight that such a change might make.

Conversely, it is probably better to avoid downsizing to a smaller member as the opposite alternative. To the novice, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available. But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the so-called marine alloys in the and series, the latter typically being extrusions. Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives. But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H However, the designer may have already taken this into consideration if is specified.

Corrosion resistance for the alloys listed above is excellent in all cases. The material has good corrosion resistance also and is commonly used for extruded shapes. Early aluminum boats were often made with closely-spaced transverse frames with few, if any, longitudinals, a carry-over from traditional wood boatbuilding no doubt.

However, the amount of welding required and the ultimate heat build-up caused considerable distortion and weakening of the skin. The more enlightened approach used today emphasizes longitudinal stiffeners fairly closely spaced with these crossing more-widely spaced transverse frames only as required to maintain hull shape. In fact, some smaller welded aluminum boats may need few if any frames at all, especially where bulkheads may serve double duty.

The preferable approach is for transverse frames not to make contact with the shell plating other than perhaps at limited areas along the chine or keel. About the only case where a transverse bulkhead needs to make continuous plating contact is if it is intended to be watertight.

Even then, such a practice tends to distort the plating and is often readily visible on the outside of the boat. In short, general practice is to NOT weld plating to transverse frames or bulkheads even if such members touch or come near the plating. The chine is the junction between the bottom and side on a v-bottom or flat bottom boat. On high-speed planing boats, this corner should be as crisp are possible, especially in the aft half of the hull.

The reason is that water should break free from the hull to reduce frictional drag at speed, and not climb up the topsides.

As shown before, Fig. Otherwise, a backing member is largely optional. If a special extrusion as discussed before is available, these are acceptable. Side and bottom plating fit into the slots which are then welded continuously. From an appearance standpoint, a continuous inside weld looks best. However, such extrusions are often proprietary items or otherwise prohibitive in cost, and a problem to buy and ship in small quantities. Completing the ends of such extrusions where they join to transom and stem areas is also not always easy for the builder making a single boat.

The downside is that detailed cutting is limited to the size of the end mill being used. As most boat designs have been designed for a CNC router, this is not normally an issue unless there is an operator error.

While a router is a great option, a bit of cleanup might be required. I found some interference issues in the joints of my jig, which required me to get in there with a little file and take out the cutter radius to make the jig fit correctly. This is bad. Got it!? Ok good. Well, if you can afford a pulse mig machine, this is what you want. Professional boat builders will only use this kind of machine.

However, they cost your first born child to buy, so maybe see if you can rent one for your build. If a pulse mig is not an option, you need a spool gun for your welding machine. They are reasonably priced and most major manufacturers make them. You will need exceptional welding skills to use a standard spool gun though. Practice your different welds. Avoid burning through. I have been welding for 17 years and completely burned through my first boat.

Even better, hire a friend with boat-building skills. Have them go over the welding techniques with you. You will thank us later for this. The design files come with a jig. I chose to put mine on some custom-built sawhorses. We leveled our sawhorses with a laser, bolted them to the floor, bolted the jig to the sawhorses and then tack-welded the boat to the jig.

Some builders choose not to tack weld the jig. The primary idea behind back step welding is to eliminate distortion as much as possible. This is very important. Weld towards the middle of the boat, but sequencing your welds out for the middle. See diagram. Try to keep the heat from being concentrated in one area for too long. My designer stressed the importance of this process. Follow the incremental back step process.

This one is easy. Unless you have experience or access to some expensive machines, you are going to regret it. I certainly did on my first build. After about eight hours of sweating profusely from manual tube bending, I will never do this again.

Yes, you could heat the aluminum with a torch and make things easier. Talk to the motor manufacturer and determine the best operating height of the motor. Not doing so could damage your motor or greatly reduce the performance. We hope these tips will help successfully build your first aluminum boat. Take these lessons from us, and get a specialist or a friend with the preferred experience to assist you. We can do it for you! Learn more about our custom-built aluminum boats here.

Please note: Thank you for visiting our site and we appreciate your patronage. We have made every reasonable effort to present accurate information on our blog; however, we are not responsible for any of the results you experience while visiting.

By using this blog you understand that there is no liability held to Adventure Marine. The blog should not be used as a substitute for competent professional advice from a licensed professional in your province. It was long overdue 47 years to be exact. Adventure Marine has never manufactured boats. Even though we have been building high-quality marine products since It is time to write a new chapter in our companies history and bring to market something special.

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